New DPS-M and Transom Assembly

[bajaunderground]

So...

I purchased my Cobalt from a guy in Chicago back in November. I water tested it and it ran and shifted like it should. Where I store it I noticed a little puddle of red fluid behind/under the transom...no big deal, I looked and there was small leak it the hose fitting that goes into the transom shield manifold...

In order to get to them the shop had to pull the drive, no big deal, right? It would not budge, after many attempts to separate the gimbal housing from the drive (heat, penetration oil, using rams) nothing... so he separated the gimbal housing from the transom assembly and broke out the side of the gimbal housing.

Upon inspection, there was some slight indicators of water infiltration in the drive shaft/u-joint bellows; however, the u-joints and gimbal bearing looked okay and moved as they should. The bellows were dry-rotted and looked old...called the PO and he claims his marina did all the servicing & winterization and that they should've pulled the drive every season to check bellows, gimbal and parts...he was pissed as well. Paint me skeptical on him having them do all the servicing. Considering the hours on the boat (259), the bellows looked original?

Due to the corrosion/pitting on the transom assembly, rams and gimbal housing the hoses are all but impossible to remove...couple with the fact that all the aluminum parts look like hammered dogs***. Rather than just purchase the broken housing, I've concluded to just replace all the parts (transom shield assembly and drive).

NEW TRANSOM ASSEMBLY: $3,699.00
REMANUFACTURED DRIVE: $6,500.00 (my drive assembly will not core based on it's condition). I'm considering a used, pressure tested drive for $2,500.00

Plus all the labor to "pull the original drive", transom assembly but before they pull the those, he has to pull the engine.

MORAL OF THE STORY: I'm an idiot, I should've asked to see all the service records and probably pulled the drive on the spot.

The good news is the rest of the boat is in excellent shape and in my opinion, worth putting the new drive and transom assembly on. Has anyone seen my vaseline?

 

[JustJason]

MORAL OF THE STORY: I'm an idiot, I should've asked to see all the service records and probably pulled the drive on the spot.

Moral of the story.... You should have hired a mechanic/surveyor to go through the boat for you before you even thought about making an offer on it.

 

[bajaunderground]

Moral of the story.... You should have hired a mechanic/surveyor to go through the boat for you before you even thought about making an offer on it.

Agreed...I thought my expertise (minimal) was enough to judge good vs chitty...it's only money and biz is good right now, so I'll just put off the basement remodel until next month...there is a price for stupid, luckily, it is pro-rated!

Cheers!

 

[JustJason]

...there is a price for stupid, luckily, it is pro-rated!

Lol.... That's a great line.

 

[Lou C]

I'd say that either no maintenance or little was done, because I haven't had to do that to my old '88 Cobra and it's been moored in salt water 6 months each season for 15 years worth. But the maintenance was always done every season including pulling the drive etc.
I/Os are high maintenance by their nature. Low maintenance you have to go outboard.
And when I hear people say that salt water is so much worse than fresh water well, that's not always true. Another point: the Volvo SX design was based on the OMC Cobra. When the SX was designed they eliminated the gasket between the drive and the pivot housing that was used on the Cobra. This is part of the problem. When you re install the Cobra drive you coat both sides of that gasket and the threads on the mounting studs with OMC gasket sealer. That prevents the drive from getting seized to the pivot housing. Even in salt water mine comes right off every time. On the Volvo you need to coat the area where the drive meets the pivot housing with OMC triple guard grease. If this is done and the drive is removed regularly it will not seize to the pivot housing. In my opinion they should have continued using the gasket to prevent metal to metal contact.

 

[bajaunderground]

No Title

 

[Glevans1]

Hey, your new parts look great. Good luck with the rebuild. Is that DPS-M drive in the photo the remanufactured product you mentioned for $6500? Just asking because I recently purchased the same drive new from Volvo. Happily, my insurance covered the cost (less deductible) after I had a low speed prop strike that broke off one of the lower pinion gear teeth. Here on the West Coast of Canada, the price without labour but including taxes came to over $11,000. This was on my 2001 Skagit Orca.

 

[dypcdiver]

Just for your info, the trim cylinders shown are a lot older than the drive. It might just matter if you ever need spares etc.

 

[bajaunderground]

Hey, your new parts look great. Good luck with the rebuild. Is that DPS-M drive in the photo the remanufactured product you mentioned for $6500? Just asking because I recently purchased the same drive new from Volvo. Happily, my insurance covered the cost (less deductible) after I had a low speed prop strike that broke off one of the lower pinion gear teeth. Here on the West Coast of Canada, the price without labour but including taxes came to over $11,000. This was on my 2001 Skagit Orca.

No, this was a used unit (pressure tested and lash checked) out of California for $2,500. I was gonna go with the remanufactured, but for $4,000 difference...I'll take that chance. My old outdrive is worthless from a core standpoint (the case is pitted and ground-down); however, the internals are in excellent shape. I'll hold onto it for a few years, just in case.

 

[bajaunderground]

Just for your info, the trim cylinders shown are a lot older than the drive. It might just matter if you ever need spares etc.

I'm not an expert, but the boat shop I purchased them from verified part numbers...will they work with mine? I was under the impression that the years 1997-2004 were all interchangable? My existing cylinders are in decent shape; however, they will require some patience and persuasion to get the compression hose fittings out...which I will work on over time?

 

[bajaunderground]

The transom assembly and drive are on...I need to bleed the cylinders and then she should be good?! I ordered new paint and decals and will clean it up, repaint and re-decal...

All said and done:

Transom Assmbly: $1,000.00
Complete Outdrive: $2,500.00 (+$156.00 shipping)
New Transom Seal: $19.99
Shop:?? I'm guessing $1,600.00-$2,000.00 (labor and parts: seals, bellows, etc...)

Total: $5,355.00-$5,755.00 <---

 

[bajaunderground]

VS.

 

[bajaunderground]

Was able to get out on the water (Lake Pueblo) last Saturday, all in all the boat ran very well! Had a slight overheating issue when we were idling out of the marina/launch area (reached 190˚ F) once we got underway, she stayed at ~175˚ F. I've ordered a new thermostat and new impeller (was told it was replaced when winterized...based on everything else, paint me skeptical?). With a little trim I got her up to 49mph on the dream-o-meter. Once you add people, fuel and gear, she's not as "spry" as she was when I tested her in November. Currently she has F6 props...I'm gonna order F5's...she was run at 880' Above Sea Level, I run at 4,880'-6,200' so I think I'll see the better hole shot?

She's a smooth ride for sure!