New Engine Block Break-In

[LuvBoating]

Just got our 1992 Celebrity 200 Cuddy back with a new long block in it. The carb has been rebuilt w/new plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor, belts and alternator. The manifolds/risers are a year old.
I've been reading that the break-in time is approx. 20 hrs. The mechanic who installed the new block put 3 hours on the new block & meter on the water. I was told that at 10 hrs, I will need an oil change. I was also told to monitor (very closely) the oil level on the stick and add when needed. I read not to take the boat above 2,300 rpms for the first 10 hrs. The mechanic told me that he had the boat at 2,800 rpms (on plane). The highest mph we've had the boat is approx 28 mph. We are in our early-to-mid 60's and don't fly down the water like some folks do..........BUT, were told that we do need to go full-throttle once in a while for a short time to clean out the carb.
So, just how much TLC do we need to do with this new block?
Any advice/comments on this break-in thing?
Thanks
BTW: We are "fair-weather" boaters, so we don't take our boat out all the time. Some things have to be near perfect, as in the wind speed, rain/t-storm forecast, high heat and OF COURSE tides.

 

[Don S]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Here are the recommendations from a 2010 Mercruiser owners manual.

20‑Hour Break‑In Period

IMPORTANT: The first 20 hours of operation is the engine break‑in period. Correct break‑in is essential to obtain minimum oil consumption and maximum engine performance. During this break‑in period, the following rules must be observed:

• Do not operate below 1500 RPM for extended periods of time for the first 10 hours. Shift into gear as soon as possible after starting and advance the throttle above 1500 rpm if conditions permit safe operation.
• Do not operate at one speed consistently for extended periods.
• Do not exceed 3/4 throttle during the first 10 hours. During the next 10 hours, occasional operation at full throttle is permissible
(5 minutes at a time maximum).
• Avoid full throttle acceleration from idle speed.
• Do not operate at full throttle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
• Frequently check engine oil level. Add oil as needed. It is normal for oil consumption to be high during the break‑in period.

BUT, were told that we do need to go full-throttle once in a while for a short time to clean out the carb.

I don't think that is necessary, a new fuel filter will keep the carb clean.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

The only thing that needs "breaking in" is the rings to the cylinder wall.

So it depends totally on how the cylinder walls were finished (grit of the stones) and what kind of rings were used.

Follow the instructions that should have come with the Engine. If it didn't come with any, call them!

Sometimes with the auto hones, dwell meters and fine stones and brushes used today not much "break in" is necessary.

Its probably a roller cam... but if it had a flat tappet cam that would have a break in procedure as well.

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Was able to finally get the boat out on the water yesterday, unfortunately we have a water leak coming from somewhere.

While returning to the ramp and going around 2,500 rpms, I let my wife steer while I checked the bilge area for water. It looked like the area was full, so I turned on the bilge pump (new one installed when new block was put in) and the water was lowering. My wife looked and could see water coming out of the boat. I shut the pump off, took over steering so my wife could take a look and she could see water coming up in the bilge area again, but neither of us could see where it was coming from. At that time she was getting worried and thought about heading for shore, but I lowered the speed to around 2,000 rpms and turned the pump onto "auto" for a couple of minutes or so. I then turned the pump off and we arrived at the No Wake Channel area leading to the ramp. Got to the ramp, tied up and I ran the pump again and some water came out and then stopped. I looked in the bilge area and couldn't see anymore water, so shut of the pump and went and got the trailer. Put the boat on the trailer and drove into a parking spot to prepare the boat for travel. I took out the stern drain plug and a bunch (seemed like gallons) of water came out..........much more than should. My wife told me the bilge area below the cuddy cabin must have been pretty full and that would drain out until we were on an incline and the drain plug was taken out. She told me then, "we definitely have some type of water leak with this much water coming out". And, btw, we also found out that our Trim Position Switch is broken in the "up" position. The Trim Gauge pointer was stuck in the "up" position the entire time we were on the water.

So, today we done two water checks: Put the stern plug in and put water into the bilge area to see if we could see a leak outside......no leak that we could see. Put the muffs on the drive, started the engine to see if we could see a leak inside the engine area.......no leaks there either that we could see.

Due to finances, we are going to have to wait a few weeks before we can take the boat into a Mercruiser Dealer. We don't want to take it back to the mechanic that installed the block........had way to many problems with him. I've already got a Thread/Topic on the Forum area about him and the problems we encountered.
Suggestions/Comments

 

[fotto]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

It appeared in your mechanic thread you were VERY eager to get your boat back, yet it took you over two months to get her into the water? I'm just finding that a bit curious as I would have wanted to make sure the repair work was in good order pretty shortly afterwards.

 

[MarkSee]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

So, today we done two water checks: Put the stern plug in and put water into the bilge area to see if we could see a leak outside......no leak that we could see. Put the muffs on the drive, started the engine to see if we could see a leak inside the engine area.......no leaks there either that we could see.

You did not quite mention if you raised the bow up when you did the water in bilge check but that's how we found that my garboard unit was leaking and the screws themselves were not sealing properly.

Here's what your can try in case you have not:
Put the drain plug back in then fill bilge with as much water as you can without the pump coming on or disable the pump
Chock the trailer tiress
Raise the drive up as far as possible then SAFELY and SLOWLY raise the trailer tongue as high as possible using floor jack, 2x6, blocks, etc. for added lift.

See if any water comes out from the garboard, around the transom seal of the drive, or basically anywhere.

Mark

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Yes, we unhooked the trailer/boat from our vehicle and raised the bow all the way up (as far as it would crank up), had the bilge pump off, used hose and put water into the bilge area and I got off of the boat and checked the drive seal with my wife........saw no water leaking at all. Left the bow up and took the drain plug out and a good amount of water came out so we then knew that we filled the bilge area with water pretty full.

You did not quite mention if you raised the bow up when you did the water in bilge check but that's how we found that my garboard unit was leaking and the screws themselves were not sealing properly.

Here's what your can try in case you have not:
Put the drain plug back in then fill bilge with as much water as you can without the pump coming on or disable the pump
Chock the trailer wheels
Raise the drive up as far as possible then SAFELY raise the trailer tongue as high as possible using floor jack, 2x6, etc. for added lift.

See if any water comes out from the garboard or around the transom seal of the drive.

Mark

 

[QC]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Sounds a lot like a potential u-joint bellows leak to me. Wouldn't take on water on muffs. And wouldn't show up outside at drain plug etc unless you filled the bilge up to the level of the coupler.

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Yes, we were VERY eager to get our boat back, but due to weather conditions and colds (we had) we weren't able to get the boat out on the water nearly as fast as we wanted to. We will now wait a couple of months and take the boat to the Mercruiser Dealer for a "look-at" and repair of any water leak and the Trim Position Switch. The Dealer's labor charge goes down towards the end of Dec. We also have a weekend trip, to see my wife's brother, in Dec and want to use finances for that. Will talk to the mechanic that installed the new block, etc., but won't take the boat back to him!

It appeared in your mechanic thread you were VERY eager to get your boat back, yet it took you over two months to get her into the water? I'm just finding that a bit curious as I would have wanted to make sure the repair work was in good order pretty shortly afterwards.

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Would the bellows be wet on the outside if that is what is leaking? After raising up the drive, we looked at both bellows (what we could see/feel of them) and no wetness.

Sounds a lot like a potential u-joint bellows leak to me. Wouldn't take on water on muffs. And wouldn't show up outside at drain plug etc unless you filled the bilge up to the level of the coupler.

 

[QC]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Would the bellows be wet on the outside if that is what is leaking?

On muffs or after pulling out of the water? I am not sure how the outside of the bellows could be dry after pulling out of the water. On muffs either. There's an awful lot of splashing going on ...

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

We didn't do either of the "water checks" until the next day (yesterday/Sunday). I didn't even read about bellows leaking water until Saturday night on the internet. While we had the drive down (close to touching the payment at the storage facility), we couldn't see the bellows while the muffs were on, water on and engine running. After we shut the water off and raised the drive we looked at the bellows and they looked dry to us. Later this week will run the engine with the muffs on/water on and run the engine. After that, we will shut of the water, lift the drive up and inspect the bellows again.

On muffs or after pulling out of the water? I am not sure how the outside of the bellows could be dry after pulling out of the water. On muffs either. There's an awful lot of splashing going on ...

 

[QC]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Bellows are not going to "leak" while on muffs. The bellows only keeps water OUT of the boat. There is not supposed to be water inside the bellows ever. So the only way the bellows can leak water into the boat is when it is in the water

 

[Mdinz]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Is water getting in it when it runs on the muffs? If it was not leaking before the engine was replaced, it stands to reason that the leak has something to do with the replacement. Start with the basics - check all the drain plugs on the block and manifolds, plus make sure all of the hoses are on and the clamps are tight. Look in a manual and find the location of all your drain plugs and hoses. It's hard or impossible to see the block drains on a lot of boats, so get a mirror and a flashlight and look at everything while it's off and while it's running. It's way too easy to make a major project out of something, when all you have is a simple problem. You would be amazed at how much water can come out of a missing 1/4" pipe plug. The best part about this is it does not cost you anything but a few minutes of time.

Mark

 

[MarkSee]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Is water getting in it when it runs on the muffs?

In his post at 7:53 pm last night he did say:
"Put the muffs on the drive, started the engine to see if we could see a leak inside the engine area.......no leaks there either that we could see."

So that would indicate it's an issue with water intruding into the bilge from outside the boat while it's afloat and not water exiting from the engine itself as QC is indicating.

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Orginally the engine was going to be replaced due to petcocks leaks on the engine and then we found out that we had a bent rod as well. As far as me doing anything to this engine, I am NOT a boat mechanic in any shape or form. I can check the oil and power steering levels, clean the fire thingy on top of the carb, but that is it. Heck, all I do today with our vehicles is check/fill the oil and power steering levels, check/fill anti-freeze and change air filters. I read on the Internet how to do two water leak test and wife and I done those two and didn't see any water leaks.
The rest I will have to leave up to a boat mechanic to check out and repair.

Is water getting in it when it runs on the muffs? If it was not leaking before the engine was replaced, it stands to reason that the leak has something to do with the replacement. Start with the basics - check all the drain plugs on the block and manifolds, plus make sure all of the hoses are on and the clamps are tight. Look in a manual and find the location of all your drain plugs and hoses. It's hard or impossible to see the block drains on a lot of boats, so get a mirror and a flashlight and look at everything while it's off and while it's running. It's way too easy to make a major project out of something, when all you have is a simple problem. You would be amazed at how much water can come out of a missing 1/4" pipe plug. The best part about this is it does not cost you anything but a few minutes of time.

Mark

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Thanks for this info. Now we won't have to check the bellows for leaking any more. Will end up taking the boat to the Mercruise Dealer in a couple of months for a "look-see" of water leaks and possible repair and replacement of the Trim Position Switch.

Bellows are not going to "leak" while on muffs. The bellows only keeps water OUT of the boat. There is not supposed to be water inside the bellows ever. So the only way the bellows can leak water into the boat is when it is in the water

 

[QC]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

I am not sure we are communicating.

1) the u-joints bellows can absolutely cause water to enter the boat. And a LOT.
2) You can't check for a leak while on muffs.
3) They can be inspected, but that would not 100% eliminate it.
4) You can see it easily if in the boat if you know what you are looking for and the boat is in the water.

 

[LuvBoating]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

We (wife/I) understand you. We know that it can still be the bellows, but, pretty much without a doubt, we wouldn't know what to look for when the boat was in the water. I have past experience working on vehicles, my own that is (they were old vehicles with no computer in them), but boat engine stuff is pretty much out-of-my-league.

We do know that we've never/ever seen much water in our bilge area before we got that petcock leak in June.

And, the only times we've seen a lot of water come out of our transom drain hole (directly under the drive) was:
#1. Before we bought a full cover for the boat (last year) and it rained hard. We've always had our deck cover on it when it was sitting in our outside storage spot, but we didn't have the hull sitting up high enough on the trailer to allow the rain water to drain out.
#2. Had a lot of water come out of the of the transom drain hole after we got towed back to the ramp after having that petcock water leak in the engine in June.
#3. This last Saturday when we got back to the ramp, put the boat on the trailer and took the it to a parking spot (incline), took out the transom plug and a lot of water came out them. To me, almost as much as when we had the petcock water leak happen, but my wife said to me "no, not as much as then". Wife told me, "must have been a lot of water under the cuddy cabin floor and it didn't drain out b/c the hull wasn't high enough for it to while on the water." Sounded logical to me.

I am not sure we are communicating.

1) the u-joints bellows can absolutely cause water to enter the boat. And a LOT.
2) You can't check for a leak while on muffs.
3) They can be inspected, but that would not 100% eliminate it.
4) You can see it easily if in the boat if you know what you are looking for and the boat is in the water.

 

[QC]

Re: New Engine Block Break-In

Ahhhhh #3 was where I was headed next. So it is possible all of this water was already in the boat prior to launch?