Before taking it apart while its on the lake and temp is getting up in the 190 range- take the hose off the thermostat housing where water comes up from the drive. There is a merc procedure with more detail but basically should get 3-4 qts in 15 seconds. Would also look for bubbles indicating air or more likely exhaust gas is being pulled in.
they are new manifolds. I will be flushing EVERYTHING again today. backward and forward.. it was acting Better" after putting in the new stat but it did still got hot so ?
it over heated on the hose before replacing the t stat. and in a poor test the old stat dID open in a pan on the stove. although i didn't have a working thermometer and it didn't open til the water was almost at a boil so that didn't rreally tell me squat. another day flushing and testing and I will see. if no progress then I will split the drive and re seal the base plate and pump.
It seems to be.
sorry I read that wrong. it got over heat hot on the hose before changing the stat. and ithen t ran cool for at least 15 min at idle putting around near the ramp. even under way slowly. it didn't rise til after a few minutes at about 3200 rpm then once hot it didn't want to cool.
Do some testing first - if you have the volume at the thermostat and there are no bubbles then there is no reason to split the drive again.
I asked the same in post #25, my dash gauge says the engine runs too cool but I don't fully trust the gauge so will be installing a completely independent 2nd gauge. Don't want to take the thread off track but I'm wondering how/where to fit the sender for the 2nd gauge, I already have a sender and digital display to suit but the sender uses short M6 threads. Wonder if I should drill and tap the inlet manifold and if so where on the manifold (carb'd SBF). The overheat / low oil pressure buzzer doesn't work anyway, maybe I should remove the overheat sender and make an adapter so the new sender can fit where that was fitted.
Thee shouldn’t be air mixed with the water might be from muffs but would make me think pump is pulling in exhaust gas unless you do not have enough supply volume or pressure.
This could be an important piece. your manifolds and elbows are fed separately (Warm manifold system). The elbows will get water supplied at all times so exhaust get cooled when the thermostat is not open. Your set up is a little differnt than mine. I have a T on top of the thermostat housing that has two spring loaded balls that restrict the flow to the elbows. If they stick open too much raw water will bypass the block and go right overboard via the exhaust. You have to have some type of similar set up so that raw water get diverted into the block when thermostat is open
The biggest issue here is, I did the engine swap 9 almost ten years ago.
