Re: New Force Tilt motor leaking where line is
I am guessinf RRitt will be around to answer soon enough. There are a couple of products you can try prior to tapping but all require EXTREME care.
The simplest one, if the threads are there but worn that I have used with some success is a product from Permatex:
It is available at Ace hardware for around $12.00. It is a 2-part epoxy that you mix and apply and then use a supplied thread release agent on an appropriate sized fitting and thread it in when the putty is setting but not hardened. Leave it for a day and remove it and clean the interior. You have to be careful not to obstruct the seat or the orifice.
Then there's JB weld. Pretty much the same scenario.
There's also a product called Alumiweld. I got some from Harbor Freight. I think it was around $8.00. The Permatex worked for me on my old Rude tilt unit so I never used the Alumiweld. It's a brazing rod you use with a propane or mapp torch. You are supposed to heat the surface as though you were soldering and then touch the rod to the surface. Then while it is still molten you thread in a fitting. I would be afraid of this because you A) have to disassemble the valve body completely so you don't melt any seals inside it. And B) I would be afraid to warp the aluminum and then you have much bigger issues.
As far as drilling and tapping it depends on if you have a line that is long enough that you can cut it and re-flair it (has to be double flaired). You absolutely can not use a compression fitting. What you need is an adapter taht will go from the standard nut for the tube size you have up to the next nut size. The adapter on the line side will have to have the appropriate flare. Then you can thread your old line into the adapter after the adapter goes into your larger drilled and tapped hole.
