New guy, Old boat- SSDD

[Scott Danforth]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

your best bet is to do a proper transom job. patching and band-aiding with aluminum plate is going to fail.

3M 4200 is a good adhesive, however all you should need is a new transom plate seal.

 

[LyleW]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

Would a "proper job" mean replacing the entire rear of the boat?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

no, a proper job would be unskinning the inside of the transom, removing the wood, bedding new transom wood, re-skinning with fiberglass. then on the outside, grinding down the old fiberglass a bit, a few layers of glass, fairing it in, then gel coating the outside and inside repairs. lastly cut the new hole and mounting the new engine.

if you had to read only a few threads, here is the definative guide to all fiberglass repair in one thread. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=510077

Here is the list of equipment you would need for fiberglass work. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=235651

 

[LyleW]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

thanks for those links, sure to be useful!

 

[LyleW]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

Been a while I know, and some/most will consider me a complete moron! I can live with that! I did not rebuild the entire transom, just built an adapter, glassed over it and added reinforcement. Worst case, it leaks and I have to start over with complete transom replacement!
I am test running the engine and have problems getting water to the sea pump. After the first engine run, using square rubber earmuffs and garden hose, I saw no water from the exhaust. I checked and replaced the impeller and cleaned out the heat exchanger. I figured I should make sure water could reach the new pump before I run the motor again. I hooked up the flush kit and loosened the connection at the pump. NO WATER!
So I am going to start pulling hoses and checking to see if I left a rag in an opening or some such stupid thing!

 

[LyleW]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

More pics
I also added front engine mounts, more pics later.

 

[LyleW]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

Well, turns out there are three "water intakes" aka another hole in the lower unit that I finally noticed a nice round jet of water shooting out of! Plug that and I get water to the engine! I iz an idjit!

 

[Nickypoo]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

No one likes to hear criticism on their handiwork but you should have listened to captmello and Scott Danforth.

Especially if your engine is of the "cantilevered" type (no front engine mounts), don't even try taking this out in the open water. It's just not safe. Even if you overlook your "adapter", the preexisting transom is just not designed to support a cantilevered engine. What you've got there looks only about 3/4" thick. Then your adapter seems like you've routed out 1/3 of the material so it will sit in flush with everything else. This just isn't kosher on so many levels.

I think you are severely underestimating the stresses that the transom must endure.

Edit: Ok I see you plan to add front motor mounts. Still I would be very cautious.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

Your transom needs to be 2" thick. 1_1/2" of wood, and about 1/4" fiberglass on both sides.

It needs to be a solid single piece. not a puzzle of parts.

your boat will sink when the motor pushes that little piece of filler material forward and tears it off the transom. your aluminum bandaid will hold for about a short time, however it will eventually fail.

I wont even get into the fact that the transom plate and outdrive alignment really like to have the 2" transom.

 

[captmello]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

Sorry, but I have to agree with the other guys Lyle. With the time and energy you put into doing it wrong, you could have done it right.

 

[LyleW]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

Appreciate the honest replies. Complete transom redo was too daunting, maybe now that I have worked on it a bit I could reconsider. Call it an education.
To remove the inside transom wood, do I just chisel most of it away then sand to the glass?
Also, my "Circulation" water pump is noisy, any alternatives to a $400 replacement part? I saw bearing kits available but not for my pump.

 

[Bondo]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

Appreciate the honest replies. Complete transom redo was too daunting, maybe now that I have worked on it a bit I could reconsider. Call it an education.
To remove the inside transom wood, do I just chisel most of it away then sand to the glass?
Also, my "Circulation" water pump is noisy, any alternatives to a $400 replacement part? I saw bearing kits available but not for my pump.

Ayuh,.... Lookin' at this picture,...
View attachment 184265

I think you could get in there with a 4" grinder, 'n sand smooth the area from stringer to stringer, 'n build out what you've got to the needed 2" over-all thickness...

Did ya use polyester or epoxy resin to do what you've done,..??

 

[Don S]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

I'm moving this over to the restoration forum, when you get the transom and stringers where they need to be, and thick enough and the stringers where they belong, then Just start a new thread here in the Volvo forum on how to install your engine and drive.

 

[LyleW]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

690 epoxy

 

[Bondo]

Re: New guy, Old boat- SSDD

Ayuh,.... Epoxy is Good,... I'd continue it's use throughout the build...

Now ya need to grind out the bonding area, cut some plywood filler panels, 'n tie it all together...

Yer lookin' for a 2" thick, true, 'n even area to mount yer drive...

Maybe throw in some stringer tie-ins somewhere,... Can't see alot in that picture...