New here.. Soon to rebuild Engine 90Hp 1988

[Chesapeake Explorer]

Been looking in here today and just joined. Been following Hotrods engine rebuild on his 115. Good Job hes done and he will get it all hashed out soon with the rotor problem! <br />I have a 88 Evinrude 90 Hp on my 17 ft Boston Whaler Montauk. Bought it new and now theres 1700 hours on it. 1400+ on the hour meter and some more I figure 300 hours as I put the meter on in 92. Heres some history on my motor.Brand New the motor came rigged with a 21 pitch prop on the 17 ft Whaler. It would run 4500RPM and thats it. The 1 mile marked timed speed was right at 50MPH trimmed up in the fall. Fast for a 17 Whaler! But never knew that the rpm was low and I was in a sense lugging the motor.In 1991 i started having trouble with the VRO horn. Started to blow..Ended up buying the oil tank sender, a new VRO the horn and then saying quits after 2 brief engine siezes and running 50-1 since 1992. No more trouble with that! I put the new VRO on then ran it for a month then put it up and still have it as new (140 dollars or so back then). In 1991 right at the end of the three year extended warrenty I was on the Chesapeake bay and the drive shaft broke at the pinion gear. I did not even try to have the warrenty fix it as I figured they would squirm out of it with the language about "faiuliur of a seal" ect. I got a used 1979 V4 lower unit from a old country mechanic in Va for 600 dollars.I have changed the oil every year and it still works like a champ with my 1400 hrs and plus maybe estimated 800 more hrs on it! My carbs would leak gas out when I raised the motor.. I rebuilt them twice.about 1994-95 new float bowls rebuilt sets ect. I gave up on it and ran it.. No more trouble. I joke that I became a Evinrude Mechinic during these years. Stevens CD-77 peak read volt meter.OMC Flywhell puller kit ,snap on flywheel holder,Stevens spark gauge..lots of tools and I considered even buying the OMC rod alignment tool at one time but it was like 360 dollars in 1992. (more on this tool later) Any way ever since I quit "fooling with it" its run fine and dependable as can be. The only trouble has been the motor on the trim unit.Case rusted out a couple times, magents broke, cleaned it up and rewired it now and resealed it about 4 times and it still goes! Magenits reglued with West System expoxy.. Now that said I have used about 4 cans of OMC engine tuner over the years . There was a problem years back with the TCW 2 oil as some remember. rings sticking ect that the TCW 3 has some what cured as I run the cheapo TCW 3 oil. (The new Engine Tuner has to let sit vfor about 15 hours as opposed to the hour they reccommeded years ago.)<br />Now currently I have ran a 17 1/4 X 13 prop now since 1993 (Lucky me I know where he deep water is) My WOT RPM is about 5400 on a dry day and about 41 MPH. I dont hold it WOT too long though. Cruise speed is 3000-3500 RPM and tractor gear for rough water is 2000 RMP. My compression is <br />left to right banks top to bottom 110/110-95/95. Getting old. I just did a bore scope (locksmith tool sees side ways with a light source) on the cylinders and the tops and sides to the bore of the pistons are fine some lite scoreing . I did pull the head s where she seized in 91 and saw lots of good cross hatch then and some lite scoring. Forgot how big and how many ports the motor had! all looked good. Well this winter I plan to rebuild her with some new pistons and rings. I saw some good tips here for sure.. New wristpins recommended, bottom crank bearing,piston wristpin bearings , circlips (natch)! rebuild carbs again (have the OMC float gauge)of course new seal kit and will measure cylinders with mikes two ways two places and ship new pistons to reborer to match them up. I figure about 700 dollars will do it.. Will let you know how mine goes and make a web page about it..Any other tips would be glad to hear from you!As a kid I had motorcycles (35 yrs ago 90 and 100 Hodaka, A Yamaha 80 a Husquvarna 250 and used to take em apart for "looking to see if everthings Ok " all the time . used to bake the Husqvarna motor in my mothers oven getting cases hot to drive out bearings and freezing bearing races in freezer to fit them without a press so I have a few years experience on these things. All that said I know there are lots of truely experienced people on this board and I will be looking to your advise in the future i have had my share of "hairpullers" for sure so its good to find this forum.

 

[Hotrods]

Re: New here.. Soon to rebuild Engine 90Hp 1988

Good luck. SOunds like you are a step ahead<br />And keep us informed.. I cant wait to do another one..lol...<br /><br />Im good to go now, all that rebuild work and my stator goes bad

 

[walleyehed]

Re: New here.. Soon to rebuild Engine 90Hp 1988

C.E., welcome aboard, and here is my first recommendation: If boring is needed, find a shop that DOES NOT require the pistons to "fit" the bore job. These shops are saying that they know the expansion rate of the piston by doing this, and in reality, the manufacturer is the only one that knows....pistons are "made" to fit a specific bore over-size from standard bore.<br />You do the research on the piston sizes and then tell the shop what the sizes are. this will give them all they need to know. They will tell you how much they had to bore to remove the scoring knowing the piston sizes available.<br />I just finished another O/H on a 90 V4 that was a rebuild from a certain "____bird", and this engine had .020 Wiseco pistons installed, and the bore average was .0175 over standard...It just doesn't work trying to "fit" a piston to a cylinder.

 

[GatorMike]

Re: New here.. Soon to rebuild Engine 90Hp 1988

Good luck. I just finished my 115 this week. Took me about 40 hours and about $1000 in parts. I'm sure the pros are a little faster. Replaced all new pistons,rings,bearings,seals and gaskets. Had the cylinders bored, replaced the T-stats, waterpump impeller and rebuilt the carbs. Dang maybe it took a little over 40 hours, I'm slow and spend more time admiring my work than doing it. Anyway my advice is if you are a novice like me get you a pocket tape recorder and record everything you take off. It may or may not help you get it back together but when you are all done you might get a good laugh when you hear yourself call a power pack a little black looking thingie on top of the number two cylinder.

 

[walleyehed]

Re: New here.. Soon to rebuild Engine 90Hp 1988

Thats not bad time Gator....half the fun of doing your own is admiration!

 

[Dhadley]

Re: New here.. Soon to rebuild Engine 90Hp 1988

Welcome!!<br /><br />Walleyehed hit the nail on the head. If your bore shop requires the piston first, find another shop. Its almost impossible to accurately measure a cam ground tapered piston. As for expansion rates, machine shops have no idea because they dont know what the piston is made of. It can change at any time. Everytime a new material comes out the manufacturer is not going to make a major announcement to the world.<br /><br />Good pistons come with wrist pins, rings and clips. So dont worry about buying all that stuff seperately. <br /><br />Good luck!

 

[reeldutch]

Re: New here.. Soon to rebuild Engine 90Hp 1988

i finished my 115 evi recently and this board was and still is a exelent source of information.<br />if i can give you a tip take it easy with the teardown. work slow and organized.<br />use ziplock bags and a Marker to store bolts nuts etc.<br />use good sockets and solid wrenches.<br />for stuck bolds i used a propanetorch and it helped to get my exhaust of.<br />i bought a flywheel holding tool.<br />be careful with lifting the powerhead a broken stud can be difficult to get out.<br />i took pictures with a digital camera.<br /><br />and if you have a question and cant figure things out ask the pro's.<br />theres always someone who can help out.<br />i'm only a driveway doe it yourself wrench but there are some real good wrenches here and we should all be thankfull to them to help out.<br /><br />good luck reeldutch

 

[Chesapeake Explorer]

Re: New here.. Soon to rebuild Engine 90Hp 1988

Thanks for the tips. I learned long ago about keeping things in order making notes ect. I often take a piece of card board and draw a picture of the case ect Im working on then punch holes in the order of how the bolts go because they can be short ,long ,different size ect. Nothing worse then a tub of parts and trying to remember where they all go ( Exception ..worse is having a "spare part" at the end of the job!)Good advise on the piston size fitting and the fact the pistons can come with wrist pins and clips. Be later this year I will do this.. getting things ready and still lots of boating ,crabbing to do till then!

 

[Hotrods]

Re: New here.. Soon to rebuild Engine 90Hp 1988

One other note, most of your fuel lines and vac lines are at exact lenghts and are molded to go right back where they were. it was very easy putting them all back on because the bends and lengths leads you right to it's connection, but it doesn't help if you miss one like i did. so tagging them with electrician’s numbers and noting where #1 came from and went to, will insure 100% success.. And messing with any linkage is a nono, try and keep it all as it is.

 

[Chesapeake Explorer]

Re: New here.. Soon to rebuild Engine 90Hp 1988

True. I'll keep all the adjustments the same, tagginging and digital pics tool..Looks simple till you think they can go together about 3 different ways!