New Member - 1969 215 Slickcraft- Switch from 160 to 165 merc

Slick Kraft

Recruit
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
4
Hello:
I have recently got a 1969 Slickcraft with a 160 HP inline 6 mercruiser-branded Chevy, MC-1 outdrive.
Engine appears to have had water intrusion, although I was told it ran. Fetched up solid, won't budge an inch. ATF and diesel in sparkplug holes.
But I can get a 165 Mercruiser that runs well, so is this an mere bolt-over? Or am I missing something? Please hurry your responses, I'm supposed to go pick up the 165 on Saturday 4.5 hours away. Thanks to All!
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,345
the 165 is not an inline 6 , you would need everything from that purchase, exaust ,front mounts, and depending on you boats year maybe the transom housing from the purchase
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,766
165 in the add will be a bolt in replacement. Best to run it on the ground if possible.
confusingly merc also had a 3.7 l 4 cylinder 165 hp as well.
 

Slick Kraft

Recruit
Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
4
165 in the add will be a bolt in replacement. Best to run it on the ground if possible.
confusingly merc also had a 3.7 l 4 cylinder 165 hp as well.
Yes, I've run across the 4 cyl 165, as well.
I'd like to hear this one run but starting the motor in the state of undress it shows in the picture may be an issue. Edit: I just asked if it could be done and was told no.
Thanks for the confirmation! Y'know how they can sometimes look similar EXCEPT for some odd-ball measurement😣.
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Not all that hard to start a motor on a pallet. I happened to have an extra wire harness, but a pair of battery cables and a wire to the coil will allow bench running.. Don't even need water for a 2 or 3 minute test.

 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,424
Yes, I've run across the 4 cyl 165, as well.
I'd like to hear this one run but starting the motor in the state of undress it shows in the picture may be an issue. Edit: I just asked if it could be done and was told no.
Thanks for the confirmation! Y'know how they can sometimes look similar EXCEPT for some odd-ball measurement😣.
At least do a compression check on it. That will tell you a lot. BYOB (battery). Why won't he let you start it?
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,766
Yes, I've run across the 4 cyl 165, as well.
I'd like to hear this one run but starting the motor in the state of undress it shows in the picture may be an issue. Edit: I just asked if it could be done and was told no.
Thanks for the confirmation! Y'know how they can sometimes look similar EXCEPT for some odd-ball measurement😣.
Yes pretty easy to run out of the boat, if it runs and has good compression its worth more. if not pay less. Bottom line its a 40 year old engine probably not in great demand. Says it needs a tune up only... if that cant be demonstrated its only a core....
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Carbed, MPI, DTS, all dead easy to run on a pallet/stand without being in the boat. All you need to water, a battery, a fuel tank (10L outboard portable is perfect for the job) and a few bits of wire.

If he won't let you run it, then there will be a reason, and it's best you steering clear.
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,424
Carbed, MPI, DTS, all dead easy to run on a pallet/stand without being in the boat. All you need to water, a battery, a fuel tank (10L outboard portable is perfect for the job) and a few bits of wire.

If he won't let you run it, then there will be a reason, and it's best you steering clear.
How would you start the non carb motors without the electronics?
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
How would you start the non carb motors without the electronics?
Same way you do with the carbbed engine. On the instrument harness socket, link the 'power' pin to the 'ignition' pin (turns the key ON), then short power to 'crank' until it's running. To shutdown, just remove the ignition link...
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,424
Same way you do with the carbbed engine. On the instrument harness socket, link the 'power' pin to the 'ignition' pin (turns the key ON), then short power to 'crank' until it's running. To shutdown, just remove the ignition link...
If you just have a long block, what's driving the ignition and injectors? You don't need the ECU?
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,766
If you just have a long block, what's driving the ignition and injectors? You don't need the ECU?
You need the wiring harness and ecu, ignition module on carbed motors. The engine needs ti be a complete bobtail regardless of cofniguration ( carb, tbi, or mpi) not just a long block.the ad the op showed looks to have a wiring harnes etc so should be relatively easy to run.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
The OP is talking about an inline 6. The most sophisticated part on the engine will be the condenser in the distributor. If it's a complete engine it doesn't even need a wiring harness. Power into the points, power the start motor (and with fuel connected) it'll run.... If it really is just a long block, take a starter motor with you, bolt it on and check compressions...
 
Top