New - old mercury some questions and issues.

Mowens

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 25, 2016
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79
Ok I just purchased this 88 Glasstream 1550 Bass & Ski. It has a 87 Mercury 60hp 3 cyl. Serial # 0B200312. Now the problems / questions.

1. The key ignition is none responsive until you jump the starter solenoid then it works fine for a while. Why? I can't really figure what side of the equation is broken. The push to choke works regardless.

2. I have to push the throttle pretty wide open to start. I have to keep it open for a while as it revs higher I can back off, but never to neutral. I replaced the fuel filter. I noticed the fuel filter bubbling as it runs could this be a simple lack of pressure? I also have residual oil in the throats.

3. My control is an old quicksilver and has a single button that unlocks the gear into neutral. As far as I can tell there is no fast idle option. There is no electrical going to this control and no way to go wot without the prop going. Shouldn't there be something?

4. The last thing atm is when I got it running earlier today I had some grey blue foam like substance coming out from the prop area. Also seems exhaust coming from the same area. Guy I bought it from said he swapped the water pump impeller could he have skipped some gaskets or something?

Thanks for any assistance.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,769
1, likely a solenoid issue, or dirty / loose / corroded wire connections. Clean and tighten each one.

2, Normal to have to advance the throttle quite a ways.
Not being able to get back to idle, is not.

Could have low compression, or no spark on one cylinder, or dirty / maladjusted carbs.
Check compression and spark first.

3, no, you do not want to run the engine at high rpm with no load on the engine. That is how you blow them up. And it provides absolutely no valuable information.

4, If sludge smells like gear lube, you have an issue.
If it only smells like gas, normal.

None of these issues showed up before you bought it ???
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
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49,038
1) You are putting the motor in gear to start, which breaks the connection from the switch to the solenoid. The choke works as long as the key is on.

2) Again, starting the motor in gear. The filter won't fill up, it will be 1/2 or so empty while running. Bubbles may from the fuel hose needing new O-rings.

3) This is the answer to starting in gear. Push the neutral-only button to disconnect the throttle from the gear shifting, the motor stays in neutral and the throttle can be advanced. With the throttle advanced, push the key in to choke while cranking. Also squeeze the primer bulb until firm before attempting a cold start. Your carbs may need a rebuild.

4) The blue stuff is unburnt fuel and 2 stroke oil. You are using muffs, aren't you?
 

Mowens

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 25, 2016
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79
1. It might be the solenoid it looks pretty crappy. /I will replace it even if its not bad it looks like junk and it certainly wouldn't hurt/ GA_Boater - I get what your saying. I didn't think it had a neutral safety switch. There is nothing in or out of the control box except the control cables. And the ignition switch seems to work fine after you bump the solenoid one time, at least for a while.

2. Makes sense. I was concerned about leaks but good deal. I agree some reason I can't get back to idle. I ponder if its dirty carbs.

3. I know on some controls there is like a fast idle lever to help start, I don't have that and from what I can tell I don't have any form of neutral button. The only button is on the handle of the control its a rocker that unlocks the pins so you can push it forward or back. I squeezed the primer bulb until it feels firm but I don't know I think it could be harder but that's probably just me.

4. Honestly it smells like nothing really maybe some fuel like scent but not a oil for sure. Could surely be unburnt fuel and oil. Absolutely using muffs wouldn't dream of trying it without.

Yes and no. The starting issues not really but honestly he started it when I was there and I didn't notice some of this until I looked closer. The blue sludge was not present for sure but we didn't run it as much as I have here.

And for the few hundred I gave for the boat motor and trailer I figured any motor issues could be repaired or at worst I could re-power.

​​​​​​​Thanks for all the advice and information.
 

Mowens

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 25, 2016
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It is an old quicksilver
 

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flyingscott

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Your button GA is talking about is missing from the center of the handle. That needs to be fixed to properly start the motor.
 

Mowens

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 25, 2016
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Gotcha I am looking into the parts. Thanks. With no markings there I assumed the post was just that a post for it to rotate on.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
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49,038
Google this part number - Quicksilver 85896.
[h=1]85896 - Throttle Button[/h]
85896.jpg



[h=1][/h]
An old thread about the remote and throttle only button, but prices have changed - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gen...-engine-topics/496754-quicksilver-control-box
 

Mowens

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Jul 25, 2016
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Thanks a lot. I got it to move with some pliers but it's tough. I am going to take it apart I bet it's full of crud.
 

Mowens

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 25, 2016
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Thanks for all the advice. Button on order. Will clean the carbs, replace the fuel lines, and solenoid while I wait.
 

Mowens

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Jul 25, 2016
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79
So getting things in order here and the tilt/ trim isn't working. I knew when I purchased it that was the case. My question is it has 2 solenoid that seem to have constant 12v like they are closed. Is that at all normal? They do click when you jump them.
 

Mowens

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Jul 25, 2016
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So trying to figure out what's going on I find a few interesting things. Either the throttle messed up or always was. But unless you go wot the plates don't move inside the carbs. Interestingly enough they seem to move better in reverse. Could the throttle cable be connected incorrectly inside the control to cause this? If I use some pliers and open the plate just a touch it starts right up.

also it seems to be leaking a lot of fuel from around the carbs, and coming out the exhaust. As a portion of that there is a small black hose that's plugged into engine and then Tee's off and plugs in again to the power head by the throttle control arm. And the last is just loose but it seems to have fuel in it.
 

Mowens

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 25, 2016
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79
So got several things fixed.

Button came in that was kind of a game changer. Thank you so much for that.
The starting issue turned out to be a loose connection at the ignition switch. Prior owner had used to female spade connectors and just taped them together for the start wire.
The throttle issue was prior owner had setup control wrong both cake on the bottom and once I read the manual setup by instructions it started acting better.
The black hose seems to be the crankcase bleed I found a small brass firing it went on seemed better.
Thank you for all the help.

So with all that good there was some bad. It still refuse to sit at idle and it bogs and dies when you try to go wide open. I checked spark but not yet compression. Still getting a good bit of fuel leaking near the carbs. It died while close to dock and wouldn't restart. So I'm guessing it's time to tear out my carbs and clean them?
 

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