JustJason
Vice Admiral
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2007
- Messages
- 5,321
Re: New Project Boat
Listen Bill. Don wasn't being overly harsh. He's the top dog here. He is closer to your age of 71 than he is to my age of 32, so he's not some hotshot wanna be kid. And he has been wrenchin on boats for longer than most people stay married these days. Sometimes he's grumpy, sometimes he's sweet as sugar, but either way 99% of the time you can take his word as gospel.
Alright Don.... i'm done sayin nice things about you
As far as your engine goes. It's stuck. So whatcha gonna do about it. If this was an I/O (sterndrive) the first thing you do is pull the drive to isolate the 2, as the drive can equally stick, and isolate what's sticking and what's not. As for your's, you could pull the tranny, but that would be to much work. If your trying to work the crank back and forth, make sure you take off all the accessory belts, as you do not want to spin the sea waterpump backwords, and a frozen alternator with a tight belt can mislead you to think the engine is stuck.
If the rings are stuck, all you can to is try to put a breaker bar on the balancer and push/pull/hit the bar with a hammer, and see if it will un-stick.
If you can't get it free... you have 3 options.
1. Pull the motor and/or tranny, whichever is easier, and see what spins and what doesn't, and dissasemble accordingly.
2. Buy or see if you can rent a boroscope, and see what the inside of those cylinders look like.
3. Pull the heads... and see what the cylinders look like.
Either way... your looking at a re-power if you can't get the motor free. (unless it was the tranny that grenaded)
If you happen to get the motor spinning. Then get it running. Run it in the driveway off the garden house for 10 or 20 minutes at an idle. Use a mechanic stethoscope and probe the block and listen for anything loose, especially in the bottom end (crank and rod bearings).
If it all sounds good. Change the oil and filter, tow her out to a smaller take (bring paddles or a kicker or a friend just in case) and run the absolute snot out of the engine. Note your maximum RPMS that your getting from the engine... In short, run it like your trying to blow it up. And that means with the drivetrain in gear and the engine under load, DO NOT rev the engine up in neutral. From a slow troll, punch the throttle, does the engine hit a home run or does it miss like a grounder to Bill Buckner??? Run it and hold it at max RPMS for an extended period and see if she maintains a proper WOT.
If it hasn't blown up on you by now. Take it back home, use a stethoscope again to listen for abnormalities. Do a compression check on every cylinder. If it all checks out good, double check your oil for any water and oil level. Do your required maintence and tune up items and go boating. (including probably a full tune and a water pump)
Your odds are 50/50 50/50. You have a 50 percent chance of freeing the motor up. If you do, you have another 50 percent chance of it working without blowing up.
That's really the best advice I can give.
Listen Bill. Don wasn't being overly harsh. He's the top dog here. He is closer to your age of 71 than he is to my age of 32, so he's not some hotshot wanna be kid. And he has been wrenchin on boats for longer than most people stay married these days. Sometimes he's grumpy, sometimes he's sweet as sugar, but either way 99% of the time you can take his word as gospel.
Alright Don.... i'm done sayin nice things about you
As far as your engine goes. It's stuck. So whatcha gonna do about it. If this was an I/O (sterndrive) the first thing you do is pull the drive to isolate the 2, as the drive can equally stick, and isolate what's sticking and what's not. As for your's, you could pull the tranny, but that would be to much work. If your trying to work the crank back and forth, make sure you take off all the accessory belts, as you do not want to spin the sea waterpump backwords, and a frozen alternator with a tight belt can mislead you to think the engine is stuck.
If the rings are stuck, all you can to is try to put a breaker bar on the balancer and push/pull/hit the bar with a hammer, and see if it will un-stick.
If you can't get it free... you have 3 options.
1. Pull the motor and/or tranny, whichever is easier, and see what spins and what doesn't, and dissasemble accordingly.
2. Buy or see if you can rent a boroscope, and see what the inside of those cylinders look like.
3. Pull the heads... and see what the cylinders look like.
Either way... your looking at a re-power if you can't get the motor free. (unless it was the tranny that grenaded)
If you happen to get the motor spinning. Then get it running. Run it in the driveway off the garden house for 10 or 20 minutes at an idle. Use a mechanic stethoscope and probe the block and listen for anything loose, especially in the bottom end (crank and rod bearings).
If it all sounds good. Change the oil and filter, tow her out to a smaller take (bring paddles or a kicker or a friend just in case) and run the absolute snot out of the engine. Note your maximum RPMS that your getting from the engine... In short, run it like your trying to blow it up. And that means with the drivetrain in gear and the engine under load, DO NOT rev the engine up in neutral. From a slow troll, punch the throttle, does the engine hit a home run or does it miss like a grounder to Bill Buckner??? Run it and hold it at max RPMS for an extended period and see if she maintains a proper WOT.
If it hasn't blown up on you by now. Take it back home, use a stethoscope again to listen for abnormalities. Do a compression check on every cylinder. If it all checks out good, double check your oil for any water and oil level. Do your required maintence and tune up items and go boating. (including probably a full tune and a water pump)
Your odds are 50/50 50/50. You have a 50 percent chance of freeing the motor up. If you do, you have another 50 percent chance of it working without blowing up.
That's really the best advice I can give.
