New to me 1967 Evinrude 9.5hp Sportwin

[Crosbyman]

People are beginning to realize how good these motors are.---------They are beginning to realize how easy / cheap they are to maintain if you do the work yourself.

I tried getting a local fishing magazine to publish an article on "grandpa" engines from the 50s. they would not touch it ! not good for their new engine advertisers I guess ..


I gave them all the links to web sites , parts and shop manual links ... nyet.. no go ......that leave more engines for us

 

[scout-j-m]

I tried getting a local fishing magazine to publish an article on "grandpa" engines from the 50s. they would not touch it ! not good for their new engine advertisers I guess ..


I gave them all the links to web sites , parts and shop manual links ... nyet.. no go ......that leave more engines for us

I'm beginning to like the older motors more and more myself. This past fall I rebuilt my 1994 70hp Force. It is very basic and a simple design but I still ended up having to replace my switchbox, stator, and rectifier, which themselves cost about the same as the new pistons, rings, bearing, machine shop work, etc that the rebuild cost me lol. For these older twin cylinders with magneto ignitions I can rebuild the entire ignition system for less than $100, which I love.

 

[scout-j-m]

The thermostat sits right on top of the head.---Did I say these motors are easy to work on.---Check it.

Oh yeah, forgot to ask...are these motors' thermostats the typical ones that open at something like 143 degrees?

 

[scout-j-m]

I think I am also going to go ahead order a fuel pump rebuild kit and carb kit. The fuel pump kit (Sierra #18-7823) was easy enough to find and is only $11 on Amazon. I'm unsure on the correct carb kit though. Leroy's Ramblings says it's part number 382048 but doesn't include a few things. It seems to be a little more expensive than the carb kits I'm accustomed to buying so I'd like to make sure I am getting the correct one.

 

[Crosbyman]

vintageoutboard.com has lots of kits to choose from...see fuels system they have a kit for 9.5 from 1964.....


​

 

[scout-j-m]

Thanks.

It looks like that particular carb kit is even more expensive on there than where I was previously looking...$39 . Maybe I am just too used to getting the cheap $10-15 kits and am spoiled.

 

[scout-j-m]

I tested the thermostat this evening. It was a little difficult to remove as the gasket and the thermostat itself seemed baked on but it finally came free. I didn't see any indication of the opening temp on it but I tested it on the stove and it opened maybe a little higher than the 143 it was supposed to. I put in back in the block and ran the engine at high idle and the temp seemed to stay between 130-150 on the head depending on where I aimed my IR thermometer.

 

[scout-j-m]

To clarify, I was initially worried about the temp because the head felt much hotter to the touch than my 70hp does and the water stream felt warmer than the 70 too (sportwin was spitting out water approximately 90 degrees). However, it has been a while since I checked the thermo on the 70hp so for all I know it is running too cool due to a stuck thermostat? Anyways, like I said above the temp readings I was getting were all what I believe to be acceptable. So I will check it off as good and maybe go ahead and order a new thermostat just for the fact that the current one looks pretty old.

 

[scout-j-m]

The carb kit and fuel pump kit arrived in the mail Saturday.

I didn't start working on either of those though this weekend but did pull the flywheel to take a quick look at the ignition. Interestingly, the flywheel nut came off with just a wrench and me holding the flywheel by hand. I tried the method of having an extra set of hand pull up on the flywheel while I hit the crank with a hammer and it worked. I was kind of expecting the flywheel key to be sheared sent it doesn't seemed the flywheel nut was torqued down at all but it was fine.

Looking at the ignition system, the coils appeared to be in good shape...no cracking or off coloring or anything else that stood out. They were black and not green like most aftermarket coils I have seen for what it's worth.

The points as a whole were really clean and shiny and look aftermarket, or at least not 50 years old. I didn't have time to clean the actual contact points themselves so I can't speak to them.

The LU was still submerged in a barrel full of oily water so I couldn't turn the prop to rotate the crank and cam. As it sat it was close to one set of points and just turning the throttle to advance the mag plate was enough to see one set opening and closing. After just visually inspecting it, I put the flywheel back on and revisited my spark test. Again, the plugs had visual spark testing them up against the block, however, when using an inline spark tester I was only getting a consistent spark with about a 1/8" gap.

This evening I am planning on going ahead and pulling the carb and fuel pump and cleaning/rebuilding them. I think I will also clean the points. Then maybe I can have everything reinstalled by tomorrow evening and I can recheck for spark and start it to see if the fuel system stuff had any effect. I can also try to set the points as well but I had a question first...I have one of Frank's Tools timing fixtures bought for my 1959 35hp...will that fixture fit the crankshaft taper of this 9.5? Setting the points with the fixture and an ohmmeter absolutely seems like the best and easiest method. I have seen a few videos using an ohmmeter and the installing the flywheel to line up the marks that way but since this motor doesn't have access holes in the flywheel that seems like that method would be a pain.

 

[racerone]

That is not good enuff----On a good magneto it will jump 5/16" with a " snap, snap , snap " you can hear.---Using the timing marks to set the points takes a little more time .---The effort is well worth it !!

 

[scout-j-m]

Yes, it appears I have very weak spark at this point. I just double checked on Frank's website and it appears my current timing fixture wont work either. I will use the feeler gauge method and check it against the timing marks on the flywheel and repeat as necessary.

I'll post some pics of the mag plate as well to show the visual condition of my coils too.

 

[Crosbyman]

I know all the theory but... I have always set my points by just rotating the crankshaft lobe to the high point with the point gap opening up. I then set the gap at 20
and all my oldies work fine !

 

[scout-j-m]

Is it correct that the throttle position and therefore advance of the magplate has no impact on setting the points when using the feeler gauge method? It's probably a stupid question but I just want to be clear here.

 

[racerone]

Throttle position does not matter.--------Note.--You are adjusting the points to so they open at the correct time relative to the rotating magnet.---------Timing of spark to the cylinder is done by the rotating magneto plate.

 

[scout-j-m]

Last night I cleaned and rebuilt the carb. After tearing into, I don't think it was really necessary as it was really clean with little to no varnish and the fuel inlet needle and seat were in good condition. Still, I soaked it in Chem-Dip for about 30 minutes, rinsed it with water, dried with compressed air, and checked for good flow through all of the low speed and high speed passages by blowing carb cleaner through them. I installed the new inlet seat, seat gasket, and needle, float and pin, drain screw gasket, and low speed o-ring, and set the float height to the factory service manual drop height. Reassembled with new gaskets. Checked the inlet needle for a good seat by holding it upside down and blowing into the fuel intake and couldn't blow through.

While the carb was off I checked the reeds. They looked good to me in terms of having no chips missing corners, however, one set did show a small sliver of light as I held them up and looked through them. For now, I just reinstalled them followed by the clean carb.

I also cleaned and gapped the points. Each set were opened too far and I had to move them both closer to achieve 0.020". After that I tested for spark using a spark tester and became extremely frustrated that I was only able to get it to jump maybe 1/8" gap at the most. I tried having my spark tester clipped to numerous different head bolts and other places near or on the block. I finally got a jumper with alligator clips and connected it to a clean bolt holding on the rewind starter, and BAM...nice bright, "zappy" spark that was jumping close to a 7/16" gap on one plug lead and about 5/16"to 3/8" gap on the other one. Goes to show that a good ground is critical. In retrospect, my best bet actually would have likely been to clamp to a portion or the mag plate (free of the moving flywheel).

Time to start it back up and see if either of these tune ups made a difference.

 

[Crosbyman]

for whatever reason.....return conductivity from the spark lead... plug and... ultimately the engine block is or was an issue

you need good 100% conductivity between the mag plate and the engine's main block....you can always attach a extra and loose.metallic braided wire between the mag plate and a bolt on the block itself this will ensure 100% return path for any pulses coming out of the high side of the coils.


make certain the ground wire does not impeed the mechanical movements of the mag plate.

If any wire are present (parts layout is not to explicit) clean all existing connections between the mag plate body and engine block itself to ensure 100% terurn path conductivity

 

[scout-j-m]

Good advice. Thanks.

 

[scout-j-m]

I was able to find the time Saturday to run the motor for the first time since rebuilding the carb and cleaning and adjusting the points. It idled down considerably better. Prior to the work it would run fairly smooth when given some throttle but the powerhead would shake and knock a lot when I tried to idle it down and adjust the low speed needle. I was able to get it to run and idle decent in the tank with the hood off but it would not run well at all with the hood on (like has been mentioned) without really leaning out the low speed knob.

After this small victory I attempted to boat test the motor in a large farm pond. I say attempted because the only small enough boat I have for this motor is actually too small. It is a 10' flat bottom but a very shallow and thin one at that. The cavitation plate was probably 4 or 5" under the bottom. Then I had to have my dad sit in the front just to keep the front end down. I think this little boat is only rated for a 4hp motor and 240lb of motor, people and gear....which we were sitting at about 320 lb of just the two of us plus a 60lb motor and 5 gallons of gas. So with all of that working against us, I actually thought it did very well. I'm trying to find a better hull with an appropriate transom size and better planing surface to try it on now. At that point I will set the forward idle and low speed needle with hood on to try to get it dialed it a little better.

 

[scout-j-m]

I was able to do a better boat test this afternoon. This time I had a 1436 flat bottom. It had a slightly taller transom and held the weight of two people and motor and gas better.

With the cowling off, I was doing 14-16 mph and turning about 4600-4800 rpms according to my inductive tach. When I replaced the cowling, however, the motor would only turn 3800-4000 rpms (if not less) and do 13-14 mph. This was at the slow speed mixture screw at about 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated. Screwing it in all the way and leaning it out had positive effects and gave it a little more power but I only did that briefly. Would this be a symptom of an exhaust leak into the cowling?

I took a video on my phone and posted it on Youtube. I used a pretty neat app called Vidometer that overlays the live speed. Forgive my videoing skills though, as I don't have any experience doing it let alone on a boat.

BTW, the motor was still too low on this transom. The cavitation plate still needed to be brought up another couple of inches I believe. I'm not sure how much that would help performance though.

 

[scout-j-m]

I plugged in my speed and rpms from above to a prop calculator plus my prop pitch (8") and LU gear ratio (1.77:1). It looks like those numbers result in prop slip of 0.25%+. I know it's not vital info relevant to the exhaust leak issue, however, it does tell you that the motor may perform even better on a better transom or positioned better.