New to me 1993 140 Looper couple questions from a crossflow guy

[rothfm]

I'm a crossflow guy,, I know them really well. Lots of experience.

I Picked up this motor for a possible long term project. Old guy kept it in his heated garage for 10yrs. To my surprise, he let it go for 250 bucks! And it looked really clean.

Brought it home, its unadulterated and not buggered up, 120psi. Did the usual pre-checks and fired it up just as a test, ran decently, normal temps. I did the water pump today. TNT works, charging system checks, all cyls firing.

I just got the OEM manual today too...But theres so many things "new" to me being a looper vs crossflow.

1) The tell-tale looks like a venturi, with a sump hose for the pan. Is this correct? It came out the tell tale initially then sort of stopped. Poked a small drill down the hole and it again began water flow....But before/after it doesnt flow Like I'm used to seeing,,,sort of "sprays" an uneven flow....NORMAL??? Temps run normal.

2) I like to pop the therm housing on the crossflows, as a sure-fire way to see the block flowing water, Is there a similar way to do this on this looper?

3) I'm going to do the usual head gaskets, and carb rebuilds....Bieng a crossflow person, I'm not familiar with the front carb adjustments. Im assuming leave those adjustments alone for now???, and rebuild the carbs, and go from there.



Overall it runs not too bad, a tad rough at idle but I'm read in forums this is somewhat normal for the motor?

Think I got a good deal, if it runs well going to swap the 115 from my boat to this.

Thanks for any input.

 

[rothfm]

pic

 

[Faztbullet]

That the cowling siphon.......and water just runs out indicator no pressure just volume.

 

[daselbee]

One of the biggest differences is the carb/throttle body design. All the idle fuel that is supplied to the engine is metered and delivered by the throttle body. When cleaning the carbs, you must do the throttle bodies also to do a thorough job.

 

[rothfm]

Thanks Daselbee,

Did another test last eve, this time in a barrel.

It idles very very nice, almost dont want to touch anythin! But it was sitting 10yrs..i should do carbs (pump kit done).

Pleasantly surprised for $250 bucks

Thanks

 

[ezmobee]

Oh for god's sake I'm sitting here with a dead 90HP and you got my dream post '85 140 looper for $250. Kill me!

 

[jakedaawg]

Oh for god's sake I'm sitting here with a dead 90HP and you got my dream post '85 140 looper for $250. Kill me!

I have several dead 90's laying around if you want more:fencing:

 

[rothfm]

Ezmobee, sorry bout that!!

Got lucky, usually doesnt happen to me...its a 1993 actually. The Old guy wanted 350, i felt bad, but had to toss an offer of $250 just for kicks. He took it.

I figured it had a burnt hole or something,,runs sweet so far

Ordered the usual kits for maint work

 

[Faztbullet]

Only use the OEM kits for carbs.....

 

[rothfm]

Faz, can you elaborate?

Already got 4 Sierra kits enroute. Used em on crossflows without much trouble.

 

[rothfm]

Any input on the Sierra Carb kits for these motors?

 

[jakedaawg]

well, if Fazt said it it must be important, he is one of the posters I trust more than I trust myself. I have only used OEM and so have no experience.

 

[rothfm]

Agreed, FAZT has helped me and all of out tremendously!! Just asking for input on Sierra because I already have purchased them and "In-Hand"...If Its an Absolute NO-NO...I will return them and get OEM for sure.

 

[Faztbullet]

They are ok but the bowl gasket is thinner than OEM and any warpage in bowl will show up as idle or lean WOT. Had several engines that customers had rebuilt carbs and the gasket wouldn't seal around center discharge causing WOT problem. The gasket barely made imprint in it. Installled OEM and was fixed,plus for a few dollars more you get the float.

 

[racerone]

Aftermarket is not always cheaper either.

 

[ondarvr]

I have several dead 90's laying around if you want more:fencing:

​I have a couple too, they may go for scrap value.