New to me Eska 9.9

bjbmedic

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Sep 20, 2010
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Last week I aquired myself an Eska 9.9 model 1933A for practically nothing. It had sat for 3 years with the guy I got it from and he never did anything with it. He didnt even know if it ran. When I got it I found I could turn it over and that it had compression but I didnt know much more than that. I put new plugs into it and have checked the carb and disassembled the lower unit. I found that it needed a new impeller and replaced that today. I also noted that the forward gear is showing some wear but Im not sure yet if its enough to need replaced right away. The carborator looked like it had been worked on shortly before it sat as it was very clean and needles dont show any wear at all. I managed to get it in a barrel to test it and after some difficulty I managed to get it started. I did have to pull many times to get it to however. During the testing I noticed several things. Any time I tried to place it in gear it would kill the motor immeadiately. Also, some times when I was trying to start the motor it would back fire out the air intake or I could see vapor coming from the intake. When it was killed going into gear it freuqently back fired once before dying. Im basically an self taught amateur when it comes to things like this. What would be causing those problems and what should I look at doing to correct it. Any help here is much appreciated.
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mrcrabs

Guest
Re: New to me Eska 9.9

During the testing I noticed several things. Any time I tried to place it in gear it would kill the motor immeadiately

it all seems to point to a lean condition, there is a welch plug on the side of the carb behined that are fuel jets and a filter screen. Any blockage there could give you those symptoms.

back fire out the air intake
again a lean condition. get the tecumseh carb manual.

forward gear is showing some wear
did you actually look at the gear or is it just slipping out of forward? you can adjust the shift rod for a more positive ingagement of the shifting dog.
 

bjbmedic

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

If you are talking about the filter under the fuel pump then I checked that this morning before I tested it and it was clean. As was everything else I looked at in the carborater. It seems the only adjustment needle I can find on it is next to the throttle valve on the top left side of the carb. At least I think that's what it is. In the Tecumseh carb manual I don't actually a carb that looks like mine so I'm not 100% sure but that's the only thing that makes sense. Is it possible that using a 50:1 gas mix instead of the 32:1 that it's supposed to use can cause this? As far as the forward gear I inspected it and it worn. I just won't know how bad it is until I DNA actually test it on my boat. Which I will do once I get it running right. Thanks
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mrcrabs

Guest
Re: New to me Eska 9.9

yep my mistake its under the flapper valve not the welch plug,
The adjustment needle is your idle fuel adjustment, 1 full turn out to start with.
I use 5o:1 fuel in a 32:1 Tecumseh engines alot and I don't have running issues...maybe engine wear but it will still run and run good...its all just a rod bearing thing w/old oil technology anyway, any TCW3 oil will run great in your 9.9 @ 50:1.
My guess is you need to remove the welch plug and clean the jets and replace the plug, best put a new pump element in or at the very least have one for backup, join the yahoo group and get the real manual, it does cover your carb.

Here are a few things to consider with a lean condition, Fuel pump element slot has to be at a 45 degree angle and your tank (if its remote) needs to be high enough about a ft or so below the engine or the little pump will have a hard time pulling up the gas and she will run lean.

PM with email addy and I can help you find the carb manual link.

look for the Eska yahoo group link in my signiture, the carb manual is there

Oh yeah, and that gear will be findable but they will want to sell you a whole set,
I have a set of those gears. :)
 

bjbmedic

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

I did join the yahoo group and have looked at the carb manual but mine looks slightly differed than the ones I've seen in there. I'm going to try and get the element here locally tomorrow and maybe the innards of the fuel pump as well and see if the helps.as far as the gear goes I already know where I can get one for $50. A lot cheaper than the $400 plus for my evinrude.
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mrcrabs

Guest
Re: New to me Eska 9.9

50$ is a deal compared to OMC, I saw the whole set for $120 on ebay.

Your carb may look diffrent cosmetically i.e linkage and stuff but the insides are the same.
I would be suprised to find a pump element in my area, I buy them 3 at a time from certified and flapper gaskets....seems the later ones are thiner than the OE and don't last as long, about 2 yrs hanging on the stand ;).
 

bjbmedic

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

Well I did some looking for the pump element and flapper gasket and ended up just ordering from Certified. I did happen to think of something stupid I did when I put the car back together, I didnt line the bowl up the way it should be so it may be messing with the float. I will correct that tomorrow and see if that makes much of a difference. I also called up a buddy who is good with small engines to maybe help me figure it out too.
B
 

bjbmedic

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

Here is an update. I did some barrel testing today and again it took me a number of pulls to get the motor started and when I did it didnt run for very long. I noticed that the primer bulb was always empty after the motor shut down so apparently part of the problem is that the motor isnt pulling enought fuel into the motor so Im guessing I have a fuel pump problem at the minimum. I also noticed that even after the motor was warm I had an easier time getting it to start if it was choked or half choked so Im think there is some sort of an issue with the fuel/air mixture as well but Im not sure. I have a pump element and flapper gasket ordered and its been shipped so I should have that in the next couple of days so I will replace those when they get here. Also, my idle needle has a spring device that only allows it to be turned so far before running into a stop. I did some checking and found it was turned quite a ways out so I reset it to all the way in and then turned it out one complete turn and reset the stop device so the stop is in the middle of that setting right now. Another note, the tank was sitting in my boat in its normal position and the motor was sitting at its normal height it will be at which is slightly above the level of the tank. Any ideas on what I should do next is much appreciated. Thanks
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mrcrabs

Guest
Re: New to me Eska 9.9

do the pump and flapper, if you search ebay use all category's for Tecumseh carb kits you can get a deal on the float needle , clip and viton seat for around $4 shipped...yes you need to do that as well, also the welch plug needs to be removed and the jets cleaned...I use 6 Lb fishing line and lots of spray carb cleaner and compressed air...if you want I will send you a welch plug by USPS mail...I keep them a plenty. send me PM address if you need one and I will be glad to mail it to you. pay close attention to the carb manual concerning the orientation of the float needle clip, installed backward it can cause the needle to pull close to the wall of the fuel inlet and stick the float.
 

bjbmedic

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

I ordered the part you suggested. I also sent you a PM about the welsh plug. I had someone suggest to replace the crankcase seals as well but I have to admit I dont really know anything about them. I read the engine manual and am still confused. I assume Im going to have to take the powerhead off to get to them. Any pointers on that would be helpful too. Thats getting a little deeper than I have experience with
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mrcrabs

Guest
Re: New to me Eska 9.9

I had someone suggest to replace the crankcase seals

Nah...thats to much for even me with the 9.9 and I doubt its your problem.
Have you checked spark for both cylinders? past that do the carb rebuild and water pump...if it gets deeper than that I would part it out.
Welch plug is in the mail box.
 

bjbmedic

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

MrCrabs, I ordered the parts you mentioned. I also sent a PM to you regarding the welsh plug. Another question, someone mentioned replacing the crankshaft seals. I read about that in the manual but Im confused as to how that is done. Ive never done anything on engines themselves before. I assume I will probably have to remove the power head from the unit to do so which I can do but Im not really sure where to go from there. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
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mrcrabs

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

Your becoming hysterical and double posting...now just calm down ;)
 

bjbmedic

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

Thats weird. I tried to reply before and it looked like it didnt take so I did it again. My pump element and flapper gasket came today so I am in the process of replacing them and noticed when I pulled the fuel pump off that there was litterally dirt in screen and my old pump element was torn which I dont remember it being when I checked before. I have no idea where the dirt came from other than my tank which looks like the gas is clean but I think I will empty the tank out and put new gas in it. The fuel line are new and clean so I know it didnt come from there. I guess the dirt explains some of my problems last night
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mrcrabs

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

regular 87 octane 10% ethanol makes excellent carb soak/cleaner...I give them a day or 2 to soak...You might want to pull that welch plug and let it soak till the new plug gets there. And remember to follow every instruction in the manual, 45 degrees for the pump element, 11/64 drill bit for float level...I use a plastic caliper to measure the drill bit then use the caliper to set the float....no. 4 crochet needle to pull the old viton seat and a flat punch worked down to fit the brass well for seating the viton seat, and finger nail polish to seal the new welch plug after you have punched it in.
 

bjbmedic

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

I got it up and running this afternoon for about 45 minutes. It ran fairly well, idles a little higher than I expected. Ran it in gear as well and while it did die several times while I was doing that I think it had more to do with taking too much of the exhaust in the air intake of which there was planty of coming from the barrel. I feel pretty good about it at this point. Obviously still have to make some adjustments but it seems like I am making progress so hopefully next week I can actually test it on water!
 

bjbmedic

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

Today I finished all the carb work and barrel tested it and it appears successful so Im ready for the next step to boat test which I am hoping to do later tday but I am very pleased with my results. I think I've spent only about $40 total to get this up and running. Thanks for all the assistance and advice. I do hae one question. Is the only place I should see the motor peeing from the tube at the base of the head? At the top of the leg there are two holes on the stern side that I can feel exhaust and some mist coming from them but didnt know if there is anywhere else I should be seeing the water coming from. It did run really well and the sides of the motor didnt seem too warm so Im thinking Im good.
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mrcrabs

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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

Your the man B, Congratulations on your successful carb rebuild...now you can give the advise eh?

:D:D:D
 

bjbmedic

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Sep 20, 2010
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Re: New to me Eska 9.9

I don't know about being able to give advice yet. But I sure can tell people to read the carb manual and follow directions. The lake test went very well, ran pretty much like I wanted. The only thing is it still takes me about 10 pulls to get the motor started which seems a bit excessive to me. Not sure what the deal is there but once it's running it does well. Also despite the wear on the forward gear I never suffered a gear slip at all even under full power. I'm pretty impressed with this little motor. I think my evinrude is going to be sitting in the garage a lot now
 
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