New transom idea

[79_banshee]

Hey everyone I got a 79 banshee and over the winter months I plan to put a new transom and stringers if needed. I was wondering about putting the new transom all the way across the boat instead of just the middle. There is some floatations boxes with foam on each side of the transom. Can I make the new one go straight across and then fill in the back corners with foam. My plan is to also fill under the floor with foam as well like Jay from friscoboater did on his cvx. Would that be enough floatation. Or should I just copy the original design of the boat. The floor feels solid and there's no soft spots but by the bilge area the glass is delaminating from the wood and wood seems damp. It almost feels like someone has done the floor before but don't seem like a very good job was done. The other day as I was tipping the boat up I wigged it and could hear water sloshing around so I know it's holding water somewhere in the bottom of the boat. Expecting the worse

 

[79_banshee]

If the stringers are not rotten all the way up could I just cut out past the rot and tab in new ones or should I just put new front to back

 

[gsxrdan]

U might as well extend the transom to the hull sides, just make sure theres no water trap areas (seen pix of earlier models of my boat that had just a partial transom, but it looks way more solid when it goes to the sides)

And everyone will tell u that if u dont do the whole job now (stringers front to back) u prob will be in a couple of years - if ur in there anyway, do the whole job. Good luck.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Same sticky as the link to Jays thread is the link on foam.

Without pics, hard to see what you have. With that stated, your boat is almost 40 years old. If you rebuild it like original, it will last another 40

 

[79_banshee]

No Title

Can't seem to find the link but this is the you tube video I watched. I'll post some pics of boat soon

 

[79_banshee]

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The boat also has a Mercury 115 on the back so I want to make sure there's enough there to hold that engine and power. Think it was only rated for a 90 hp here's some pics. I do plan on taking the cap off to do all of this work just haven't got that far yet

 

[Scott Danforth]

If your only rated for a 90, anything above that is frowned upon by the local LEO's

Now how about taking a step back say 20 feet and taking some pictures..... We need pictures of the trees to put the pictures of bark in perspective

 

[79_banshee]

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The 115 was on the boat when I bought it and I'm not going to spend thousands on a new engine just to down size. I know it's probably not right but oh well. I was looking up the boat and I guess it's not a banshee its a glastron gt150. I had thought someone just put the glastron badge on it cause it looks very much like the banshee. Never thought glastron made boats that looked like it never seen any while looking to buy one or on the internet. Any way these are the best I can do for now until I get the cap off. The boat is only 15 feet long and I'm jammed up against the steering wheel to even take these ones. There is no badge on the boat saying what hp it is rated for just from what I've seen on other posts and on eBay you can buy the plates for them that tell you the capacity.

 

[79_banshee]

No Title

This is a pic kind of what I was thinking that I found

 

[Woodonglass]

There's NO reason to run the transom the full width. The design of the boat allows for a transom mounted ONLY in the central section. 1 1/2" of plywood properly installed will be MORE than strong enuf to support your Merc' 115. Just put it back like you found it. Check the "Sticky" section at the top of the forum for some helpful info on fabricating and installing your transom.

 

[79_banshee]

Ok thanks woodonglass. So I should do the foam boxs again on the sides? Should I foam under the floor as extra or is that just overkill. Could I make the boxs on the sides a little smaller to get some extra storage

 

[GA_Boater]

Looking at this one pic, the boat may have a full width transom. Now I'm looking at this at the end of an Internet connection and it may not be full width. You will find out when you start to rip into it.


Keep the foam boxes, especially with the heavier motor if it is overpowered.

 

[79_banshee]

Thanks Ga but it's the peice of wood that the rub rail screws to. But think I'm going to replace it all the way around the boat as well some of the screws are pulling out

 

[GA_Boater]

Like I said, the wire is long. LOL

 

[79_banshee]

Ya fore sure. Thanks for replying to my tread though. Some of the other pics that were with that one show it a bit better thanks again. Do you think I should foam the floor?

 

[DeepBlue2010]

The designer of your boat requested enough material to satisfy the structural integrity required to support the engine. They did not provide any provisions for any add-ons you might want to add in the future simply because it will cost them money. If you plan to add a kicker motor or even a swimming ladder or swimming platform.. all of these additions can benefit from a transom that spans the whole beam as opposed to just the middle section. With that said, I would proceed as you initially planed and span the entire beam. You don't have to make it all the same thickness if you don't want to or if you are concerned about the extra weight. In this case, I would go for full thickness in the middle section and drop to an inch thick beyond it.

You can build the foam boxes back after you build the transom. I would put a plastic or shrink wrap inside them before pouring in the foam so that if I need to remove the foam to get to the back of the transom during one of the above mentioned add-on projects or for whatever reason, I can just remove the bag of foam and re insert it when I am done.

Foaming in general is a good idea and it is an added insurance in case the boat starts to take water. It will also reduce noise and make your ride significantly quieter. If you use the same plastic technique (first suggested by a board member called Oops) you will not have to worry about water saturation but it adds extra work to the process. Read this for extra info and see if you are willing to give it a shot.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...nd-foam-a-hull

You can foam without plastic and still accomplish great results specially on a trailer boat provided that you will keep the boat well drained, ventilated and covered during storing with bow up and drain plug removed.

 

[79_banshee]

Thanks for your advice deepblue but don't think I will be adding a ladder or anything like that so I think I might just copy the original transom but maybe make the foam boxs a little smaller for a little more storage in the back end of the boat.

 

[79_banshee]

Started a new tread (and it begins 79glastron gt150) for the rebuild if anyone wants to follow along.