Newb, first stringer/bulkhead job.

uniberp

Cadet
Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
6
I picked up a SR Seville 19 open bow fully knowing it would need full stringer replacement, but it had all the mechanicals just gone over, new bellows, runs nicely, so it was worth it for the outdrive and prop alone.

I've been reading a lot on stringer/floor replacement, and it occured to me that I have a bundle of .75 ipe (brazilian walnut) wood t&g flooring left over from the house. Probably 50 square feet. The stuff is like solid fiberglas. It takes some real work to glue it up, using resorcinol glue instead of epoxy, but there are long boards in the bundle, some over 5 feet. Sistering them may work.

The wood only slightly expands when wet, and is the densest heaviest and strongest I've ever worked with. I'm thinking it will make good stringer bases, at least, with maybe fir tongued in on top to make up teh depth.

Maybe it might even make a good deck, although I'd have to round over the edges to avoid potentially splintering corners. And the splinters are vicious.

Any thoughts on this material?

Thanks

MPergielWalkerMi
 

zach103

Commander
Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
2,233
Re: Newb, first stringer/bulkhead job.

no clue but it deff sounds like a cool idea..
 

allpoints360

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 23, 2009
Messages
342
Re: Newb, first stringer/bulkhead job.

For decking, you don't want to use tongue in groove. You should rip the t n g off the boards and butt joint them using an epoxy adhesive. This is the way teak decks are done.

Good luck!
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: Newb, first stringer/bulkhead job.

hello uniberp..

As for the stringers .. probably not a good Idea using the walnut.. use ply ( very strong ).

Walnut decks.. shure would be sweet lookin :)

YD.

PS. have you ever worked with purpleheart ? .. hehe.. its so hard that it sinks ( as in to the bottom of the ocean ) :) .
 

uniberp

Cadet
Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
6
Re: Newb, first stringer/bulkhead job.

This "Ipe" brazlian walnut stuff sinks too. I put it in my kitchen floor because it's totally water proof and tougher than nails, (literally, also it's dark and pretty and shows every bit of dust).

It's full of resin, and dense and heavy. It sinks. I've read where epoxy will not bond it, it requires resorcinol glue (http://wapedia.mobi/en/Wood_glue) and need to prep the wood surface with acetone and flame to burn off the near-surface resin and let the glue replace it. Somewhat bizarre.

I got to do the demolition first, so I have time to consider this.

To do a deck with this stuff would be cool, but since it's SO heavy I think I only want it amid and maybe forward, plus the stringers if that works. I think laying it athwartship amidship would give the best strength. Even screw it to stringers and cap the holes.

The tongue and groove issue is tricky for decking, and I know it's not adviseable, but I may try it (found materials and practically found boat.) I put some ipe on a balcony unnailed and there is some cupping on each board and the edge could develop splinters.

To finish it in my kitchen I used a low rpm disc sander. The stuff is so hard it's like sanding stone, no swirl marks, came out great. I used a 2 part water based "Buona" interior finish applied quickly after a final screen sanding. I figure I could resand it on the boat deck if necessary, or even remove it and redo the edges.

Dat's my plan. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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