Newbie questions

mesajeeper

Seaman
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
66
The details on the boat - 1988 5.7L Mercuiser with Alpha 1 outdrive. My brother and I just purchased the boat two weeks ago. Our first day on the lake was a blast and everything went well until it was time to load the boat on the trailer after 8+ hours on the lake. We had two problems:

1. The boat would not shift into Forward. It would shift into neutral and reverse just fine but not into forward.
2. The trim adjustment on the throttle handle would only work intermittently.

We took the boat to a friend of a friend who "knows" boats. He diagnosed the following:
1. Outdrive looked good inside. He adjusted the shift cables.
2. Trim motor is overheating and needs replaced.

As I was planning a day at the lake Saturday with my wife and three kids, we decided to go out for a quick test Friday after work. The trim hardly worked at all now and the shifting issue also got worse. So, that night being a shade tree mechanic myself I decided to figure this out on my own.

1. I attempted to adjust the shift cables. They worked perfectly in the driveway on rabbit ears!
2. I determined that the trim issue was all in the switch. I added an on-off-on toggle switch to my dash and wire it up to get me by until I can find a replacement switch for the throttle handle.

So Saturday went as follows:
1. Shifting adjustments did not work. I brought tools along and tried to make adjustments on the lake. Please note I did not even look at a repair manual or anything I just tried to wing it. It appeared to me that I simply needed more adjustment than the rear cable would allow. I finally disconnected the rear cable and shifted the boat manually. Most of the time it would shift fairly easily ( my 11 year old would shift it into forward and reverse at my command) but occasionally we would depress the cable all they way in and it would not shift. We found that if we pull the cable shifting it into reverse and then shifted again into forward it would usually shift. Sometimes we would have to make several attempts before it would finally go in.
2. The trim switch worked perfectly. I just need to find were to buy a replacement switch so that i can have the trim adjustment on the handle again.

Finally the questions:

1. After reading iboats forums for two days, it sounds to me like the rear shift cable needs to be replaced. However, the friend of a friend who knows boats (but didnt actually fix anything) says it is not the cable rather a part in the outdrive that the cable connects to that is probably worn out and he can replace it for us for a fee.

Basis questions:
1. My outdrive says "Alpha 1" on it so I know that much. But apparently there are various Alpha 1 drives. How can i determine which one i have?
2. I asked a boat shop if the diy'er (me) can replace the rear shift cable and he said probably if it has been replaced before. If not, their shop could do it for $350 labor. Apparently if it has not been replaced before it will involve taping a new hole somewere. Is the a way to tell if i will need to do this or not?

Thanks in advance for your help. I am not usually this long winded I just wanted to give you all the facts.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,095
Re: Newbie questions

Apparently if it has not been replaced before

Ayuh,... You should consider changing out ALL of the rubber parts at the same time....
If the lower cable is Shot, Good chance the Bellows are also due...
 

mesajeeper

Seaman
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
66
Re: Newbie questions

OK, I will certainly consider replacing all the bellows. I was shopping on iboats and it appears that almost all the parts can be either Sierra or Mallory brand. The costs appear about the same. Is one brand preferred over the other?
 

mesajeeper

Seaman
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
66
Re: Newbie questions

UPDATE: I am now certain the issue is the shift cable. I peaked underneath the outdrive in the up position and I can see the shift cable. Several of the little wires are broken and protruding from the cracked casing. So i will be attempting to do this repair myself. These are the questions I have so far.

1. Do I really need to purchase the special 9/16 socket or can I just take an old deep socket and grind the walls down until it fits?
2. Reading through various instruction, it sounds like i will need the following lubricants and sealants:
a. Bellows adhesive
b. Special lube 101
c. Spline Grease
d. Perfect seal or Permatex 2B
e. Locktite (what color?)

In addition i will purchase the shift cable kit that I presume will have all the gaskets, o rings, etc. that I will need.

Is there anything I am missing here?

3. It has been suggested that I replace the U-joint bellows and exhaust bellow while I have the drive off. Anything else I should do?
a. Do I need the special bellows tool?

Thanks for your help
 

dbuffham

Recruit
Joined
Jun 4, 2010
Messages
4
Re: Newbie questions

UPDATE: I am now certain the issue is the shift cable. I peaked underneath the outdrive in the up position and I can see the shift cable. Several of the little wires are broken and protruding from the cracked casing. So i will be attempting to do this repair myself. These are the questions I have so far.

1. Do I really need to purchase the special 9/16 socket or can I just take an old deep socket and grind the walls down until it fits?
2. Reading through various instruction, it sounds like i will need the following lubricants and sealants:
a. Bellows adhesive
b. Special lube 101
c. Spline Grease
d. Perfect seal or Permatex 2B
e. Locktite (what color?)

In addition i will purchase the shift cable kit that I presume will have all the gaskets, o rings, etc. that I will need.

Is there anything I am missing here?

3. It has been suggested that I replace the U-joint bellows and exhaust bellow while I have the drive off. Anything else I should do?
a. Do I need the special bellows tool?

Thanks for your help

I am in the same boat!...well not exactly the same boat but the situation.

Did you do this yourself, what is the outcome?

Dan
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
Re: Newbie questions

Don't buy a deep socket. Go to Sears and get a deep 9/16" spark plug socket with a hex on it's end that you can put the next size deep socket on to. Now you have a long enough socket pair to emulate the special long socket. I only realized this on a Sunday when trying to put in my cable without having bought the socket. Turns out the socket for the spark plugs in my 05 F150 5.4 (Triton) was the key item!
The bellows adhesive is that same brown poisonous smelling goop that we used to use on thermostat housings when I was a teenager in the early seventies. I think it was called Pemmican. Just buy it, the 2 bellows, the cable assembly, and the Perfect Seal compound. You won't probably use it but the loctite is red. To remove the bellhousing and make the bellows installation really easy you will need a pivot tool. That is a hardened torx-like bit for a socket wrench. It's probably $5. To reinstall the bellows clamps you will need a 1/4" drive socket on the end of a flexible extension, it's a springy extension. Universal joints don't work, get a flexible extension. The guy who shows you how to do a bellows replacement on you-tube says to get one from Snap-On, I say Craftsman for 1/3 of the money.
I tried to order Special lube, and Mercstuff said you can't get it any more. I didn't see a place it was needed. I just use Mercruiser grease on the prop spline and the drive spline.
And the little tool to align the shift fork for reinstallation is helpful too, I think that cost $3 or $4.
If you just want to boat quick, you can change the shift cable alone. But you will be smart to do the bellows soon too.
Good luck.
 
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