Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

jigngrub

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

Dry Ply will not be suitable, it has a waterproofing sealer on it that will keep your resin from penetrating and bonding to the wood.

Just get regular ABX, ACX, or BCX. You want an untreated and unsealed exterior grade plywood.
 
B

bakerjw

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
288
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

Around here, Lowes and Home Depot have a plywood called Plytanium which is exposure 1 grade. It is BC grade and goes for $35.00 a sheet at both places. It is made with waterproof glue. Lowes has it as item number 12229 Plytanium 23/32 x 4 x 8 Pine Sanded Plywood. Their specification shows Glue Type as Exterior. It is 5 layer and not as good as Arauco. I've found some voides here and there, but it has been very workable and sucks up epoxy like crazy.
 
1FASTLASER

1FASTLASER

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
158
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

jigngrub said:
Dry Ply will not be suitable, it has a waterproofing sealer on it that will keep your resin from penetrating and bonding to the wood.

Just get regular ABX, ACX, or BCX. You want an untreated and unsealed exterior grade plywood.
Click to expand...
+1 on the dry ply I use to work for Georgia Pacific and made that stuff. It WILL NOT allow resin n glass to adhere. The plytanium even though not the best will suffice if you do your work correctly. Like bakerjw said it soaks up resin very well
 
Last edited:
B

Brenn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
251
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

Good luck,Im not a huge fiberglass guy but definitely love to follow along the refurbs.
 
P

Peteypablo25

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
79
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

Take notice of the square wooden block...it was screwed THROUGH THE HULL WITH SCREWS STICKING OUT OF THE BOTTOM OF THE HULL!. Amazing is all I can say about that. I dont understand how on EARTH someone couldve done that but I guess that wooden block was well worth drilling holes in the bottom of the hull!
 
P

Peteypablo25

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
79
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

Wog...that post you referenced is awesomely informative... I got caught up in your thread even though its over a year old. NICE JOB! Si my questions are how do I indefinitely fi X those screws that went through the hull and do I juat use. Pb in between the trans9m and sk8n?
 
jigngrub

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

LMAO at the screws through the hull!:laugh: Those gosh darn previous owners will anything for a laugh eh?!:facepalm:

To fix that spot I'd grind it down to fresh glass and throw a patch or 2 of 1708 about a square foot big on it, then fill what ever was left on the outside with fairing compound and sand smooth. Those 4 holes aren't that serious, but you don't want them to come back to haunt you later either.
 
Last edited:
tpenfield

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,149
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

The old 'screws thru the bottom of the hull' trick . . . nice. You will learn a lot and end up with a 'better than new' boat. The pictures really bring your project to life, so thank you for that.

I see that you are somewhat local (to me). I assume that you will use the boat in Narragansett Bay once you have it all restored. As far as the wood to use on the rebuild . . . a higher quality exterior grade plywood should do the trick. That is what many boat companies use. . .

As an example, here is a photo of the stringers in my Formula 330. The material is "Roseburg Resin Tite Hot Pressed Exterior Glue", which is a good grade exterior plywood.

IMG_1110.jpg


Other boat companies have used same/similar material over the years.

I know of a couple of fuel tank fabricators in the RI/Cape Cod area, as is sounds like you may need a new tank, based on the 'fuel soaked foam'. The local shops should be able to make a new tank that matches the dimensions of the old tank. (I've been there, done that).

PM me if you want some information on the tank fabricators.

Anyway, take your time gutting and re-building the boat, your opportunity is now for use next season (2014). Do you have a place to work on it over the winter?
 
Woodonglass

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

Put some tape on the outside of the hull. As JNG says, grind the hull on the inside about 3-4" larger than the block area and then put a 2layers of csm and a layer or 1708 down each layer about 2" larger than the previous one. the resin will fill the Screw holes and then on the outside you can just use a dremmel to hollow it out a bit and fill with some gelcoat paste and then sand and buff out.
 
P

Peteypablo25

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
79
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

Tpen thanks for the info...and btw great website for your boats. I took a while to read through them. Pretty interesting and descriptive stuff. Thanks to everyone else for the help as well.

I took a ride to west marine and ran into a dilemma (one being the prices!). I was told by the manager that I need to bond several 1/4" pieces of ply together to build up the transom layer by layer. Again im trying to do this as inexpensively as possible.

Can I use 2 3/4" pieces for the transom or do I need to do as he said and bond multiple layers of 1/4"?

Also a big issue is the resin cost. Can I use polyester PB to bond the ply (glassed over) to the skin or do I NEED to use epoxy?

Its about half the cost to get the poly so id like to go that route if possible. I took a look at the inside surface of the outer skin know in and it appears to be uneven in the center section where the outboard motor mounts up. How do I account for that when installing the new transom. I will post some pictures soon to show what I mean.
 
P

Peteypablo25

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
79
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

Also...do I need 1.5" all the way across the transom or am I using 3/4" across the whole back and only doubling up where the motor mounts in the center. Sorry for all the questions. I thought I read through enough to figure this all out but I want to be sure before I start making purchases. THANKS AGAIN IN ADVANCE!
 
P

Peteypablo25

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
79
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

I realize its not ground down all the way yet but where you see that vertical line there is a slight difference in the thickness of the fiberglass itself. Maybe dome work was done previously. Not quiite sure.
 
tpenfield

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,149
Re: Newbies first project...transom stringers and floor!

Peteypablo25 said:
Tpen thanks for the info...and btw great website for your boats. I took a while to read through them. Pretty interesting and descriptive stuff. Thanks to everyone else for the help as well.

I took a ride to west marine and ran into a dilemma (one being the prices!). I was told by the manager that I need to bond several 1/4" pieces of ply together to build up the transom layer by layer. Again im trying to do this as inexpensively as possible.

Can I use 2 3/4" pieces for the transom or do I need to do as he said and bond multiple layers of 1/4"?

Also a big issue is the resin cost. Can I use polyester PB to bond the ply (glassed over) to the skin or do I NEED to use epoxy?

Its about half the cost to get the poly so id like to go that route if possible. I took a look at the inside surface of the outer skin know in and it appears to be uneven in the center section where the outboard motor mounts up. How do I account for that when installing the new transom. I will post some pictures soon to show what I mean.
Click to expand...

I would not go by what the manager at West Marine tells you. Most folks here on iBoats would go the 2 x 3/4" ply route . . . or possibly 3 x 1/2" ply route. And use PL Adhesive or resin to bond them together. Usually you see the transom core laminated to the proper thickness and then installed as a single piece.

I only go to West Marine, when I need something right away (and they have it).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top