The magneto timing mark for that model is set at 25? measured in straight line at both cranckcase mating surface. Adjusting arm linkrod and advancer arm stop are 2 separate adjustments. Have you moved any of them as to need to be placed back to specs ?
Happy Boating
Have you moved/played with magneto yellow Ball Joint from it's factory setting ? If so, will need to be readjusted to start with. If not, you're ok. If you want throttle grip with slight less idle end play, adjust idle stopper B CW untill timing mark matches 0?, after that will need to turn idle (vertical) screw at carb 1/2 to 3/4 CCW turn to lower rpm that have risen bit by moving timing from -3? to 0?. Adjust idle rpm to match 800 in gear, 950 at idle.
Once you have corrected all upper syncs, full wot, check if you have butterfly at 180? and if white roller turns freely with finger when rotating, if not, adjust cam rod height a bit with side screw to compensate.
Happy Boating
Which color is the yellow ball joint, white or black ? Both have different measurements from rod snap end to ball joint nut. The method I use is measured with a vernier tool ? Do you have one handy ? Have you played also with lower link rod and rod joint sync as shown in second pic, under number 3 ?
Happy Boating
Sorry, mental issues, was reffering to the other side of rod where there is a plastic support called Rod Snap. To understand, dark grey engines have white rod snaps, newer dark blue have black ones, black are bit longer and much easier to change than white ones, check pic for measurement. If white can have missing pic info tomarrow.
Happy Boating
Some issues:
1-Check settings if corresponds, if not, readjust to specs as close as possible.
2-Once adjusted or not, readjust timing mark to match 25? by means of upper stopper A.
3-When grip at wot, does white roller resting against upper cam rotates freely when turning with fingers ?
4-Adjust rod height to match this condition
5-Engine should run even at all throttle range.
If not and you have :
1-Carb completely clean previously soaked in reall cleaner dip.
2-Tank, fuel filters are inmaculate clean, o'ring connectors seal perfect against connector pick up.
3-Fuel pump diaphragams not cracked, dried, balloned. deformed.
4-Spark plugs are fresh and well gapped tight to 1.0 mm
This 13 year oldie seems needs a head gasket re torque to 30 NM if doesn't betters, head gasket is completely dried, hardened, letting very small water particles inside combustion chamber produce unwanted hesitation at different throttle range. Will do good to change carb 0'ring Part : 3C8020110M as could be old, flat, dried letting unwanted air in too.
Happy Boating
Thank you so much for your help. What does the NM stand for when you say torque to 30NM? I have replaced that carb O ring. I did soak carb in a carb dip for 4 hours and replaced all gaskets and plug. I will try what you have suggested above. Thanks again.
Will need to remove ignition coil from base to reach middle bolts. Torque all of them in the right sequence with torque wrench and lower 2 bolts which are difficult to reach with 1/2 "wrench. If re torquing doesn't solve the problem you need to change head gasket as has lost it's perfect seal, better remove complete crankcase from pan base, willl need to replace engine base gasket part 3506101211M as will be hardened and burned. Take advantage to clean all water passages, decarbon piston & head if needed, should work as a champ...
Happy Boating
Is lower tail rod completely free from upper shift rod joint, the round tube like where both meets ? If so, with a rubber mallet apply some bumps on different parts of tail to loosen down. Seems you are experimenting something like this :
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=542292
Happy Boating