No Fuel getting to Carburetor

[Mjanisse]

I recently bought a 1998 Bayliner Capri with a 3.0 Mercruiser. Boat ran great last season and was trailered with full tank of gas 6mos ago. I bought his house and the boat. The engine turns over but won't start. Checkes the carb and it dry and not getting any fuel. Tried priming with full throttle a couple of time with long cranks and nothing. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? Also not sure if boat was winterized how can I tell. I've read here that not doing so could Crack the block. Freeze plugs look good and only rust I see is on the waterpump pulley and and some on the top area of two spark plugs. Seems to be getting spark just no fuel. I should have prefaced that this is my 1st boat and definitely a newbie here. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[tank1949]

With a friend helping to crank, remove fuel line and put end into a coffee can or jug. Disconnect coil wires so it want try and start. Make sure muffs are on. You don't want to burn up water impeller. Crank ignition and look for gas going into can. If no gas, someone may have syphoned all gas out of tank or fuel pump is shot. Disconnect fuel line before pump and see if fuel is getting that far. If not, some older fuel tank pick up tubes have screens that clog (easy) and may need removal. Depending on tank's location or lack of access plate, you may have to cut out deck to pull out pickup tube. Sorry!!!!! I'd first see if I could syphon gas from tank just to be sure there is gas there. Theses older boat rubber fuel lines do not like alcohol gas blends and over time the lines may have partially dissolved or disintegrated and help plug filters, etc. Good luck!

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... The fuel problem could be anything 'tween the fuel tank, 'n the carb,......
Or either or both of 'em,.....

There's a block drain, down low, 'bout center of the block, portside,....
The manifold drain should be just above it, in the bottom of the manifold,.....
Remove 'em, 'n ya should see air, or antifreeze,.....

 

[Mjanisse]

I recently bought a 1998 Bayliner Capri with a 3.0 Mercruiser. Boat ran great last season and was trailered with full tank of gas 6mos ago. I bought his house and the boat. The engine turns over but won't start. Checkes the carb and it dry and not getting any fuel. Tried priming with full throttle a couple of time with long cranks and nothing. Could the fuel pump be the culprit? Also not sure if boat was winterized how can I tell. I've read here that not doing so could Crack the block. Freeze plugs look good and only rust I see is on the waterpump pulley and and some on the top area of two spark plugs. Seems to be getting spark just no fuel. I should have prefaced that this is my 1st boat and definitely a newbie here. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you. I'll get at it in the morning. I really appreciate the help.

 

[Mjanisse]

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... The fuel problem could be anything 'tween the fuel tank, 'n the carb,......
Or either or both of 'em,.....

There's a block drain, down low, 'bout center of the block, portside,....
The manifold drain should be just above it, in the bottom of the manifold,.....
Remove 'em, 'n ya should see air, or antifreeze,.....

Hoping to see one of the two. Thanks for the reply. Hope I can get her going. Back at it in the morning.

 

[Mjanisse]

With a friend helping to crank, remove fuel line and put end into a coffee can or jug. Disconnect coil wires so it want try and start. Make sure muffs are on. You don't want to burn up water impeller. Crank ignition and look for gas going into can. If no gas, someone may have syphoned all gas out of tank or fuel pump is shot. Disconnect fuel line before pump and see if fuel is getting that far. If not, some older fuel tank pick up tubes have screens that clog (easy) and may need removal. Depending on tank's location or lack of access plate, you may have to cut out deck to pull out pickup tube. Sorry!!!!! I'd first see if I could syphon gas from tank just to be sure there is gas there. Theses older boat rubber fuel lines do not like alcohol gas blends and over time the lines may have partially dissolved or disintegrated and help plug filters, etc. Good luck!

Thank you much appreciated.

 

[vroom ZOOM]

Ugh. These 3.0's always dry up over the winter. As mentioned, make sure you have gas in the tank. I like to unplug the rubber fuel line at the pump, and put in an outboard primer bulb, and pump it until fuel comes out. That should loosen up the anti siphon valve. While you're at it, remove the bowl from the pump and drain the crap from it, and replace the filter if it looks bad. Next what I like to do is remove the steel fuel line at the pump outlet, and use a syringe to fill it up with gas. The pumps tend to prime quicker with gas in them, rather than air. Next I also use my syringe to put fuel in the carb bowl through the vent. Then I put everything together (don't forget to remove the primer bulb), RUN THE BLOWER, and it should start. The fuel in the carb bowl should make it run long enough for the pump to prime itself. MAKE SURE there are no fuel fumes before you try to start it, and run the blower for 4 minutes before turning it over, especially after playing around with the fuel system. Just my 0.02.

 

[Mjanisse]

With a friend helping to crank, remove fuel line and put end into a coffee can or jug. Disconnect coil wires so it want try and start. Make sure muffs are on. You don't want to burn up water impeller. Crank ignition and look for gas going into can. If no gas, someone may have syphoned all gas out of tank or fuel pump is shot. Disconnect fuel line before pump and see if fuel is getting that far. If not, some older fuel tank pick up tubes have screens that clog (easy) and may need removal. Depending on tank's location or lack of access plate, you may have to cut out deck to pull out pickup tube. Sorry!!!!! I'd first see if I could syphon gas from tank just to be sure there is gas there. Theses older boat rubber fuel lines do not like alcohol gas blends and over time the lines may have partially dissolved or disintegrated and help plug filters, etc. Good luck!

Thank you. I got her going. Pulled the fuel lines and primed with fuel as suggested and she started up. I have a small water leak from the weep hole on the waterpump but other than that she ran good. Oil pressure was 30-40 slightly above idle. Oil was clean.. The tach seemed a little erratic so that needs to be looked into overall it seems to be a great boat (pending a lake run).

 

[Mjanisse]

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... The fuel problem could be anything 'tween the fuel tank, 'n the carb,......
Or either or both of 'em,.....

There's a block drain, down low, 'bout center of the block, portside,....
The manifold drain should be just above it, in the bottom of the manifold,.....
Remove 'em, 'n ya should see air, or antifreeze,.....

Thank you. I got her going. Pulled the fuel lines and primed with fuel as suggested and she started up. I have a small water leak from the weep hole on the waterpump but other than that she ran good. Oil pressure was 30-40 slightly above idle. Oil was clean.. The tach seemed a little erratic so that needs to be looked into overall it seems to be a great boat (pending a lake run).

 

[Mjanisse]

Ugh. These 3.0's always dry up over the winter. As mentioned, make sure you have gas in the tank. I like to unplug the rubber fuel line at the pump, and put in an outboard primer bulb, and pump it until fuel comes out. That should loosen up the anti siphon valve. While you're at it, remove the bowl from the pump and drain the crap from it, and replace the filter if it looks bad. Next what I like to do is remove the steel fuel line at the pump outlet, and use a syringe to fill it up with gas. The pumps tend to prime quicker with gas in them, rather than air. Next I also use my syringe to put fuel in the carb bowl through the vent. Then I put everything together (don't forget to remove the primer bulb), RUN THE BLOWER, and it should start. The fuel in the carb bowl should make it run long enough for the pump to prime itself. MAKE SURE there are no fuel fumes before you try to start it, and run the blower for 4 minutes before turning it over, especially after playing around with the fuel system. Just my 0.02.

Thank you. I got her going. Pulled the fuel lines and primed with fuel as suggested and she started up. I have a small water leak from the weep hole on the waterpump but other than that she ran good. Oil pressure was 30-40 slightly above idle. Oil was clean.. The tach seemed a little erratic so that needs to be looked into overall it seems to be a great boat (pending a lake run).

 

[Rick Stephens]

I would suggest that all the regular maintenance items need to be gone through before you head out on the lake. You cannot assume any of it was done in the last few years and all it takes is a small problem ignored to be a much more costly repair or worse, a safety issue.

 

[Mjanisse]

Agree 100%. Just glad I'm not towing a boat to a shop that doesn't run and I have no clue why. Would you recommend just taking it to a shop to have the waterpump changed and maintenance done now that I know the motor runs pretty good?

 

[Bondo]

Agree 100%. Just glad I'm not towing a boat to a shop that doesn't run and I have no clue why. Would you recommend just taking it to a shop to have the waterpump changed and maintenance done now that I know the motor runs pretty good?

Ayuh,..... Or,... Do it yerself,.....

 

[Wilfr_id]

Agree 100%. Just glad I'm not towing a boat to a shop that doesn't run and I have no clue why. Would you recommend just taking it to a shop to have the waterpump changed and maintenance done now that I know the motor runs pretty good?

Service regularly, just like a car)

 

[Rick Stephens]

Agree 100%. Just glad I'm not towing a boat to a shop that doesn't run and I have no clue why. Would you recommend just taking it to a shop to have the waterpump changed and maintenance done now that I know the motor runs pretty good?

Reason for being on this forum is to help each other do it ourselves. Boats are much much worse than cars as far as cost of parts and shop repairs. So we band together to pass on tips techniques on DIY repairs. All depends on how anal you are able to be whether that works for you. You gotta do it right or it will turn around and bite back, and that can both more expensive or an unacceptable safety issue.

 

[tank1949]

Thank you. I got her going. Pulled the fuel lines and primed with fuel as suggested and she started up. I have a small water leak from the weep hole on the waterpump but other than that she ran good. Oil pressure was 30-40 slightly above idle. Oil was clean.. The tach seemed a little erratic so that needs to be looked into overall it seems to be a great boat (pending a lake run).

boat may have developed corrosion on contacts. Look for green stuff and clean.