No spark 55 HP Evinrude triumph 1969

[Crosbyman]

ok in retrospect dieelectric grease is more for moisture in connectors and clamps no so much like true HV silicone...to stop arcing in old TV flyback transformers

give it a smell test burnt stuff usually smellls.. burnt

points looked real dirty ..........hopefully a good clean will help but that ampliifer is till suspect...:-(

 

[Mc Tool]

Im pretty sure those green coils are for the charging system and nowt to do with ignition . If by burnt you are refering to the brown discolouration on the top of some of those coils I say its just that ...discoloured due to age and possibly that green coating is thinner on the top . If that stator is between .1 and 1-2 ohm and not down to earth its probly fine .
I have just (yesterday) found that the stator charging harness plug had fried itself on my quad ( I was looking for something totally unrelated and saw it ), measured the stator ....all fine ,new plug , job done .
Dont be intimidated by these things as they are quite simple once you know, good on you for having a go

 

[sad boater]

Unfortunately I'm not that lucky, when I found the wires burnt I also found my rectifier and ignition coil cracked. From what I've read this setup was fickle very fickle so much so that in 1973 they completely changed the ignition system. The brown color was in the bottom and aligned with each spark plug wire. It tests fine as far as ohms.

 

[sad boater]

ok in retrospect dieelectric grease is more for moisture in connectors and clamps no so much like true HV silicone...to stop arcing in old TV flyback transformers

give it a smell test burnt stuff usually smellls.. burnt

points looked real dirty ..........hopefully a good clean will help but that ampliifer is till suspect...:-(

Yes they were dirty and a little bit out of adjustment. I got them cleaned but haven't put it back together yet. I've decided since in in it I'm going to replace the distributor and wires they are old and feel a little brittle. I'm going to do my best to not have to do this again. I'm also leaning towards the amplifier, after I put the top back together I'm going to do the tap test to see if I get spark apparently that the only way to tell if it's good. I don't smell anything burnt smelling......The adventure continues....

 

[jimmbo]

Was the Breaker Plate and top of engine Block Oily?

 

[sad boater]

Was the Breaker Plate and top of engine Block Oily?

No the only part the was oily was the little oil wick that rides on the crankshaft. Very little grease located around the anti reversing spring ( as the manual describes).

 

[sad boater]

Was the Breaker Plate and top of engine Block Oily?

Is it supposed to be?? I was reading through the manual and it says I'm supposed to use OMC type D marine lubricant on the anti reversing spring. However it appears to have a thin type of grease present on the spring currently(I have not cleaned it off) according to Google the type D lubricant is a gearcase oil specific to the electric shift lower units. Is this correct?? Am I supposed to put a small amount of gear oil on that spring? That doesn't seem right to me, it seems like it should be a light grease. However I was a diesel mechanic not a boat mechanic so I honestly don't know.

 

[racerone]

???----Type C is the gearcase oil !

 

[sad boater]

???----Type C is the gearcase oil !

Ok then what is type D??? Why leave me hanging without an answer???

 

[Crosbyman]

Sometimes just asking an intelligent AI platform can provide some valuable info .. not always 100% but pretty good

what is OMC type D marine lubricant

OMC Type D Marine Lubricant is a specific gear oil used in older outboard motors made by Outboard Marine Corporation (OMC), which included brands like Evinrude and Johnson.

What it is​

• A gearcase (lower unit) lubricant
• Designed for marine outboard gearboxes
• Typically used in pre-1970s to early 1980s OMC engines

Key characteristics​

• Medium-weight gear oil (roughly comparable to SAE 80)
• Formulated for:
  • Water resistance
  • Anti-wear protection
  • Corrosion protection in marine environments

Important note (modern equivalent)​

OMC Type D is obsolete today. It has been replaced by newer formulations:

• Modern replacement:
  OMC/BRP Hi-Vis gearcase lubricant (or any marine gear oil 80W-90 GL-5)

From Bombardier Recreational Products (BRP) — the current owner of Evinrude — the recommended upgrade is their newer gear oil.

Practical advice​

For your older outboard (like your late-60s Evinrude 55 HP you’ve been working on):

• You can safely use:
  • 80W-90 marine gear oil
  • or BRP “Hi-Vis” gear lube
• Do not use automotive gear oil unless it’s explicitly labeled marine

 

[sad boater]

According to racerone that is incorrect. So I'm at a loss on this one. It has a light coat of clear/brown grease, not oil.

 

[Crosbyman]

you can make this as complex as you wish. I think you should fix the spark problem and worry about grease and oil after. You are working on a 57 year old engine and things and products haved evolved... greasing a spring should not be a major problem. Become a happy boater.

 

[sad boater]

you can make this as complex as you wish. I think you should fix the spark problem and worry about grease and oil after. You are working on a 57 year old engine and things and products haved evolved... greasing a spring should not be a major problem. Become a happy boater.

The issues with that is if I get it fixed without the proper lubricant I will have to disassemble it again. As a mechanic I strive to do things only once. The spring can kill my spark so in my head it can be an issue not being lubricated. I do understand what you are saying though. I'm waiting for parts anyway so I was hoping to have the right answer for the spring before the pats arrive.

 

[racerone]

Use a sticky high temperature grease on the spring.

 

[Mc Tool]

The issues with that is if I get it fixed without the proper lubricant I will have to disassemble it again. As a mechanic I strive to do things only once. The spring can kill my spark so in my head it can be an issue not being lubricated. I do understand what you are saying though. I'm waiting for parts anyway so I was hoping to have the right answer for the spring before the pats arrive.

Dude, 57 years ago OMC recommended their wonderful lube .....mostly because they wanted more of your money ,reality is that even back then there were alternatives that would work fine ( remember omc dont make grease ....they buy it off someone else and repackage it to show their brand ) . If your a mechanic I bet my last beer that you already have a perfectly suitable grease in your cave . I dont even know what this spring is ...never seen one but I am sure I would have used my superlube synthetic grease if I came across one that needed a wee dab of sommat .....sez its waterproof ....tiz grease ,and its sticky.

 

[Crosbyman]

I doubt grease in itself help ignition being an insulator anyway there are several high temperature grease products on amazon. Some by Permatex good to -46C to + 1650 C

 

[racerone]

The grease is to lubricate the spring to reduce wear.-----this spring lightly grips the crankshaft.----Should the crank rotate backwards the spring rotates against a contact and stops the ignition.----Oh so simple !

 

[Crosbyman]

You are surely correct as I have never worked on one of those and many more. yet I truly think this rabbit can wait. I will let op continue on his journey as I await the happy ending.