No spark Nbr 1 cyl, tach quit working

Oldpos

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 16, 2019
Messages
112
long story- I have a 1990 force 90hp on a Bayliner Capri 1800 that I bought last month. Took it out first time and ran like bat out of hell all the way down the lake. I bounced across a wake when I throttled back for a no wake zone. When I went to throttle back up the engine was only making about a third of the power. I brought it home found floating sticking on top carb. Replaced needle and fuel pump diaphram. Took it back to lake no help, but noticed this time the tach wasn’t working and I know it did when engine ran good. I changed all three spark plugs no help, under load I pulled each plug wire one by one and hooked back up before moving to next one. Pulling top plug wire made no difference, second plug wire engine ran like crap but did run, pilling third wire killed engine. I swapped top and bottom coils, ran again with exact same results. Stator had a light grey color covering unevenly each coil on stator but the copper looked bright and shinny.

How is do I know if it’s a trigger, stator, or diode?
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,588
Check out Outboardignitiondotcom.
They have a troubleshooting chart.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,072
Try unhooking the tach.
Sometimes that helps??

If not get a meter and test like Nordin suggested.
 

Oldpos

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 16, 2019
Messages
112
I tested the rectifier per recommendation and it’s good, but the stator I can’t find the right testing for. I have 6 wires two solid yellow, two brown and blue, two brown and yellow. Also i keep seeing threads about checking the trigger wire? Which one is that? Looks like the triggger asst has another 6 wires coming out of it
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,072
outboardignitiondotcom for testing the stator.

Trigger: the 6 wires are very thin and can break easily.
A good bump can break one :(

The connectors all have shrinkwrap on the connection joint.
The wire can break under the shrinkwrap.
Try pulling the end at the buss bar.
Not a lot of pressure just a good tug.

If I have a lot of trouble I just go ahead and replace ALL the connectors.
Even the ones from the stator and packs.
 

Oldpos

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 16, 2019
Messages
112
Thanks all for the help? Don’t know what happened but it ended up being the ground side of the rectifier was bad, the power wires to Nbr 1 ignition box from stator bad and both channels from Nbr 1 ignition box bad. Bought a siezed motor from Facebook classifieds for $120, swApped parts and was boating all weekend!
 
Top