The top 2 have no spark. All 4 coils test good with similar readings. The 2 with no spark share the same ground but I undid it and it looks/seems fine.
Mercury Classic 50 #0A959445
What next?
I'm also chasing one of these on a 1980 with type V ignition. On mine, bottom 2 are out.
I swapped trigger wires to switchbox and problem followed. I have a thread out now asking if that means trigger assembly is out. Appears that if switchbox gets a signal it can process it on through to the spark plug so I think in my case the trigger assembly is bad.
Faztbullet?
Thank you,
J
With type V ignition, I've verified my problem is a bad trigger.
Spec values of resistance between trigger leads, wht/blk to brn OR wht to vio, should be 700 to 1k ohms. One of mine is 830+, nice, the other is an open circuit.
Bad trigger assembly.
J
So I bought a CDI based on earlier replies.
But I figured I'd look into the trigger(s) before opening the CDI so I can return it in case it's not the problem.
Instructions to test the stator say to swap the Red with Red/White and the Blue with Blue/White. If the problem moves then a stator is bad. If no change then test trigger(s)
I don't have any wires going to the Red or Red/White (see photo in 1st post) They have block-off screws in them. Why? And so how do I test my stator(s)?
I used your specs. to test the triggers and got over 700 ohms on both. So I guess the triggers are good.
I swapped trigger wires #1 for #3 and #2 for #4. Instructions says if changes replace trigger(s). If same replace pack (CDI, I assume). The problem moved. So I guess it's not the CDI. So it must be the stator(s) because the triggers tested ok and the only unknown is the stator test?
So I'll try to figure out how to test the stator(s).
So my stator only has 4 wires coming out of it. 2 greenish and 2 yellowish.
The greens read @ 700 and the yellows @ 14. Good, right?
The 2 greens go into a pencil case sized box and come out as blues that go to the switch box. The yellows go to the battery, I assume?
So I guess the only thing left to test is the blues at the switch box. How to test that?
What is the pencil case sized box? Could that be the problem? I don't see it on Mercury's parts drawings.
The blues must be working if you have spark. That's the stator coils feeding voltage to the switch box to be rectified and built up for firing. I think you're gonna have to open and try the CDI switch box.
The pencil case must be an upgrade. I really do not know how it works. Are there 3 wires coming out to the switch box? Where do the 3 wires on the right side of the switch box come from?
It seems the provided CDI test is with blues providing one cylinder's input and reds the other but with the present coil the green leads are for charging the switch box and yellows are for charging the battery. Follow the yellow to see if they go to a rectifier. I wonder how the red and blue wire stators accommodated battery charging. Do the instructions indicate if they were a 6 wire stator?
Are the CDI switch box wire color markings the same as the merc? If so, I think you gotta try it.
J
So... I have the Blu, Blu/Yel, and Blu/Wht. at the pack that haven't been tested. Is there a test to tell me if the stator adapter or the pack is faulty?
Yes! The red stator. Upgrade or cost-down ... "you decide". lol
Check the resistance across those leads. Other coil tests look for resistance values that are neither shorts nor opens. I dont know spec values but you can at least determine if you have these conditions to be questioned.
J
Ok. Check the resistance of the wires coming out of the adapter? They should match what's coming out of the stator and into the adapter (@ 700)?
And if that checks out then the CDI is the problem?
