No Spark

Allensr6

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When the problem started I went out too warm the motor up. Put the muffs on and cranked it and it idled for approx 5 minutes then just quit. I started it again and again it idled for a few minutes then quit. Reyes cranking again and it would do nothing but turn over. Bought the tester too check for spark and no spark on either plug. Even held my finger too coil while my son turned the motor over and nothing. When all this was going on I was on the boat and no switch got hit or anything. Is there a way I can find out if it was switch from a tiller?
 

Allensr6

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Is there something on the motor that would leave evidence of a kill switch? Maybe certain color of wires I can disconnect or mane trace back? Thanks again for the help!
 

Gibsonman2005

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maybe you can find parts diagram manual online for your motor. I found one for my 61 evinrude and it was free..just printed it out. Id start there and look for the kill switch. Not sure about a 2000 or newer model but in the old stuff it's just a connected/disconnected type actuation for the kill. May be as simple as a loose ground wire someplace too.
Also, are you certain it was pulling in water? If impeller is shot then an overheating could cut the motor.
 

Fed

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The kill wire is usually a black/yellow that runs from the powerpack to the ignition switch.
When you turn the ignition switch to OFF all it does is ground the black yellow.
Find the powerpack and follow the black yellow wire, aside from going to the ignition switch it may branch off and also go to where the kill switch used to be.

Is/was it a tiller motor converted?

Having no spark could also be caused by something else but the kill wire is as good a place as any to start.
 

Fed

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I see your motor also has a single coil pack so check its grounding properly too.
 

Allensr6

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Defiantly was pulling water for sure. I change impeller myself ever summer. Just know nothing about electrical. Gonna take you all a options and work on dealing with the mystery kill switch tommorrow. I will post back my findings. Thank you all and will go from there.
 

lmuss53

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Go to the CDI Electronics website and find the CDI box for your motor. There are troubleshooting guides there to help you find out which of your components has failed.

I dug it out for you.

http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs...guide_-_2012_1

The link is to the 2 cylinder engine section, you need a DVA meter or adapter to check stators, you can't do it without one.

Try disconnecting the yrllow black wire at the CDI terminal strip first. That wire is the kill switch wire and if you unground it the engine will run if everything is working. BE PREPARED to be able to touch it to ground or you can't shut down the engine, you cant choke your's out either, you'd have to literally cover the throttle body with something to choke it out.

If you have a faulty kill switch somewhere unhooking that wire will bypass the kill circuit, The ignition switch runs through the same wire too,so you have to reattach it to stop the motor,

The link is just taking you to the troubleshooting guide, you want the section on Johnson Evinrude 2 stroke 2 cylinders from 1977 up, it's about page 40 or 41.

Mine had similar issues a few years back, turned out to be the timer base.

If you are not comfortable troubleshooting this all out and deciding which parts to buy I would suggest going to a pro sooner rather than later after you throw a bunch of parts and money at it.

Show a picture of the whole dash, that switch is there somewhere, kinda looks like that horn button, but a little different.

Has this motor been running all summer long or are you just getting it out for the year?

There is a higher level of expertise in the Johnson/Evinrude motor section of the forums, you might ask a mod to move your question over there, you;ll get guys who are more familiar with this issue on this motor. PM a mod and ask if you want it moved.
 
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Allensr6

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No Title

Can somebody tell me what this is. After all I think the problem may be the fuel pump. Thanks!
 

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Allensr6

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Can somebody please tel me what that part is? After all I did have spark. I'm not getting fuel! Maybe fuel pump?
 

Fed

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It's the fuel primer solenoid valve. Put power on it by pushing the key in, used instead of choke butterflies.

When energized it opens and allows fuel to go straight into the intake manifold.

The red lever is currently in the normal run position which is correct, if you turn the red lever 90 degrees that opens the valve manually but that is only used for a cold rope start.
 

Allensr6

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You are FRIGGN awesome! So with that that wouldn't have anything too do with the plugs being dry?
 

Fed

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Nope, it's only used for initial start up.

Although it sounds like the fuel pump because of the 5 minutes running what happened to the "NO SPARK"?

You can pump the rubber primer bulb when it's running which will act as a fuel pump.
 

Allensr6

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Well I checked the spark at night and it was sparking. Sparking fine! Totally my bad for that info. And I'm trying too crank it whil pumping the bulb. Build stays hard but still won't crank. Fuel is making it through the the filter just fine. Is there a way too check the fuel pump?
 

GA_Boater

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Moved this into the Johnson-Evinrude forum. This is a motor problem, not boat-side electrical.
 

Fed

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Won't crank or won't run?

I thought it was cranking fine then running for 5 minutes???

Crank=Starter motor turning over.
Run= Engine running.
 

Allensr6

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Ok it won't run. It turns over just fine. I pump the bulb but it just turn over. I pull the plugs and they are bone dry. I took one of the lines of that goes too the upper carburetor and pump the bulb and fuel comes out fine. The no spark issue was Mia identified by my my apologies but is defiantly a fuel issue. Carbs was cleaned last yr and it ran fine all summer till now.
 

Fed

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Are you using the choke by pushing the key in while you're cranking the motor over?
Is the choke working, if you turn the key to the RUN position then push it IN you should hear the primer solenoid valve CLICK.
 

1983 ercoa 21'

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When you test the spark are you checking it with a gap tester with a 7/16 gap ? If it don't jump that gap something is wrong.
 
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