no spark

[paedbo]

1972 evinrude 125hp,<br /><br />I have no spark on any cylinders. I dont know if its the coil the pulse pack or something under the fly wheel ( points etc ) I did a search on forum to see if i could find pinouts for the pulse pack or see if there was a way i could test voltages and ohms, It did this to me before, but after about a half hour of messing with it ( ie removing coil and cleaning up ground screws and putting it back ) it started up but i have a feeling what i did had nothing to do with it starting , that morning it was rainy and the afternoon was hot, today was the same thing , rainy yesterday and hot and sunny today, I have a manual i looked through it real quick to see if it has any tests for the aqua power corporation pulse pack part no 1640<br /><br />Can someone tell me what i should try testing first? how can i check the coil also if im going to need a pulse pack does anyone have one for sale.<br /><br /><edited in after posting><br />ok the search finally worked i found some info i guess i cant test the power pack however i forgot to mention that when the powerpack is connected and the key is in the on position i hear a very faint ticking coming from the engine ( possibly around stator area) when i dissconnect the power pack it goes away) So im going to try to test to see if the overheat sensor went bad hopefully my manual tells me how its a seloc manual (sigh)<br /><br />Thanks <br /><br />Paul

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: no spark

Paul.... The following may be of use to you.<br /><br />(Battery Capacitance Dischage Powerpack Test) (Various OMC Engines - 1968 to 1972)<br /><br />Purchase a small 12v bulb at your local automotive parts store (the 12v bulb is to look like a flashlight bulb, not a headlight bulb). Solder two wires to that bulb, one to the side of the bulb (ground), and the other to the positive point. <br /><br />Remove the spark plugs. With the key in the on position, make sure that you have 12v going to the pack at the terminal block (purple wire). Now, connect the ground wire from the bulb to any powerhead ground. Connect the wire from the positive point of that bulb to the powerpack wire that is connected to the coil wire on the terminal board (blue wire). <br /><br />Crank the engine and observe that bulb closely (CLOSELY!). If that bulb glows even the slightest bit, the powerpack is okay. It may be a very dim glow... just so it glows! If it doesn't glow, the pack has failed. <br /><br />Keep in mind, that type powerpack (Battery Capacitance Discharge) demands a top notch battery of at least 70 amp hours. Any less will, in time, cause powerpack failure.

 

[paedbo]

Re: no spark

wow thank you very much for the quick response i deeply appreciate it, <br /><br /> I went out there to try to test it with a few tests i found in the seloc manual its saying i have a sensor under the fly wheel does this mean i dont have points?? <br /><br /> Anyways i went to crank the engine over to do the test and it decided to start working again ( uggh) now i have to wait till tomorrow to see what's up. <br /><br /> However after it started working again i shut it off and heard an aweful buzzing noise (engine not running but key was on ) coming from under the fly wheel when i would disconnect the power pack the noise would go away ( i think its the sensor thats buzzing) could this mean the sensor might be going bad? While it was buzzing i turned the engine over again and it did start right up , but after i shut it down again the buzzing sound was gone.<br /><br /> the seloc manual has a test for the sensor which im going to try, but the manual only shows 2 wires going to it, but yet when i look at the plug there are 2 black with stripe wires and one green wire going up to the stator area which is confusing me because the schematic isnt showing it) <br /> I have a brand new heavy duty battery i bought for it. but this year when i first tried to get it running i noticed it was turning over very slowly and i knew it was amperage problems due to corrosion on the wires, so i went out and bought some lugs for the battery terminals crimped them on and the thing turns over like a son of a gun now. ( btw thats the last thing i did before this new problem occured )<br /><br />One more thing i noticed, i had one of the plug wires off and a screwdriver in it wedged so it would be 1/4 inch from ground so i would see if at any time it got spark. When it decided to work again i noticed something funny. Right after the engine stopped cranking, i saw the spark jumping from the screwdriver to ground repeatedly at very very high speed ( but yet the engine wasnt running) and it lasted for a few seconds before it stopped my only guess at this is <br />1 .the sensor is sending false signal even though crank is not turning,<br />2.one of the wires is shorted, <br />3. The pulse pack is bad and sending the signal to the coil by itself.<br /><br />Again thanks alot for your quick response its nice to know theres still people out there willing to give a helping hand wish i could return the favor sometime.

 

[paedbo]

Re: no spark

ok this is what i did today, i took the 12volt light out of my interior on my car i wired that up to terminal board screw that connects the pulse pack with the coil i turned it over with the key on, no light. now the funny stuff started happening again, i stopped turning it over and all of a sudden the light was blinking continuously i turned the fly wheel by hand it didnt stop, i manually moved the arm that advances the timing that has the wires going to/from the sensor the light would start flickering sporatically (sp) and even glow brighter than normal at times, but when i would stop moving the arm the light would go back to a smooth rhythm of flickers. One of my sensor wires might be shorted out? The manual is telling me that a common spot for trouble with those wires from the sensor is along that advanced timer arm that the wires go inside Im going to take ohm meter and try to figure out which 2 of the 3 wires going to the stator assembly are actually for the sensor I should not get any continuity from either wire to ground right?<br /><br /><edited it later in the day ><br /><br />I'm just adding on to my post after further testing, I pulled on the wires going into the pulse pack while cranking it over and i would get the bulb to light showing it was sending spark signal to coil. i would let go of the wires and the bulb would go out. i pulled the cdi apart to see if i could get to the solders of where all the wires lead to test for continuity from the boot end. i scraped off the rubber coating on the bottom of the board, tests came out fine though while wiggling them all they would always have continuity. i put the power pack back on the mounts and turned the engine over again and pulled on the wires again and noticed the circuit board inside bends slightly as i pull the wires ( and then i get spark signal) as soon as i let go of the wires and the board straightens out i lose spark. So i guess im going to have to replace the pulse pack, i have heard of people converting over to points im mechnaically inclined but im assuming thats going to throw off my timing etc and might just be more work for me then trying to find a cdi unit. And with it having the sensor unit under the fly wheel i guess theres no alternative for me to look into with automotive modules.<br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />Paul