Re: No Tell Tale?
Jennie.... I've just read over all of the 29 posts and also watched your video. If that were my engine, I would go to the trouble to do the following to eliminate the problem areas although you have already performed some of the steps at least once.
Remove the powerhead from the long exhaust housing upon which it sits, and remove the cylinder head.
Remove the lower unit, then dismantle the water pump.
This gives you complete access to all areas of the water passage areas excepting the exhaust baffle area on the starboard side of the powerhead.
Lower unit: Check the incoming water passage to the water pump for blockage. check that your "new" impeller is still in "new" condition. If the impeller housing and/or plate is pitted or scored bad, they should be replaced to avoid air pocket problems... however if they're usable, use a sticky type sealer substance to seal the impeller plate to the lower unit and the housing to the plate. Bombardier 3M Product #847 sealer, available at your dealership is preferred. This assures that the water pump is a sealed unit with clear passages. Also look closely at the water tube grommet as a common error is that when installing the lower unit, the edge of the water tube has been known to hit the edge of the rubber grommet and as one shoves the lower unit upwards, the grommet folds downwards which effectively creates a shut off valve.
Powerhead: Double check all water passages with steel probes and compressed air, making sure that the water passages are clear from the powerhead base water inlet hole thru and into the cylinder cooling water passageways. Check the cylinder head water cooling areas also. Check the sealing surfaces of the cylinder head and block for worn burnt areas. If any burnt worn areas exist, that would allow the combustion to enter the water passage area to create a stalemate... combustion power going down, water coming up, the two meet and can go no further.
Look closely at the sealing surface of where the water enters the bottom of the powerhead. That area must be perfect for the water pressure to flow into the powerhead and not escape to elsewhere. If all is well, re-install the gasket if it is still in good condition and tighten the cylinder head to factory torque specifications in the following sequence.
9...10
5....6
1....2
4....3
8....7
Long Exhaust Housing: Check to make sure that the same sealing surface of the water outlet that mates up to the powerhead water inlet is also perfect. Check the water passage down thru that outlet passageway, thru the water tube grommet and tube in both directions. Also make sure that grommet has not been folded over by the water tube.
The above covers everything (There is no thermostat).
Install the powerhead, using gasket sealer on a new base gasket. Gasket sealer comes in a small can (automotive store) that has a small brush attached to its screw off cap. Install the lower unit, making sure that the water tube slides into the greased water tube grommet as it should. Now, raise that water barrel about 2"... and with the water level a couple inches above the water pump, that should do it.
Water should shoot out that outlet hole halfway down the long exhaust housing with quite a steady force.
Let us know what happens.
