yeah typically Ive seen with a 140 thermostat the engine runs 150-155, my newer boat with a 160 is 170-175 depending on lake temp. If you have an IR gun check temps, likely the gauge is a little inaccurate- they are just made for an in the ballpark indication.
Gotcha, i was reading online about the 140 and 160, originally i had bought the 140 but sent it back due to the fact that i was seeing everyone else with 160’s for lake use.
I will give them a look.
I had to drill a hole in each plastic intake plate on my outdrive for the wire to pass through (Mercruiser MC-1). The intake holes themselves don't work due to internal interference. But there is clearance if one drills holes in the plastic , which is what one has to do.
Fire sure they are in the system. If you have ps they will be in the cooler, otherwise end up in thermostat housing. Best to use oem impellers in my experince. If exhaust got hot water tube maybe have melted rubber ends and fallen off or was misplaced when reassembled. If water wasn’t flowing up to engine exhaust will be hot and melt every thingToday I had the same problem you had, steam coming out from the center of the prop with the ear muffs on, I shut her down after a few minutes, the temp climbed to 175. I then took the lower end off and found my impeller was wiped out (pic below), and also oddly the water tube was laying in the bottom of the lower end. Argghh. I'm thinking the water tube fell off, I'm not sure what happened. Regardless im changing the impeller tomorrow. I just hope there's no pieces of rubber that's gonna clog the system. Here's a pic of the wiped out impeller.
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Everything looked good, no melting etc. I don't use a T Stat, so I guess that's one less thing to worry about with respect to clogging up there.
You should use the thermostat! Your engine is running cold all the time. You know the most wear on any motor is when its cold!
I didn't know this, my engine is a rebuilt 1985 Mercruiser 140 HP it's not a newer engine. Does it make a difference?
Nope. You want the engine up to operating temp. Oil thins with heat; what oil to use is partially based on what temp the crankcase will be operating at, hence old engines like my 1976 Mercruiser 888 (302) calling out three different weights depending on water temps (as back then, good multiweight oils didn't exist yet). Even with multiweight oils, they still have temperature-dependent viscosity (just not as extreme as a straight grade oil).
water outlet tube either on end of plastic pump housing or up in underside of upper where water tube lands. might be better to start your own thread vs clogging this one
ran it for about 10 minutes at the lake at idle, and it never got above 150ish, i did end up getting the oem muffs for when i want to start it at home. I am still getting the white smoke and rough idle even at the lake, gonna rebuild my carb and hope. Where you also getting a rough idle?Today I had the same problem you had, steam coming out from the center of the prop with the ear muffs on, I shut her down after a few minutes, the temp climbed to 175. I then took the lower end off and found my impeller was wiped out (pic below), and also oddly the water tube was laying in the bottom of the lower end. Argghh. I'm thinking the water tube fell off, I'm not sure what happened. Regardless im changing the impeller tomorrow. I just hope there's no pieces of rubber that's gonna clog the system. Here's a pic of the wiped out impeller.
View attachment 406881
A couple of things maybe to look at before diving into carb
I have not done any of this, I will look at it all before hand, thanks!
This exact order?
