Nola Mike's 3.7/470 --> 4.3L swap thread

Scott Danforth

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Mahle is a good gasket as well. (Hint, its OEM)
 

nola mike

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Doh. You edited your answer. However, I called Fel-pro and summit. Both said they didn't offer vortec marine HG? Where are you seeing that the 17010 is vortec? Application is listed as '85-'18 or some foolishness.
 

nola mike

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I've used mahle for years since they're OEM for many of the germans. My only concern is that the coolant flow isn't different on the head gaskets between auto and marine, and that they won't rust out. I found an exhaust gasket set that included riser and manifold, so not concerned about that anymore.
 

Scott Danforth

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Doh. You edited your answer. However, I called Fel-pro and summit. Both said they didn't offer vortec marine HG? Where are you seeing that the 17010 is vortec? Application is listed as '85-'18 or some foolishness.

the head gasket is the same regardless of the combustion chamber and the number of holes for the manifold

however, yes, I did edit my post because I was reading the fine-print and realized that the intake manifold gaskets were for a 12-bolt intake. hence the reason I removed the link to the 17211

the 17010 is listed to cover 4.3's from 1985 on

FYI...

I also spent 15 minutes on the phone to ask why summit changed their web site in the past 2 weeks. you can no longer search by make/engine. The guy was honest with his answer, they have a young guy in marketing that said they needed to change the website.

I told the guy I will no longer use the summit web site because it is now as useful as a hello-kitty video and windows 10 and i will be calling in from now on
 

nola mike

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You are a grumpy old guy. Oh, ok. Only the intake manifold is different. Either way I'll order the mahle. Got felpro head bolts as well. I need to stop hemorrhaging money today. And looking up parts is taking me more time than doing the damn work.
 

Scott Danforth

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You are a grumpy old guy. ......... I need to stop hemorrhaging money today.............And looking up parts is taking me more time than doing the damn work.

Yes
Let us know how that works
Yes
 

Lou C

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Try jeg’s website it appears to work much better. It looks like you can use the fel pro marine HGs for the 4.3 regardless of whether or not it is pre vortec or vortec, and on the jegs site they have 2 versions of the Clevite Mahle intake gaskets for the vortec 4.3, one more basic and one that looks to be better quality.
 

Scott Danforth

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Try jeg’s website it appears to work much better.

Lou..... I have been buying from Summit for 30 years, I think I still have about $100 in gift certs I need to spend. my experience with Jegs was iffy a few times.

Summit has always been there with rock-solid customer service. hard to turn away from that.

my guess they hired the VB 5 guys to "upgrade" their website....
 

nola mike

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Hopefully going to get things rolling on the motor side tomorrow. Got a ton of parts, so I know I'll be missing a bunch....
Anyway, first question is plugs. I came up with different numbers depending on Merc v gm application, going with Merc since efi might use different plug. Bondo mentioned an alloy plug from an old question if mine,

"I think all the salt water is getting through the sun pad and leaking onto the motor. Ayuh,.... The marine rated, with the "M" in the part number, AC Delco spark plugs are a ssteel Alloy body,......"


Are we talking about ac-mr43lts?

​​​​​​​Also, head tightening mentions long/medium/short bolts. I remember short being on the outside, don't remember medium/long. I assume long bolts would be closest to the middle of the motor?
 

nola mike

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Super frustrating day. Figured out the bolts, but...
Apparently all my tools are at the river, even though that's the exact reason I have at least 2 of everything.

1. Ran into problem #1 when switching over the crank pulley. The balancer on the new engine has a protruding lip that the serp belt pulley fits inside of. The v-belt pulley lies flat on the old balancer. If I put the v-belt pulley on the new balancer, the bolts aren't long enough and the pulley is just seated on the edge of the balancer. I imagine this pushes everything out the width of the lip, which will screw up the alignment with the other pulleys (haven't checked that yet though). Do I just get longer bolts, and spacers (if needed) for the other pulleys? Can I use the car serp pulleys all around instead? Other ideas?
2. There's an oil cooler adapter on the oil filter housing. Does *not* want to come off. Held on by torx bolts. T30 is loose, T40 doesn't fit. T35 is a unicorn size that doesn't exist locally. I'm not sure if that's the actual size, but I've got a few torx sets, and none have a T35.
3. Apparently both of my 3/8 torque wrenches are elsewhere. 1/4" not enough for the head bolts, 1/2" too much. So heads couldn't go on.
4. Worst part of the day: Started cleaning stuff up to paint. Got to the exhaust manis, and...pics below :( These are pricey.

Well, maybe no pics? Website issue? Spoiler alert, both manis cracked. Hard to envision the pulley without a pic...Try a google link instead

https://photos.app.goo.gl/34YB7oDhzeNt62JF6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2VCDVCvY45GVtckn6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7mUDCqJSTjDLmnEs8
 
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nola mike

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Done, and a keg of a steam ipa brewing... But don't help with the above. Nothing worse than not having the right tools and spending time at the store instead of getting something done. I'm worried about the pulleys though,I can't think of a good solution. And of course another $500+. I want to go boating.
 

Scott Danforth

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Mike,

post a pic of both balancers. the good news is there are plenty of balance shaft compatible balancers to pick from.
 

nola mike

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The pics are above with the google links. Yeah, with the clarity of a new day I realized that I should be able to swap the balancers--was concerned about changing rotating assembly parts between the engines, but since they're both balance shaft...
 

Scott Danforth

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if both motors are balance shaft, the only difference may be the length of the balancer bit that rides on the crank snout.

there is 1/4" length that accounts for the crank trigger ring on the 96 and later
 

Lou C

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For new manifolds take a look at Barr Marine, I got the whole kit for my 4.3 from Lighthouse Marine here in Long Island, about $720 or so. Pricey but made in USA and fit perfect. I give you credit, that’s a project you got going on there! Can’t wait to see it running!
 

nola mike

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Yeah, when this guy didn't winterize, he meant it. Couldn't see the cracks since they were facing the engine. Risers still look OK, so I'm going to price out separate v. a whole kit. Bright spot is that my goal in this was to basically have a dead reliable motor when I was done, and I was nervous about 30 yo manis in brackish water anyway, I've been looking at 4.3 bowriders in my area, and the floor is $12k for a 2000 era boat, so I'm still way ahead of the game.


Went back today quickly, and we'll see if I've made an even *bigger* project for myself. Found a balancer puller and install kit. Put the crank bolt back in to push on, but the tool then wouldn't fit. The adapter also didn't fit, so I got impatient again and pushed directly on the crank. Realized after the fact why I didn't want to do that. Bolt now won't go back in, so I assume I mushroomed the threads. Visually they look OK. Hopefully I didn't ruin my crankshaft. Going to try to tap it, but of course my tap kit is not here. I also managed to get those oil adapter bolts out with a proper T40 socket and some persuasion to get it to fit. I'm trying to drop the oil pan to just take a look at everything and replace the gasket, but I need some external torx bits that I don't have (see a pattern?).

I didn't plan on doing anything with the timing chain, since apparently the composite cover needs to be replaced on removal, blah, blah. How big of a trouble spot is that? Is it worth the hassle at this point? Again, I want to get on the water, and keep on diving down rabbit holes. I could do this indefinitely.

Scott Danforth , I didn't look too closely at the balancers after I realized my F up. So I understand the reluctor ring for the crankshaft trigger is somewhere in that area...What changed in '96? If it's a different sized snout, is there a new balancer that I could buy that would fit properly?
 

Scott Danforth

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in 96 they added the internal about 1/4" thick reluctor ring between the lower timing chain pulley and the damper for the crank trigger

ado-10190917_ml.jpg


since you are carb'd, toss the reluctor in the garbage and use a new version of the old damper with your pulleys/brackets/etc

or if you already installed it, mill 1/4" off your damper length, or try to fish out the little reluctor ring.

....by persuasion on the T40...... assuming it looked like a 32 oz ball peen?
 
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