non fiberglassed sandwiched transom repair

[Josh9685]

HI<br />there is a post similar to this, but with no definite responses. <br />I have a boat setup like the one in that post.<br />It is a 75 Wreidt jet boat.<br />It appears that there is no fiberglass skin inside the boat. there is wood(rotted wood) and then the outer hull of the boat.<br /><br />so, is it in fact possible to just chip out the old wood and glue in new wood? if so, what kind of glue/epoxy would I need to use? Should I glass over the top of it to create an inner skin?<br /><br /><br />I am very intriged! I thought that all boats had an inner skin and that my boat was just messed up!

 

[crab bait]

Re: non fiberglassed sandwiched transom repair

if you can 'chip-out' the old an not disturb the outter skin,, go for it.. but chances are slim..<br /><br />with epoxy,, fiberglass doesn't really make a big deal.. adds mi-nute strenght an doesn't waterproof or prevent rot.. all that comes in the application/encapsulation with the 'thin lamination type' epoxy..available here ( iboats ) ,on-line, any marine store..<br /><br />the fiberglass cloth just adds abrasion protection of the epoxy.. alotta boats are not fiberglassed inside .. especially inside sidewalls.. <br /><br />epoxies only enemy is not mixed exactly an sunlite ( uv ).. paint or multi-coats of marine varnish stops this.. <br /><br />i'd use a good A-B doug fir exterior ply.. <br />home centers don't carry ,, but any lumber yard can get it in 3 days..<br /><br />the biggest killer of transoms ( an any wood ) is the holes or screws you bore thru for motor, drain, transducer mount ,ect ,whatever..<br /><br />for transducer,, scrape paint epoxy on a piece-o-wood , starboard ,whatever .. an mount to that.. <br /><br />for motor holes ,, go to 'red search' above.. type in 'K & B tubing' an my number 6309.. mite help you..

 

[Josh9685]

Re: non fiberglassed sandwiched transom repair

HI,<br />thanks for your reply,<br />But I still have a few questions.<br /><br />Please bear with me as I have never even attempted to fix a single thing on a boat and don't have much knoledge of boat repair in general. I was an auto mechanic though.<br /><br />so, if I chip out the old wood, chances are I will end up damaging the outer skin. <br />I assume I can reglass this or patch it?<br /><br />I was looking at the post by Ddavis, and he talks about filling in the gaps beetween the new transom wood and the outer skin. what gaps is he talking about? why are there gaps? Will have gaps? <br /><br />Here is my general plan of what I intend to do:<br /><br />-remove anything going through the transom or anything in my way.<br /><br />-chip out the old wood<br /><br />-cut new wood to shape<br /><br />-epoxy new wood to outer hull-this is the step I need help with, will the new wood go right up against the outer skin with just a thin layer of expoxy? <br /><br />-maybe glass over the new wood and paint it.<br /><br />thanks again for the help

 

[ddavisr]

Re: non fiberglassed sandwiched transom repair

When I removed the old transom they used some kind of filler so each side of the transom would be straight. If you look at the boat the shape is curve on each side. I removed the top side of the boat then I used wedges that I drove between the old transom and the outer skin. The transom was made of two pieces of 3/4 plywood. The inner piece came out easy and I used it for a pattern. The other piece I had to break out in different pieces. Then grind outside skin to remove wood that didn't brake free. <br /><br />When I cut out the new transom using the old plywood for a pattern it fit back in with about 1/8 inch gap all around it. This is where I used a grinder to clean the area up and make sure there was nothing loose.<br /><br />If your Bayliner hull shape is straight on each side your transom should fit in nice and clean with no filler. <br /><br />Hit the link below and it will show pictures of what Im talking about around the transom.<br /><br />This was also the first time I jump into a major repair and so far (with the help of the peoplein this forum) it hasn't been bad at all.<br /><br /><br />Good Luck!<br />Bob <br /><br /> http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,139,00.html

 

[Josh9685]

Re: non fiberglassed sandwiched transom repair

Ddavis, your boat is almost identical to mine! I don't have a bayliner, I have a 75 Wriedt Spoiler. It has a berkeley jet.

 

[EZLoader]

Re: non fiberglassed sandwiched transom repair

Your new plywood transom must be strongly tied into your boats hull structure to safely and effectively transfer your motor's weight and thrust to the rest of the boat.<br /><br />If you just cut out new plywood and only mount it on the transom skin without also structurally joining it to your boats hull, deck and stringers then you will have a dangerously weak transom which will most likely fail.<br /><br />You connect the sides and bottom of the new transom into the rest of the hull and deck by joining them with fiberglass. If your engine is extremely powerful or heavy you should also add additional reinforcing to support and transfer its tremendous load and forces. <br /><br />There are many sites on the web that address this. <br /><br />Check out how these boaters fixed their transoms and you'll understand what I'm saying:<br /><br /> http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw3.htm <br /> http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw4.htm <br /><br />This guy wanted extra an heavy duty transom so he added some knee braces tied to his stringers to support his large outboard motors:<br /><br /> http://www.classicmako.com/projects/sheppard/shep8.htm <br /><br />(Note - if you want to see their full projects just click on the "menu" link at the bottom of their pages. If you want to see all of the project boats click on the "home" link and then go to "project boats".)

 

[ddavisr]

Re: non fiberglassed sandwiched transom repair

EZloader, what if the boat has no stringers to glass to the transom? My 1977 baja only has a thick fiberglass floor, there one piece of plywood about 15 inches wide that runs the center of the boat. This is straight from the factory. I understand what your saying about bracing the transom and I plan on adding some addition bracing running to the floor and fiberglassed. My boat is rated for 120 hp outboard. Hoping to have more pictures posted tomorrow.

 

[CalicoKid]

Re: non fiberglassed sandwiched transom repair

Your splashwell supports the transom doesn't it Bob?

 

[EZLoader]

Re: non fiberglassed sandwiched transom repair

Bob, first of all, I not a marine architect or expert on this matter.<br /> <br />Each different size and design of hulls will have its own engineering for strength and support.<br /><br />Because your boat's hull and transom are shallow and its floor so close to the hull it apparently was designed and fabricated heavy enough that it doesn't need stringers. Your transom's height is short, plus it is strongly secured by 1)your floor 2)your rear top deck and motor well and 3)the sides of your hull. The transom itself looks like it was built strong. The propulsive force and weight of your motor is well supported and disbursed with this shallow design. Note your top deck virtually encapsulates and adds strength and support to the full hull as well. <br /><br />Here are photos of your boat to illustrate what I am saying:<br /><br />

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<br /><br />A longer boat with a wide, deep V hull usually adds stringers to help strengthen and support the hull, transom, as well as support the floor.