Noobie W/ solved problem

[mla2ofus]

Just joined up, looks like a real good site. This is probably old hat to some of you. My 90 HP Force got so it wouldn't crank. Starter would turn up to co mpression and then stall w/ batt reading 12.3 v. Checked ALL CONNECTIONS, finally removed starter and disassembled it. Found bushings were dry. Greased them up, reassembled and reinstalled starter and it spins like it oughta now. Thought I'd pass this along to maybe save someone buying a new batt that isn't needed.
I also have a question about the choke/primer. Does it only work when the engine is cranking or any time the switch is on and pushed in? I can't hear the solenoid clicking when it isn't cranking
Mike

 

[Dave K.]

Re: Noobie W/ solved problem

i hear the selonoid click as soon as the key is pushed in from the ON position.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Noobie W/ solved problem

The solenoid should work everytime the key is pushed in. WD-40 a couple times a year will lube it.Jerry

 

[mla2ofus]

Re: Noobie W/ solved problem

Thanks for the replys, guys. I'll have to check it out to see if it's not getting power or it's a solenoid problem.
Mike

 

[bjhc100]

Re: Noobie W/ solved problem

Welcome Noob, I had a non-working choke on my force too. I checked it out as follows: With cowling off you should be able observe the action of the choke solenoid from the drivers seat, when you depress the key. If you get no choke action press the key in and check for voltage at the post where the wire connects to the magnet. If you get voltage near battery levels, then check the linkage on the solenoid and carbs for binding, make sure it can travel freely. Also check the ground. Check choke wire continuity as Ok, if that all checks out replace the solenoid, its an easy job. Lets us know. Mine was a bad ignition switch, I kept the old ign. switch and installed a push-button switch to control the choke solenoid. Good luck, HC

 

[mla2ofus]

Re: Noobie W/ solved problem

Welcome Noob, I had a non-working choke on my force too. I checked it out as follows: With cowling off you should be able observe the action of the choke solenoid from the drivers seat, when you depress the key. If you get no choke action press the key in and check for voltage at the post where the wire connects to the magnet. If you get voltage near battery levels, then check the linkage on the solenoid and carbs for binding, make sure it can travel freely. Also check the ground. Check choke wire continuity as Ok, if that all checks out replace the solenoid, its an easy job. Lets us know. Mine was a bad ignition switch, I kept the old ign. switch and installed a push-button switch to control the choke solenoid. Good luck, HC

Thanks for the info, if I understand correctly your talking about solenoid actuated choke butterflies. Mine is just a solenoid valve that dumps gas from the middle carb float bowl to the intake manifold. I ran a jumper wire from the batt to the solenoidtoday and could feel the solenoid clicking but the plunger on top didn't move. Is this normal and the plunger is just to work it manually in case the solenoid won't work?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[bjhc100]

Re: Noobie W/ solved problem

Electrical checks: Check yellow/black (possible green) wires between the primer valve and C terminal on ign. switch. Also check same wire (path) between the primer valve and terminal strip or wire connector on the engine. If the wires check out ok, no damage and good continuity, then you need to check out the primer valve. Disconnect the yellow/black and black (some time greeen) wires from the primer valve at the terminal strip or wire connectors on the engine, which ever you have, and connect an ohm meter between the yellow/black and black wires on the primer valve. Replace the primer valve if the resistance is not within 10-12 OHMs.


Mechanical checks: Primer valve can be checked by disconnecting the fuel hoses and connecting a short length of hose to the upper port of the vave. Blow into this hose while depressing the manual button located on top of the valve. Air should pass through the valve with the manual valve depressed, but not when the button is released... Replace valve if it is not as specified.

I don't have this carb and have no real experience on it, so I lifted this from the Clymers Manual. Good luck and let us know how it checks out. Quick question. Has this engine started and run ok recently? Does it start ok after it warms up. Is there fuel in the float bowl? Float level ok?

 

[mla2ofus]

Re: Noobie W/ solved problem

Electrical checks: Check yellow/black (possible green) wires between the primer valve and C terminal on ign. switch. Also check same wire (path) between the primer valve and terminal strip or wire connector on the engine. If the wires check out ok, no damage and good continuity, then you need to check out the primer valve. Disconnect the yellow/black and black (some time greeen) wires from the primer valve at the terminal strip or wire connectors on the engine, which ever you have, and connect an ohm meter between the yellow/black and black wires on the primer valve. Replace the primer valve if the resistance is not within 10-12 OHMs.


Mechanical checks: Primer valve can be checked by disconnecting the fuel hoses and connecting a short length of hose to the upper port of the vave. Blow into this hose while depressing the manual button located on top of the valve. Air should pass through the valve with the manual valve depressed, but not when the button is released... Replace valve if it is not as specified.

I don't have this carb and have no real experience on it, so I lifted this from the Clymers Manual. Good luck and let us know how it checks out. Quick question. Has this engine started and run ok recently? Does it start ok after it warms up. Is there fuel in the float bowl? Float level ok?

Thanks for the info, I'll check that out. To answer your question: It takes about 10 sec to start when cold while holding key in for primer. After it warms up it starts instantly w/o fail. Maybe I shouild try sqeezing the primer bulb a few times to make sure bowl is full on the cold start to see if that makes a difference. To my knowledge the float must be set right Or I'd think the middle cyl would run rough. I haven't visually checked the float.
Thanks again,
Mike

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Noobie W/ solved problem

Let me get this straight! You're bitching about a 10 second cold start? Don't fix something that ain't broke!

Sure, Some of my engines will start on the first turn but others take a bit longer. As long as you are not sitting at the dock, tying it up trying to start, don't worry.

 

[mla2ofus]

Re: Noobie W/ solved problem

Let me get this straight! You're bitching about a 10 second cold start? Don't fix something that ain't broke!

Sure, Some of my engines will start on the first turn but others take a bit longer. As long as you are not sitting at the dock, tying it up trying to start, don't worry.

Excuse me,Frank, I just wanted to be sure everything is working right. I have an old 1954 15HP Evinrude on my fishing boat that starts first pull hot or cold. I guess I was expecting the same from an engine 44 yrs newer!!! Also these starters made today don't seem to like excessive cranking times.Might explain why the bushings were dry in the starter.
Mike

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Noobie W/ solved problem

Understood! wasn't trying to be nasty. If you want to see me nasty by intention, look at top forum--boat questions and answers--post, launching and retreiving.