not able to adjust points 10hp sport tiwn

[ianmoore]

Hello,
I am restoring a 1959 Sport twin 10 hp. I have replaced the condensors, magnetos and points. I was trying to adjust the points, but no matter what i try with the adjustment screw, i am not able to affect the gap distance. I have everything correctly installed, and am pushing down the boss before trying to adjust. It is correctly installed, the key is in, and is the right side up. The armature plate is correctly installed.
I have worked on this motor quite a bit, but don't have much other experience with outboards.
Has anyone ever run into this, and hopefully can point me to some obvious oversight?
Thanks
Ian

 

[boobie]

From your pics it looks like the cam lobe is not down far enough to touch the points because the spring is holding it up. Remove the spring, put the cam lobe on and adjust the points. Then put the spring back on and the lobe and find a neutral position where the lobe won't hit either set of points when you install the flywheel.

 

[racerone]

Those brass clips are not installed correctly.------------And have you tried to back the cam screw for adjusting the points out by one turn ?

 

[ianmoore]

Thanks for the replies fellas!
Boobie: The breaker cam was not down in the pics, but i had it pushed all the way down when testing and the breaker points were solid on it.
Racerone: I completely resinstalled everything after those pics and put the brass clips on the end of the spring(Initially i had put them above as the spring was longer then the retainer). I have messed with the point adjusting screw from snug to as lose as it would go. Doesn't seem to make a difference

 

[F_R]

Pretty common, and I have run into it too. It is called crappy quality control (Or no quality control) of new points that we have to settle for these days. You may have to resort to removing the eccentric screw and adjust the points by tapping the points' base plate back or forth with a hammer and screwdriver tip inserted in the little notch. Go ahead and have the hold-own screw fairly tight as you move it so they stay put at the last tap. Don't worry about leaving the eccentric screw out, as it is only used to move the points, not hold it once moved.

Yeah, the brass clip is supposed to go over the end of the spring. The too-long spring is further evidence of crappy quality. What can I say?

 

[racerone]

Good eye, I did not notice that the springs were too long.------------------Proof that original factory parts are always a good option.

 

[ianmoore]

Indeed. Parts were a bit shoddy. Took F. R's trick, but i have them opening and closing as they should. Seem to be getting a decent spark.
I'm gonna try to turn her over tomorrow. Thanks for the advice fellas
Ian

 

[Silvertip]

Probably not shabby quality but rather trying to make a contact set made for another application work on this motor. Not the first time that has been done.

 

[gm280]

How screwed up can they make a set of points? I mean it isn't rocket surgery! Maybe you could take parts off the old points and refurbish the new points if all else fails. I'm sure you can redesign them to make them work....or just buy new OEM points and forget all about those suspect ones...Just make sure you apply some lube on the cam or the new ones will work for a very short time!

 

[nwcove]

How screwed up can they make a set of points? I mean it isn't rocket surgery! Maybe you could take parts off the old points and refurbish the new points if all else fails. I'm sure you can redesign them to make them work....or just buy new OEM points and forget all about those suspect ones...Just make sure you apply some lube on the cam or the new ones will work for a very short time!

.....or you could give this a shot, no points or condensors. (or any mods that would keep you from switching back to universal mag at any time!)

 

[gm280]

nwcove, it that a hall effect setup? And if so, how does it get its TDC firing point? Interesting...

 

[nwcove]

gm, all i can tell you about those modules is they fire when the coils reach peak voltage.( supposedly multiple spark per cycle) i have run them on a 58 10 hp and a 57 5.5. with great results on the 10 from idle to wot, the 5.5 is iffy on getting it to idle as low as it could on points/condensors but still runs slow . there are a few positive and negative reviews on the " module" route.

heres a vid from awhile back of the 10 using the modules ,running rich, as it was its first run in decades https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2Q2cru2ow0