Nothing on key turn

[wgkelly]

Surly you understand that power getting to the voltmeter is only half the story. It has to get back to the other side of the battery before it or anything else will work.

Did anybody suggest cleaning the battery terminals? Especially the negative (ground) one. We are only guessing till you confirm that you have done it.

Thanks for all the suggestions. The battery terminals are clean and connections are tight-- one battery is brand new and it doesn't matter which battery is selected on the perko. Both get power to the trim.

 

[wgkelly]

Check the negative ground connections as F_R suggests

The fact that you have power to the trim confirms that the fuse is Ok

Check for power getting to the ignition switch ( terminal B )
If not check the wiring between the fuse and the switch for breaks / bad connections .

If you have power to the switch suspect the switch .

It will help to refer to a wiring diagram. ( Impossible to do this sort of troubleshooting without IMO)
Not good because they are not in color but the one for the engine and the one for the remote in the manual on the Boatinfo site might be good enough

http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manuals/1992-2001johnsonevinrude.html#/0

Be aware that digital volt meters take so little current that they can give a normal reading even through bad connections. I prefer to use a test lamp that will need some current to light up .

Thank you for the link-- will check out the wiring diagram and look thru all the connections in the controller, etc today. I appreciate all the help.

 

[oldboat1]

Might have your batteries load tested.
Also insure that the polarity at both batteries is correct.
The Perko battery switch might be corroded or defective.
The solenoid might be dead -- could jump from your vehicle to test (also might bypass the solenoid in jumping to test the starter).

 

[wgkelly]

Thanks for all of the replies. I checked a bunch of the wiring from the ignition under the console and didn't see any loose connections. The batteries are fine and polarity is correct. There is a perko switch but it doesn't matter which battery its switched to I am getting power to the trim. I think it has to be something in the ignition; either the ignition switch itself or possibly the neutral safety switch. I can't see how the voltage gauge doesn't move when I turn the key unless the current running thru the ignition isn't geting to it, and I assume the current would run from there to the solenoid. At this point this is getting beyond my skillset and I'm going to have to tow it to a ramp and trailer it to the shop.
I do appreciate all the advice and suggestions on this thread. Once I find out what the problem is I will post back so others with similar problems can get an idea.

 

[Vic.S]

Thanks for all of the replies. I checked a bunch of the wiring from the ignition under the console and didn't see any loose connections. The batteries are fine and polarity is correct. There is a perko switch but it doesn't matter which battery its switched to I am getting power to the trim. I think it has to be something in the ignition; either the ignition switch itself or possibly the neutral safety switch. I can't see how the voltage gauge doesn't move when I turn the key unless the current running thru the ignition isn't geting to it, and I assume the current would run from there to the solenoid. At this point this is getting beyond my skillset and I'm going to have to tow it to a ramp and trailer it to the shop.
I do appreciate all the advice and suggestions on this thread. Once I find out what the problem is I will post back so others with similar problems can get an idea.

It seems most likely to be either power not reaching the ignition switch .... (which is why I suggest testing for power at the "B" terminal on the switch) or a faulty ignition switch
IF you are getting power to the switch check for power on the "A" terminal when the key is in the "ON" position
For power on the "S" terminal when you switch to "start"
and for power on the "C" terminal when the primer is activated while in the ON or Start positions

If you are not getting power to the "B" terminal then there is almost certainly an open circuit somewhere between the fuse and the key switch

The neutral safety switch is "downstream" from the keyswitch It will only prevent the motor cranking

 

[Crosbyman]

before you take it in the shop...$$$ you should inspect a few things not overly complicated

a " not loose" connections does not mean a good connection !

did you clean all accessible points mainly Selenoid fat red +12v from the battery along with smaller wires (usually a 12v feed from the rectifier/regulator and one going to the front switch B post on the switch. A voltmeter test is essential to see if the +12v reaches the B post

In start mode that incoming 12v is looped back out the switch on the S post
to the selenoid control post . If it does not reach the selenoid you have a break or safety interrupt

don't forget to pull apart the large connector under the cowl ..clean it and retest +12v must reach the selenoid small control post

 

[Crosbyman]

this probably very similar to your 92 ...

see yellow-red on the selenoid... just follow-it back to the switch via the fat side connector.. (remove the clip clean all contacts & reclip )

RED + 12V feeds into the switch and the switch sends it out the
yellow-red via the neutral switch back up


if +12v reaches the yellow-red post on the selenoid and it does not click the selenoid is likely defective or not grounding properly ... you indicated no clicking sound so either it is not being energized , the inner coil winding is open, or it is not grounding solid to the frame or it is mechanically stuck solid internally (stuck plunger)

 

[racerone]

Just run to your local shop for a quick diagnosis.

 

[wgkelly]

Ok-- you guys have convinced me to give it another try. I should mention this is on a pontoon so access to the wiring in the console isn't difficult, although I do have to remove the shifter to take the cover off the control box to reach the ignition switch.
One other thing-- when I turn the key to ON there is normally a short alarm sound. This isn't happening so if there is 12v to the B terminal and none to the A for ON or S for start, it has to be the ignition switch, correct? I definitely have power back to the starter post via the thick red cable. I will check out the solenoid with key turned.
And then-- after I check all connections-- the tow to the ramp.
Thank you all again for great advice and the information, especially the wiring diagrams, etc. Enjoy a fat and lazy Thanksgiving!

 

[Vic.S]

Ok-- you guys have convinced me to give it another try. I should mention this is on a pontoon so access to the wiring in the console isn't difficult, although I do have to remove the shifter to take the cover off the control box to reach the ignition switch.
One other thing-- when I turn the key to ON there is normally a short alarm sound. This isn't happening so if there is 12v to the B terminal and none to the A for ON or S for start, it has to be the ignition switch, correct? I definitely have power back to the starter post via the thick red cable. I will check out the solenoid with key turned.
And then-- after I check all connections-- the tow to the ramp.
Thank you all again for great advice and the information, especially the wiring diagrams, etc. Enjoy a fat and lazy Thanksgiving!

You should be ble to start it by operating the primer manually and either jumping across the large terminals on the solenoid or from the terminal with the incoming supply to the small terminal which is not grounded

 

[Crosbyman]

the fact that 2 events are not occuring no selenoid click and no warning buzzer ....would normally indicate that a common problem is present .... that being the absence of 12V into the switch since . as per the diagram +12v goes to the B post and a quick voltage test should confirm that.

At this point, if such is the case you need to back track the missing B post 12v to the source ( fused red wire +12v from the connection to the fat red +12v post on the selenoid )

looks like you have a break on the +12v from the selenoid via the fuse
(if not broken in a bend somewhere .... I still suspect the fat connector point under the cowl ...possible oxydation in the mating surfaces


)

 

[wgkelly]

both good ideas-- can't get back up to the lake to try these until after thursday and hopefully still able to move after turkey fest. Thank you all once again!

 

[wgkelly]

Ok gents-- mystery solved. After checking all the connections again and testing the voltage at the ignition, I was pretty much stumped. Then I noticed that the fish finder wasn't reading depth and had a weird signal. As I looked around at the back of the pontoon, I realized the transducer cable had been chewed thru. Looking further I noticed the wiring cables to the engine, normally under the deck, was hanging low and in the water and when I inspected it--- it had also been chewed on. We respliced all the wires and everything is good to go. I am now checking on the price of beaver pelts and the beavers living in the back of the creek will be put on notice. My .270 is sighted in for deer but beaver can be more sporting.

Thank you all again for all of the suggestions and info-- it's a great forum and I hope others have learned from what you all have suggested. Enjoy the holidays and stay well!
Bill K

 

[F_R]

And we were expected to guess beavers? Don't have any here in Florida. Seriously, glad you figured it out.

 

[Crosbyman]

What a beaver tale.....

we actually have pastry called Beaver tails up un Canada and they get all chewed up themselves

if you want a real revenge here is the recipe

beaver tail pastry recipe - Bing

 

[wgkelly]

What a beaver tale.....

we actually have pastry called Beaver tails up un Canada and they get all chewed up themselves

if you want a real revenge here is the recipe

beaver tail pastry recipe - Bing

 

[wgkelly]

Nice! I'll be trying that recipe soon!!
And yeah-- I guess "beaver attack" was pretty far down most people's lists, especially those in gatorland. However, with global warming gators may soon show up here in north Georgia and the whole beaver problem will be solved ;-)