Odd Vibration in 4.3L......Ideas?

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
Hey boys, I have a 1996 Maxum with a 4.3L Mercruiser with an Alpha One. When I was out today I noticed a vibration above 2k RPM. No ticking, no knocking, nothing, just when I went over 2K I could feel the vibration through the boat. Again, there's no odd noises coming from any where. I stuck my head in the engine compartment while the boat was driving (somebody was driving) and I couldn't hear anything out of the ordinary, in fact it sounded great. But none the less the vibration was there. It didn't get worse when I turned, and there is no lack of power. It did get less when I opened her up a bit, but then slowing down it came back again. I did a compression test out of curiosity in april and it was 150 on all 6. That was done in my driveway just for fun. (I love to tinker) Now I've been around many many boats. I've owned over a dozen and this is the first i've come across like this. I've done gimble bearings before, but those were noisy sounding especially when turning and were pretty obvious. This is no odd noises just a vibration. Could it be the U joints maybe? I trimmed up the motor while running and the vibration stayed the same and did it again when I got home in the driveway with the same result. Or maybe, just maybe a symptom from a bad gimble bearing that I haven't come across? I thought maybe the harmonic balancer but then the engine would have a bad vibration. I put my hand on the engine while it was running and it's not shaking or doing any dancing around. Nice and steady as it should feel, yet the vibration. Because the engine feels steady that makes me believe it's in the drive somewhere. Maybe a cylinder not firing? Just remembered, the only super minor noise I did hear, was what sounded like a pulley bearing starting to go. Very, Very slight sshhhhhhh sound. I only heard that when I stuck my head in the engine bay. Thoughts?
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
9,120
I did a compression test out of curiosity in april and it was 150 on all 6. That was done in my driveway just for fun. (I love to tinker). Maybe a cylinder not firing? Thoughts?
Did you notice the vibration before doing the compression test? If not, maybe you accidently damaged a spark plug or two. Try some new plugs to help rule this out. Also while out on the water a 2000 RPM, try removing one plug wire a time to see if you notice any differences. Good luck.
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
Sorry about all the duplicates. The site kept saying there was an error and that staff have been notified to fix the problem so I kept trying and I guess they all went through. Sorry again. No I never noticed the vibration before. I'll unplug each plug wire and see if anything changes. I'll let you know. Thanks
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
9,120
No problem with the duplicates topics, the forum is going through some major upgrades that's not going so well at the moment. At this time, duplicates are more common than not.

Hope you find your problem quickly, good luck.
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,138
I would start with u-joints and gimbal bearing and trying to isolate or rule things out as you go.
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
I was poking around the drive last night and I grabbed the drive to push it too one side. I noticed there was a bit of play in the drive. So I grabbed it again straight on and could "wiggle" about a 1/4" of play to the left and right. Now this would point to a gimble bearing? Could that cause a noiseless vibration if the bearing is going I wonder. I'll be looking at it again tonight.
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,138
I was poking around the drive last night and I grabbed the drive to push it too one side. I noticed there was a bit of play in the drive. So I grabbed it again straight on and could "wiggle" about a 1/4" of play to the left and right. Now this would point to a gimble bearing? Could that cause a noiseless vibration if the bearing is going I wonder. I'll be looking at it again tonight.

No, not really . . . there is typically a bit of play in the steering.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,239
do a spark test on each cylinder. pull wires and see if the RPM drops. my first thought is bad plug or wire
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
So I hooked the boat up to water tonight and fired it up. I unplugged each plug one and a time. At first I couldn't really feel any noticeable difference, but sure enough there it was. The engine would idle just a hint rougher until I plugged it back in then it would jump up a second and return to normal. I did that with all the plugs and the idle changed every time with all the plugs. By plug 3 I did the glass of water on the block to see the difference as well. The interesting bit is the starboard side seemed to make more of a difference than the port side when unplugged, and 2 out of the three plug wires on the port side gave me a shock through the rubber insulation. So I think i'm gonna grab new plug wires. If I'm loosing spark on one side more than the other I think that could account for it........potentially? Next I'll probably pull the drive and inspect the U joints and gimble bearing to see what's going on in that front. I have some U joints I bought years ago for a 1991 bayliner with a 3.0L. I don't suppose those things are of any use with this drive? The 91 had the same drive as this.
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
So a quick development, nothing huge. Probably a face palm for the rest of you guys yelling at me through your computers. I pulled the plug wires and inspected each individually and did a continuity check. I started starboard side and moved to port. Here's what i found.

#1 - Clean, no corrosion (starting at the stern working towards the bow.)
#2 - Silver'ish but rust between the spring clip where the plug snaps in and the rest of the cable.
#3 - Silver'ish bottom but rust between spring clip and plug snap
#4 port side starting at stern working toward the bow. - Clean, no corrosion
#5 - Clean no corrosion
#6 - Minor corrosion but snap insert was mangled and the plug wouldn't actually snap in place

So i'm guessing when I unplugged each plug wire one at a time starting with the mangled plug wire, that's why I didn't notice much at first. Then because the engine was already "mis-firing" because of the bad contact with the plug i moved on to the rest and felt each of them make a difference in varying degrees. I guess when the first plug skews the entire testing ground of course it's gonna seem ok because the base is contaminated to begin with. So anyway, I ordered a set of plugs and wires that I'm picking up tomorrow afternoon. I'm hoping this will smoothen things out significantly. Between the corrosion and the one mangled plug wire, I only had 3 good cylinders with proper conductivity so who knows how many cylinders I was actually running on. I'll keep you posted tomorrow. Thanks for the time
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
Gimbal bearing is good and U joints are perfect. Ideas? While the drive is off I'm gonna start it to isolate the problem further. Just have to solve a starter problem that appeared now.
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,138
Gimbal bearing is good and U joints are perfect. Ideas? While the drive is off I'm gonna start it to isolate the problem further. Just have to solve a starter problem that appeared now.

Aren't boats fun ??? :rolleyes: as you are working on one problem the next problem gets in line waiting to be served.

So, I take it that the plug wire testing did not pan out into anything specific? Just be aware that u-joints and gimbal bearings can 'feel' good to the touch, but cause vibration under load. If the vibration is trim and turn sensitive, then it is probably those bearings.
 

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
I was poking around the drive last night and I grabbed the drive to push it too one side. I noticed there was a bit of play in the drive. So I grabbed it again straight on and could "wiggle" about a 1/4" of play to the left and right. Now this would point to a gimble bearing? Could that cause a noiseless vibration if the bearing is going I wonder. I'll be looking at it again tonight.
It has nothing to do with the gimbal bearing. There should be almost no play in the steering. Retorque the gimbal clamping screws to 55 ft. Lb. per the manual. Should be done every year. See if that tightens things up.
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
So here's a small update. Changed all plugs,wires,dist cap,ignition coil. Still has a vibration at 2700 rpm, but it is less now. Ran it without the drive and it was less again but still present. So I'm gonna check the timing next. It smells a bit rich as well so maybe a slight carb mix adjust. (I know about grounding the purple/white wire ;) )
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
K, so to review good gimbal bearing, ujoints, ignition coil, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, timing, and gas. Is it possible that it's a sticky valve or two on this thing? Kinda reading a few posts and the symptoms kind of match up. I had a backfire while on the muffs, smelled rich, ran rough on higher RPM with a bit of a miss here and there. So what do you guys think, sticky valve maybe? If so is there a procedure for unsticking the valves? thanks
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
What are you're guys thoughts on the following. I noticed i'm leaking oil from the fuel/oil sensor cutoff switch, could that be partially failing? As in working enough that the fuel pump works but not enough that it's not pushing enough fuel through the carb? Second thing is, I FOUND THE VOLTAGE DROP!!! It didn't solve my problem but it's been driving me nuts. It's the electric choke. When it's plugged in i lose the volt when it's unplugged I have full voltage on the dash gauge and the buzzer is higher pitched sounding. I opened it up and it was corroded so i cleaned it up. Didn't do anything to performance even when I unplugged it while the boat was running. My timing was off by 8 degrees though!!! So whome ever played with it before was an idiot. The valves aren't sticking either, so there goes that theory. The boat fires right up and idles great, compression is 150 on all 6 cylinders, but it's just that damn vibration at 2700! I thought for sure the shorting electric choke is messing with the coil causing problems, or the fuel sensor cutoff switch is faulty causing a fuel problem. But alas it's late. Thoughts?? anybody?
 

matth121

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
275
it wouldnt be fuel related since you have no problems running at higher rpms( doesnt die or stumble when the pump is running at its max).
the switch leaking oil turns on your fuel pump when enough oil pressure is built up while starting- same as above- you'd notice it at other rpms, not just 2700.

what does your prop look like? a nick or dent can cause a vibration at certain rpms that will disappear at higher or lower rpms.

why don't you avoid running at 2700rpm? lol, jk
 

ryan04

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
212
haha! 3000 is my cruising speed so it's right where i need to be! haha. The vibration happens even in neutral. I obviously don't like reving it up with no back pressure so I more or less do a quick run up to 2000 or so an that's when I can barely start to feel it so i know it happen higher up, and sure enough if i push past to 2700 for a second i can feel the vibration. I put it in gear an watched the prop shaft and it has no wobble. ONCE i get this solved, which i will because this thing shall not break me!! I will let you all know. :)
 
Top