Hate reading the oh **** I snapped my head bolt posts, figure ill give a lil advice.
Be aware, you can feel the difference of a bolt coming out to one that is shearing, if youve already snapped 1 do not go and repeat what you just did for the other 9 or how many ever bolts.
Below is for simply corroded bolts, if the bolt is lock tighted with permannent locktite heat it till you see that sweet smellin smoke pour out, thats the locktite burnin off.
Before attempting tap the bolt with a hammer and the material around it in an attempt to loosen up the corrosion, then spray with penetrating oil. Now dont go smashing it just tap it a lil. If the bolt moves work it back and forth (tightening and loosening) and tapping it inbetween. Now spray the **** out of it with some penetrating spray again. Slowly work it out keeping it lubed.
If that doesnt move the bolt next step, heat. Now with all the aluminum and SS combinations you have to be carefull with the amount of heat you use. A typical propane torch may work on small surface but one with alot of material to dicipitate the heat its useless. They now sell those yellow disposible canisters benz something or other its hotter I have had good luck with it when I am unable to get to my torches.
Grab that torch and heat that bolt up. Evenly heat the bolt and area around it. Remember its not just the top of the bolt you want hot its the whole length that the threads run. get it nice and hot and try to work it out the same way as described above using penetrating lube and working it back and forth.
(*******dont heat anything that has gas around it!!! or is sealed. air/water pockets will go BOOM if they cant vent out tossin shrapenal in your face!*********)
K after that if it doesnt come out or the head snapped your now into real work.
If it snapped with material pertruding you can try vice grips but realistically if the head wasnt damaged prior and it snapped the chances of gripping with vice grips and removing is slim. Now if the corrosion was on top and the head was weakened than ya chances it will come out using the same procedure stated above. tap,lube,heat.
Best way is get a nut, thread it on as best you can and weld her on there. (be aware of the material ie is it SS?) the current flow and heat of the welding alone will help with the removal greatly.again still follow above tap,lube,heat
If the bolt is sheared flush, get a small punch or chisel(yes one for metal not wood working here kids) off set it on the bolt and tap it with a hammer trying to rotate the bolt, i have had great success with this technique before attempting to drill out the bolt.
Now if all this fails your into drilling it out. easy outs all those cheap sears and crappy tire extraction tools are useless. Its wishfull thinking. They work for damaged heads not siezed bolts.
For drillin out well ive already typed to much right now.
Be aware, you can feel the difference of a bolt coming out to one that is shearing, if youve already snapped 1 do not go and repeat what you just did for the other 9 or how many ever bolts.
Below is for simply corroded bolts, if the bolt is lock tighted with permannent locktite heat it till you see that sweet smellin smoke pour out, thats the locktite burnin off.
Before attempting tap the bolt with a hammer and the material around it in an attempt to loosen up the corrosion, then spray with penetrating oil. Now dont go smashing it just tap it a lil. If the bolt moves work it back and forth (tightening and loosening) and tapping it inbetween. Now spray the **** out of it with some penetrating spray again. Slowly work it out keeping it lubed.
If that doesnt move the bolt next step, heat. Now with all the aluminum and SS combinations you have to be carefull with the amount of heat you use. A typical propane torch may work on small surface but one with alot of material to dicipitate the heat its useless. They now sell those yellow disposible canisters benz something or other its hotter I have had good luck with it when I am unable to get to my torches.
Grab that torch and heat that bolt up. Evenly heat the bolt and area around it. Remember its not just the top of the bolt you want hot its the whole length that the threads run. get it nice and hot and try to work it out the same way as described above using penetrating lube and working it back and forth.
(*******dont heat anything that has gas around it!!! or is sealed. air/water pockets will go BOOM if they cant vent out tossin shrapenal in your face!*********)
K after that if it doesnt come out or the head snapped your now into real work.
If it snapped with material pertruding you can try vice grips but realistically if the head wasnt damaged prior and it snapped the chances of gripping with vice grips and removing is slim. Now if the corrosion was on top and the head was weakened than ya chances it will come out using the same procedure stated above. tap,lube,heat.
Best way is get a nut, thread it on as best you can and weld her on there. (be aware of the material ie is it SS?) the current flow and heat of the welding alone will help with the removal greatly.again still follow above tap,lube,heat
If the bolt is sheared flush, get a small punch or chisel(yes one for metal not wood working here kids) off set it on the bolt and tap it with a hammer trying to rotate the bolt, i have had great success with this technique before attempting to drill out the bolt.
Now if all this fails your into drilling it out. easy outs all those cheap sears and crappy tire extraction tools are useless. Its wishfull thinking. They work for damaged heads not siezed bolts.
For drillin out well ive already typed to much right now.