OK seriously about the flywheel

[ninja500r]

Hi there. I have been lurking about and this is my first post.

I have an '86 Merc75 that has a bad stator. Well the stator itself might be ok but the yellow wires coming from it are like completely gone. At least an inch of them disintegrated between the stator and the rectifier. These are the charging wires (right?) that have a lot of current, is that why they corroded away to nothing?

So I figure a new one is in order. We got the boat from my wife's parents for free and did run it once. It ran fine but when we were bringing it in it didn't want to idle. So maybe the low speed windings on the stator are bad. This was before I realized the yellow wires were as bad as the are. But hey it ran good.

THE BIG QUESTION IS: seriously what's the deal with the flywheel. Why is Merc such a pain with the lame special tool. Several of the posters here have removed the little bolts that fix the flexplate to the hub and seemed to get away with it. SO SERIOUSLY if I number each little bolt and mark the flexplate so it goes on just the same way it came off I'll be fine right? I'll even line up the flywheel to TDC before I take it apart. That's OK right?

Nothing like a long first post, thanks all...

 

[jebeebe]

Re: OK seriously about the flywheel

Hi,
Yes if you can mark the flywheel before you take it off, just an I.D. mark by one bolt hole and on the flywheel hub is good enough. You don't have to do the top dead center thing as it can't get out of time anyway. It's just if you don't mark it first you have lost it. I took mine off with a homemade puller, but I have a machine shop. It takes a ridgid plate (3/4 steel) and about a 1/8 turn of a wrench and it pops off. If not it takes a lot of hammering (certainly not recomended) unless you want to pop for a $700 flywheel. I took two of the little bolts out and bolted a plate across the top and screwed a 3/4 bolt down against the flywheel nut (loosly screwed on) and it popped. There is a tapered spline on the crank with a tooth missing so you can only get it back on one way. Don't lay the flywheel on anything steel as it can mess up the magnets in it. If you take the trigger out, be carefull not to put the linkage in a bind or you will break off the plastic piece that the linkage hooks to. I did, and rather than pay $ 180 for a new one I repaired it with JB weld. Hope it holds. I think it will. Well, I hope I have helped you. I have a 60 hp 3 cyl which is the same block as the 70 and 80 I guess...................Jerry

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: OK seriously about the flywheel

here's something to comtemplate: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=181688

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: OK seriously about the flywheel

If two of those bolts are directly opposite each other,it may work.Better if three bolts will line up to a three bolt puller.

But in the real world,the factory puller is the best way.You can even thread an eyebolt into it and use it as a lift ring.

DHP