OK - Set me straight

Benn

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
10
I'm a long time lurker, first time poster so be gentle.

I have a 1982 Privateer Retriever 1800 cc with a pretty basic internal layout. Photos attached.

- screw down cc
- coolers for seats
- above deck fuel tank in the cc
- all cables, wiring, etc. is above deck.

Based on some test probing, the floor appears to be 1/2" or 5/8" plywood, unsealed on the bottom, with about an 1/16" fiberglass wear surface. It is getting very spongy and needs to be replaced.

I replaced the deck of a 12' fiberglass boat I had about 15 years ago using plywood, cloth, poly resin, fairing, and gel coat. It turned out great, but it involved lot of sanding and many weekends. That was a fun project, but I was single and had a lot more time than money. Now I'm married, have little kids, and I understand the $ value of weekends spend fishing and boating...not sanding.

So here is what I want to do....please let me know of any fatal flaws (aside from cost) - I am going for speed and functionality....

- I will take out the old deck and sand and prep the stingers and sides up to the gunwales.
- I will cut 3 sheets of 3/4 Coosa Bluewater 20 into 4 panels using a template I will make from cardboard after I take out the CC and seats.
- I will stick the Coosa down to the stringers with 3M 5200 and 1 1/2" countersunk stainless wood screws on about 24" center spacing, caulk the seams and edges with more 3M 5200, let it all cure.
- I will roll on a couple coats of 2-part epoxy primer on the deck, up the sides, and let it cure,
- I'll take it to a Rhino Liner dealer and get the stuff sprayed on over all interior surfaces.
- I'll re-install CC and seats.
- I'll go fishing.

I am also considering using a DIY system like Sanitred depending on how easy the Rhino Liner guys are to deal with....they have not been to helpful to date...no quotes and little hard info...."why don't you bring it on down and we can have a look"...

My time budget is 3 weekends....One weekend of prep. One weekend to replace the deck and prime. One weekend to get the liner sprayed and the boat re-rigged.

My $ Budget is about $1900+/-.
$700 for Coosa board, $100 for adhesives and screws, $50 for sanding pads and acetone, $100 for primer/paint supplies, $50 for misc. and $850+/- for the liner.

Some other relevant info.

- If I pull up the deck and the stingers are rotten, I'll be buying another boat.
- I have read many posts about the pros and cons of both Coosa and Rhino liners.
- I have contacted the Coosa folks, who have told me the 3m 5200 and epoxy primer will stick to it and you can screw directly through it.
- I can buy all the materials locally.
- The boat is in the Pacific NW. It is stored under a boat cover, but outside year round. It will be damp for long periods each year.
- Sun bleaching is not really an issue.
- Mold and mildew are issues.
- The space between the deck and hull is vented.
- I have a covered area to work in for short periods, but it is unheated and day-time temperatures won't likely get into the 70's on a consistent basis for a couple months.
- Betting on a dry, warm Saturday to do the work is not really an option.
- I have all basic tools...sanders, angle grinders, routers, table saw, etc.
- I have an unemployed brother in law who is willing to help with labor, but is not great on unsupervised finish work.
- I am firm believer in the axiom "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good."

Your wisdom please.

Benn
 

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jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: OK - Set me straight

Spongey deck is probably soft stringers.
Don't sacrifice the best for the good.
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,065
Re: OK - Set me straight

I'm a long time lurker, first time poster so be gentle.

I am also considering using a DIY system like Sanitred depending on how easy the Rhino Liner guys are to deal with....they have not been to helpful to date...no quotes and little hard info...."why don't you bring it on down and we can have a look"...

Benn

Get the rubber hose and only BEAT this new guy lightly :eek::D

Welcome to iboats!!

Sounds as if you have a plan. Coosa is lot's of money but that is your choice.

Do a google search for Durabak. We have had many members that have used it and are very very pleased with the results. ........ We have also had iboats members who have used bedliner with less than favorable results.

Now with mt anti-bedliner rant out of the way ;) If the stringers are bad you plan on another boat?? :confused: Okay, please take a look at nida bond or seacast which will fit in your budget (if you dump the bedliner idea)......

The biggest most annoying obstacle was not mentioned...... flotation. If it is waterlogged it has to be removed......nasty work. We suggest that it be replaced but we also have many schools of thought on which product to use.

Get started on your project........ before you buy anything do the deck surgery first and it will reveal allot.

Plywood is cheaper then coosa and works fine ;)

See.... did that beating hurt? :p Once again welcome to iboats!!
 

mrdjflores

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Apr 1, 2009
Messages
1,169
Re: OK - Set me straight

definitely get your deck out before you purchase anything.

once the deck is out, check over everything....
hate to be the bearer of bad news but, if the deck is soft, you may also find:
waterlogged flotation foam
rotted stringers
and possibly some rot in the transom

all of which is fairly easy to relpace
 

tmcalavy

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 29, 2001
Messages
4,005
Re: OK - Set me straight

The other factor is time...which you said is limited. You'll spend 1/3 or more of the total project time removing and re-installing everything on deck just to get to the deck/sole that you want to replace. Factor that in...assess the project realistically and then decide.
 

Benn

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
10
Re: OK - Set me straight

I will definitely NOT be purchasing any materials until I get the deck removed. Luckily I live in Seattle with an extensive marine industry and all the materials can be purchased off the shelf locally.

I have reason to be optimistic about the transom and stringers. It is my understanding that Privateers were originally built as work boats with basic plywood decks that would be easy to replace and have encapsulated stringers. My boat is very similair to the "before" of this boat project on the classic mako site. Here they removed the deck to find the stringers were solid.

Anyway, I'll find out for sure on Saturday....I'll post photos then.

As an aside, I stopped by a local boat dealer today and he had several new river sleds and one bass boat with similar branded "rhino" like coating that was factory applied to all interior surfaces. Seemed like a great surface for NW fishing conditions.
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: OK - Set me straight

Nothing wrong with optimism, but you need to know what you got before planning what you're gonna do, the only way is to drill into the stringers and examine the chips.
If your boat is like that mako, they're not hard to gut compared to a cuddy.
 

Benn

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
10
Still working on it....

Still working on it....

I pulled the old deck out this weekend. The plywood was completely delaminated and rotten in several places (see attached photos). The good thing is that it made demo relatively easy. We had the floor out in less than a half hour then about another couple hours with the grinder and sander to prep the inside surfaces.

The stringers were constructed from glass-wrapped plywood and were solid. I sanded the tops and took several cores out at various places with a hand drill.

There was about a 2-foot section of the center stringer near the bow where the plywood had delaminated from the glass. The wood was solid, so I sanded down the top down to wood, poured epoxy into the void and clamped it. I'll re-glass the top after the glue cures.

I'm sure the foam has some water in it but it is still extremely firm, didn't even dent with us walking on it. I cut out a few small sections and it was not saturated, so I think I'll leave it be.

The transom on this boat appears to be 1/4 inch aluminum plate bonded to glass encapsulated plywood. It was all sold with no delaminations.

OK, so back to my original question.....

What do you think about Coosa board and spray-on bedliner? I have an email into the local Line-X franchise to see if they are easier to work with than the Rhino-liner people.

I've also read a lot about DIY applications such as Sanitred and Tufflex. These seem to cost a as much or more and require a multi-step process....prime, coat, texture, topcoat, etc. Anybody with experience with these systems? I'd like to hear from you.

Benn
 

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Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,065
Re: Still working on it....

Re: Still working on it....

My personal opinion ..... I would avoid the bed liner and stick with materials for marine work. I have heard too many bad things with bed liner and future repairs. The cost vs return is not worth it.
 

Benn

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
10
Re: OK - Set me straight

OK and update on my project.....I (generally) took eveybody's advice and stuck with marine systems/products and materials...opting to go with KiwiGrip over Sanitred or bed liner for the deck. I am very pleased with that decision, particularly given the easy in re-doing areas should I want to move things around......

Photos of the (mostly) finished project can be seen here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=57390&id=1614737750&l=9ca210b898

Thanks for the advice!

Benn
 

tmcalavy

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 29, 2001
Messages
4,005
Re: OK - Set me straight

Ditto...sweet project and good work. Max looks like a natural cap'n.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: OK - Set me straight

Which Coosa board did you use for the floor, I ask that because most of the types arean't designed to directly carry a load, they're intended to be used as a core and need to be glassed on both sides.
 

Haulin'Bass

Recruit
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
5
Re: OK - Set me straight

Benn, Great job. Well organized. Great results.
In photo 18 you indicated you ordered two bins with hatches for the front compartment. Who did you order those from?
 

Benn

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
10
Re: OK - Set me straight

Thanks for the encouragement. I have to say I didn't take any close up photos for a reason, It is not a show winner by any means, but I'm generally pleased with the results and I think I found a good balance between function and cost (by balance I mean just way expensive, not over the top expensive). I am also happy with the way it turned out given I did it basically all by myself (my brother in law came over and helped with labor a couple weekends) in my driveway with just basic tools and equipment. The painting was particularly difficult given the crappy wet, cold summer we had in Seattle this year.

ondarvr - I used 3/4" Bluewater 26 - this is the one with the integrated roving for structural applications.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/productgroupdetail.aspx?cid=13647&keywords=coosa&radkm=on&km=entire

I'm about 230# and there is zero flex in the floor. Of course, you pay for this at about $250 per sheet. To minimize the number of sheets I took very exact measurements and then laid it all out using CADD software to insure I had enough material based on the layout. I then bought some styrofoam insulation sheets and cut those out and fitted them and used them as templates.

Haulin' - I purchased Tempress hatches and liners (which are just plastic tubs that fit the hatch). A crappy photo is attached. If you do a web search, they come up all over. I got the 13X23 Cam door. The hatches work great and I can stand on them with no problem....the liners are a total rip-off... not in that they don't work or are crap, they work fine and are sturdy. My main complaint is that they really get you for the hatches (about $75 each) and they really gouge you for the liners at $65 each for what is basically an HDPE bin.

I screwed the hatch to the liner with some 3M 4400 squished between the lid and liner and this formed nice drop in bins with lids that sit flush to the deck and I have access to battery storage and I can take them out easily.

I was able to re-use many components from the boat, but for those who may be reading this while doing research on their projects, here are the major new products/materials I used:

Coosa Bluewater 26 board (deck)
West System Epoxy Resins and Fillers (mostly 407 filler)
KiwiGrip - Deck and interior (gray) (highly recommend)
3m Marine Premium Filler for patching holes and minor fairing
Interlux Perfection (fighting lady yellow) on the exterior
Interlux Perfection (oyster white) with flattening agent on the rails
Interlux VC Offshore Epoxy Bottom Paint (on bottom and splash well)
Interlux 2000E Epoxy Primer
Interlux Brightside one part urethane (steel gray) on the console and cooler/seat and base.
Side rails by Martin Marine Design (highly recommend)
Tempress hatches and liners
Cabelas Brand AGM batteries
Advanced Angler's ProSport Chargers
Boat Life Life-Calk for deck seams joints prior to painting
3M 5200 slow cure for the deck and through hull fittings
3m 4400 fast cure for seating the hardware and minor
Wooster TIZ rollers for the urethane paint
Copenhagen gold foam rollers for the epoxy paint.
 

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Kiwifisher

Seaman
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
58
Re: OK - Set me straight

Nice job there mate, I'm sure you're glad it's all done. It's amazing how quickly a 3 week project turns into a 4 month slog :D
 
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