Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

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bruceb58

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

Make sure you get it up to temperature for awhile between the changes. I had the same issue when I got a lot of water in my bilge area and it leaked into my crankcase. A few oil changes did it. I got the cheapest oil I could find for the first oil change.
 

Joshua Nichols

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

Make sure you get it up to temperature for awhile between the changes. I had the same issue when I got a lot of water in my bilge area and it leaked into my crankcase. A few oil changes did it. I got the cheapest oil I could find for the first oil change.

Did ya run on the lake or just out in the drive way?
 

ziggy

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

i'd guess the number of times ya gotta R&R the oil would depend on how severe or how long the water/coolant intrusion lasted.
in my case. the boat was discovered within 24 hrs. same with my van. both had immediate oil changes. the boat got 2 or 3 (can't remember) oil changes, the van 2 for sure.
the brg. caps were pulled on the van. no damage done. the boat still runs fine, though no inspections were done.

as for the rislon. agreed. it's been around a while. i've known about it for years and i'm not in the mechanic industry. fwiw. i used it to quite a lifter that was tinging because of the coolant intrusion that i didn't know was taking place. it did quite the lifter too. not total quite, but much less. no idea how it works as a cleaner. agreed too that it is not think like molases. it is runny like 5w.

good luck on your decision as to how to rid the milk shake.
i'll still stand by my comment that the oil changes work. and nope oil and cheap. but it is cheaper than a new engine... ;)
 

Lodgepole

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

I am an old coot and used Marvel Mystery Oil as a teenager. In 2009, I winterized my 93 OMC 3.0 and put a good shot of MMO in the cylinders, let her soak all winter. Last spring it ran much better than before and oil consmption was reduced. I am a believer! I knew a guy in college that had a 38 Olds with a fresh rebuilt engine. He put streight Rizlone in it and drove it hard, which I would never do. Don't know how long it stood up but yes, a quart will clean things up.
As for Chem Tool, never put it in the crankcase. My dad tried that on an old Falcon. It cut loose so much crud that the crank looked like somuone had run a wood rasp on it. I ended up rebuilding it. Probably several oil changes with light use would be the best.
Ain't it a shame, at the price a new boat costs, the cheap skate manyfacturers can't furnish a proper drain tube?
 

tswiczko

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

Josh,

If you know how much went in then you measure how much comes out you'll know if there is still a leak somewhere if you get more out than you put in..Just an Idea if it doesn't clear up for you..
 

Silvertip

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

"Rebuild In A Can" is an old cliche that came about when STP (Super TomCat Pee) hit the market. Did it work? It masked the problem and cut down oil consumption but one could have just added two quarts of oil for the cost of the STP and been money ahead. Besides, I did not say it was a REPAIR -- it and MMO are cleaning agents. Big difference!
 

Repostyle

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

You can always change the oil in your "junk" cars and run the used oil with a new filter through until the water is gone. That way you don't waste the money on new oil. You'll still buy just as much but at least you end up with clean oil in all your engines. Just put a paper towel on a funnel and pour slow and you'll take care of any damaging impurities.
 

Joshua Nichols

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

You can always change the oil in your "junk" cars and run the used oil with a new filter through until the water is gone. That way you don't waste the money on new oil. You'll still buy just as much but at least you end up with clean oil in all your engines. Just put a paper towel on a funnel and pour slow and you'll take care of any damaging impurities.

Ummmmm No... These days I get the oil changed on my truck and the wifes car at quickie lube we don't own any junk... Also ummmm NO
 

Joshua Nichols

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

Josh,

If you know how much went in then you measure how much comes out you'll know if there is still a leak somewhere if you get more out than you put in..Just an Idea if it doesn't clear up for you..

I don't think that's a issue.... I pressure tested it....
 

Repostyle

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

Ummmmm No... These days I get the oil changed on my truck and the wifes car at quickie lube we don't own any junk... Also ummmm NO

I was quoting you when you said you work on your own "junk". I wasn't saying you have junk cars. But running used oil is common practice as long as there's not more than 3000 miles on it. It's recomended to break in new engines.
 

Joshua Nichols

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

My boat is the only thing I really have to fool with... Everything else is still pretty new.. Sometimes I call it "junk". My floating t-rd..You dadgum POS... It likes it when I cuss at it.. Kinda like a woman.. My wife bought it for me to give me something to do.. Says I get cranky if I stay idle for too long.. Must be the mechanic in me
 

Joshua Nichols

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

Well here is the update to this thread..

I got a bit discouraged about this mess so I put it off for awhile.. Anyhow went do to the part house and picked up a new filter and some cheap oil.. Well after a good warm up... Oil is as clean as a whistle.:D:eek:. So I have a gallon of cheap oil and a new filter sitting on the shelf.:.. YAY..

Now I gotta figure out the noise coming from the rear... It sounds like u joints to me.:facepalm:. Also I think my ESA quit working right.. I depressed that micro switch and it was working.. Pressed it again and it wouldn't.:facepalm::(:eek:.. Bummer.. May start some new treads
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

MMO are cleaning agents. Big difference!
Stoddard Solvent mixed with oil will work just like Kerosene and Diesel fuel mixed with mineral oil............as cleaning agents.

I am an old coot and used Marvel Mystery Oil as a teenager. In 2009, I winterized my 93 OMC 3.0 and put a good shot of MMO in the cylinders, let her soak all winter. Last spring it ran much better than before and oil consmption was reduced. I am a believer!
A believer in what?:confused:


I have yet to understand why people (many people) believe that MMO (Stoddard Solvent, Mineral Oil and 1% lard) has some sort of magic property.


This is why "Snake Oil" salesmen were (and still are) so successful! A LOT people suckered in on SLICK50 before they were sued by the FTC for false claims (and some still "swear" by it!!)
toothlessgiggler.gif




Now I gotta figure out the noise coming from the rear... It sounds like u joints to me.:facepalm:. Also I think my ESA quit working right.. I depressed that micro switch and it was working.. Pressed it again and it wouldn't.:facepalm::(:eek:.. Bummer.. May start some new treads


Pull the drive and inspect the U-joints, and gimbal bearing.

Your ESA is probably working. The switch or wiring is probably causing an intermittent problem.


regards,


Rick
 

Joshua Nichols

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

Pull the drive and inspect the U-joints, and gimbal bearing.

The switch or wiring is probably causing an intermittent problem

I can't stand snake oil.. They got tons of crap on the shelves now too.. I was just at the auto parts store looking at it.. There is no engine overhaul in a can... Sorry.....

Yeah it may be a wireing problem... It looks like poo poo.. Will have to drag out the multi meter or pick one up...

The gimble bearing should be good to go.. Just put one in there.. I shoulda done the u joints, but didn't.. I hate U joints.. PITA.. Also last time out we had a little got out of the channel and ran agound problem...:facepalm: I might of ran em too hard with the outdrive too high... We don't play on that river anymore:redface:
 

bruceb58

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Re: Okay now how do ya get rid of the milky colored oil after the repair???

Make sure your overstroke switch isn't being depressed. That will cause the shift switch to not cause the engine to stumble.
 

jgc123

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I came across this thread while looking for an answer of how to remove the white milky looking oil from the engine. I considered kerosene and diesel. There wasn't any milky oil in the radiator, just under the oil filler cap , and under the valve cover. And this was right after installing a new water pump, and new valve cover gasket. I drained the milky oil , and ran some older, but somewhat clean oil through it, just to displace the watery white oil. What I noticed while looking at the first batch of milky oil that came out, was that there was a sludgey residue at the bottom of the drain pan, and I thought, man, if that stuff is all over the internal engine components, I'm screwed. .....So , I tried Marvel Mystery Oil, because of it's cleaning properties. My thought was that MMO could dissolve the sludge, it would be easier to get that sludge more liquified, and out of my engine. So I put it in the engine, as instructed, and ran the engine for 5 minutes, at idle. I then waited a few minutes before draining the oil pan, and what came out was like chocolate milk, but much more liquidy than the cheap walmart oil that I also used with that flush. I then filled the engine with another batch of walmart cheap oil, and ran the engine for 15 minutes. ...... I checked the dipstick, and the oil looked clear. Not milky. I drained the oil anyways. It was darker than clear, but not milky, and not chocolately. Seems that the MMO worked for dissolving the tapioca pudding gunk, and getting it removed from the engine. Then I installed a new oil filter, and poured the Walmart oil that I had just drained, back into the motor. Ran the car for 15 minutes again. The oil was clear, like before. No milky, or chocolate looking, oil. I've never used the MMO before, but it appears to me that it worked. And it's relatively cheap. .... I'll keep on checking it, and plan on changing the oil in about 500 hundred miles, or a week, whichever comes sooner. .
 
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