Old Aluminum Boat Restore

yjanray

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Hello,

I have started restoring this old tin boat i picked up. So during my removal of the old hull paint, I found the previous owner had put a bunch of silicone in a hole in the bottom rib, and then pained over it. I have removed all of the old silicone, and was wondering whats the best way to fix this hold in the rib?

Thanks,

View attachment 168571
Here is the hole in the rib
View attachment 168570
Heres the whole thing, partially sanded down. I finished sanding the whole thing done last night.
View attachment 168569
I am going to use this to prime the whole hull before I put down an enamel. I want to finish the boat off with some spray stencil, but not sure yet, and that is a long way off.
 

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jigngrub

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

Only one of your pics showed up, post the pic of the hole again so we can see what you're dealing with.
 

yjanray

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

Only one of your pics showed up, post the pic of the hole again so we can see what you're dealing with.

Such a POS. I tried and tried to get the pics to post, and the preview showed it.

anway, heres another try....hole in rib.jpg

rust primer.JPG

hull sanded down.jpg
 

reelfishin

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

I'd repair the damaged rail either by welding in new metal or at the very least by riveting in some aluminum for a backing and reforming the surface with JB Weld or similar epoxy. Then sanding it smooth for cosmetic purposes.
To me it looks like the perfect place to use those Alumaweld sticks.

I'd skip that Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer, its meant more for ferrous metals then for aluminum. I'd prime all bare aluminum with a self etching primer and follow up with Rustoleum enamel. (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=397)
 

robert graham

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

That's quite a hole!...Maybe a full length section of aluminum angle welded in place on the outside of the hull to totally reinforce and strengthen it...could do both sides the same so hull don't pull one way in the water?...your hull would be a lot stronger and stiffer!
 

yjanray

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

I thought about replacing it. I don't have anyway to do the welding, and do not want to pay someone to weld.....

jigngrub, what would that stuff be sealed with after it is cured. I assume it is not meant to be under the waterline all the time.

Thanks for the responses, I will keep posting as I complete different stages...
 

robert graham

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

I'd worry that metal filler epoxy stuff may not stay attached to the aluminum hull, which will be flexing as you motor along. I wonder if you could buy a small electric welder enough to fix it right? About a 1/2" or 3/4" diameter aluminum rod laid on the Inside of that rib the length of the hole, then welded or epoxied in place would offer some strength.
 

jigngrub

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

jigngrub, what would that stuff be sealed with after it is cured. I assume it is not meant to be under the waterline all the time.

The aluminum filler would be sealed with your primer and top coat paint, didn't you say you wanted to paint your boat?

The specs say the filler is waterproof and with the paint I'm sure it would be good enough for your tinner.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

So I think reelfishin was saying to use these things. I think I could get my hand on a propane torch easy enough. I wonder if these sticks could fill the gap on that hole, or if I would have to get some sort of patching material? http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-8-alumiweld-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html

I don't know if they are the same rods, but sound the same as what at least 2 others have tried to repair holes & damage in above the waterline locations. Neither was satisfied w/ the results, structurally or visually. Jasoutside on 1 or another tin boat build. Islander or Jet, I don't know which.

I think that JB Weld or the USC all-metal aluminized fillers would be a much better solution. Make sure to backfill the damage, not just to skim coat the area. Backfilling should help keep the repair 'held' into the damaged area.

Overheating any of the seams near the damage may cause previously non-leaking seams to leak. Various sealer products were used in those seams, some were rubber based.
 

yjanray

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

I don't know if they are the same rods, but sound the same as what at least 2 others have tried to repair holes & damage in above the waterline locations. Neither was satisfied w/ the results, structurally or visually. Jasoutside on 1 or another tin boat build. Islander or Jet, I don't know which.

I think that JB Weld or the USC all-metal aluminized fillers would be a much better solution. Make sure to backfill the damage, not just to skim coat the area. Backfilling should help keep the repair 'held' into the damaged area.

Overheating any of the seams near the damage may cause previously non-leaking seams to leak. Various sealer products were used in those seams, some were rubber based.

Very good point. I appreciate the insight. I think after some thought, I am going to grind that hole just a little bigger at the bow end, and rough it up a bit, and cram as much of that aluminum putty in there. Then sand down the excess to make it look better.

My next step will be to check for leaks and dab some 5200 on areas where it leaks. I am looking forward to getting past this part!!!!!

Thanks for all your help
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

Drill a hole at either end of the damage, after you clean it up. Might help keep it from spreading.
 

yjanray

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

Drill a hole at either end of the damage, after you clean it up. Might help keep it from spreading.

So drill a hole and put a stopper or something in there to keep the putty in place, then patch that little hole after the big patch sets?

On another note, I am realizing that I have never worked with metal before, especially rivets. I am kind of confused on how to rivet framing aluminum framing together, and then to the hull?

How do you keep what you are wanting to rivet together in perfect place while you are drilling the pilot hole for the rivet? I guess once that first rivet is in place, it will stay together a little easier? I understand how to replace a rivet in something that is already attached to the hull, that is easy... its just the riveting new pieces (i.e. the deck fame I want to build) to the hull and together that has me wondering.


Thanks for the help.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

I'm on my cell, but drill a small just at the end of a crack. It's stress relief, and spreads the tension so it's less likely to have the crack continue to lengthen after you fill it. You'll fill the hole you drill as well, when you fill the crack...

I'll have to wait on the deck framing, for now.... An overhead shot of the interior & a rough layout of what you have planned would help though. If you can use MS Paint (comes w/ all MS Window's based computers) or other graphic program w/ some lines &/or locations of what you want to build/install.
 

yjanray

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

Thanks! It is not huge rush right, now, as I have plenty of work with this hole and then exterior painting and sealing, before I am ready to move to the fun stuff....But when I do, I will get something planned out.

Thanks again for the help!
 

The_Kid

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

I don't know if they are the same rods, but sound the same as what at least 2 others have tried to repair holes & damage in above the waterline locations. Neither was satisfied w/ the results, structurally or visually. Jasoutside on 1 or another tin boat build. Islander or Jet, I don't know which.

I've used the HF aluminum rods on a couple of non boat projects. Visually the repair looks bad, but structurally the joint is stronger than the original metal. Here are some pictures of a T joint on some scrap 1/8" flat stock I had laying around. This was the first time I used the rods so it was a learning process.

Side 1.jpg
Side 1: Not enough heat so the rod didn't flow very well.
Side 2.jpg
Side 2: More heat and better flow, but still not a pretty joint.
Second bend.jpg
Bend test: This was the second bend. The first was toward the Vice-grip side.
Break.jpg
The break: This was after repeated bends back and forth. The original flat stock eventually broke above the joint except for the area between the green lines that didn't get enough heat so the weld failed.

The more heat the better, up to a point. To much heat and the area you are trying to repair will melt. In the projects I used the rod on, I never melted the base material, but I was always welding 1/8" or slightly heavier material.
 

yjanray

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

Keith, Thanks for that information. I always feel better about something when i see before and after pics, as well as different methods! I agree with a previous post that heating the hull up might cause other seals to break. I think my best bet is going to use that aluminum auto body filler , and it down until it forms the rib the right way, and then rough it up, prime and paint over it.....
 

robert graham

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

Good luck with the filler/patch job, but I really believe you need to reinforce/weld that hull, or the flexing may weaken your patches, etc., and you may be doing this over again, after it leaks! I have an aluminum canoe and an aluminum jon boat and the hulls do flex in rough water! But again, Good Luck!:)
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Old Aluminum Boat Restore

I may be wrong, but this:
attachment.php


Looks like a rib (chine, whichever) that has been riveted to the hull. The jagged tear (from beaching perhaps) looks like it is 'just' in/on the rib.

There doesn't appear to be any indication that the hull has been penetrated, and likely to leak from this damage. Torn out rivet, torn seam, yep, likely to leak. But I don't see anything to indicate that in the pix, nor in the description YJ has posted.
 
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