Old Johnson's

NYT

Cadet
Joined
Jul 13, 2009
Messages
14
Hi.I have a couple of old Johnson motors.One is a 1972 85hp Hydro-Electric and the other is a 1968 65hp Electric.I did a search for some posts on these motors and I get the opinion that they are to be avoided because of the electric shift lower units.A mechanic at a local marina said he would'nt put a dime into a Hydo-electric motor.The 85 is locked up and the 65 came with a boat I picked up but will rotate.I just wanted to know if it's worth putting any time and money into them or are they so complicated that I should I look for a mechanical shift motor?Thanks for your input.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Old Johnson's

Putting any amount of money into any engine will need to be your judgement call. However, the following might give you some insight of the lower unit workings of the Hydro Electric Shift units.

(Hydro Electric Shift System Explained)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

Note: The engine must be running OR have the driveshaft turning by some other means in order for the engine to shift.

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Old Johnson's

when you look up the prices for parts, your decision will be made. because you still have 40 year old motors, no matter how well they run, they are only the value $ of 40 year olds.

i just donated 3 70hp motors, to a student a Wyotech, for project motors. their repair cost was more than their value.
 
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