Old SeaKing date

[EHardgrave]

I am looking at buying an old SeaKing by Wards. I was wondering what the manufacture date is please. Model GG8960A S/N 75X670881. How hard are they to get parts? Also how long do they usually run on that little gas tank built in? Any idea what they are worth? It is attached to a 12' aluminum boat too.

 

[JB]

Re: Old SeaKing date

SeaKings with a "GG-----" model number are usually Gale-made. <br /><br />That means that they can use JohnnyRude parts once you have identified the year and what JohnnyRudes it is based on.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Old SeaKing date

Ah, that's a Gale built engine. Gale was a division of OMC (Johnson, Evinrude, Lawnboy) that built engines for rebadging by third partys. So they share a lot in common with Johnson and Evinrude engines. GG8960A is a '57 5hp, which was based off the old early 50s 5hp Johnson TN or TD series engines, but I think it has the later ignition system. Parts for those are somewhat hard to find, but not *that* bad. Generally fixing them up will require you to improvise by cutting gaskets, modifying parts, etc.<br />Those 5hp engines were very, very good and so many of them survive to this day. Since they are so common though they don't demand an 'antique' price. Figure on it being worth the same as a 60s-80s 5hp. Depending on condition of course.

 

[EHardgrave]

Re: Old SeaKing date

Thanks for the info. I had another question about the mixture of gas and oil. Has anyone ever used that Opti-2 2cycle oil for ALL 2 cycle motors. They say the one packet to a gallon mixture works for ALL 2 cycles. Any opinions about it with a reall really old motor?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Old SeaKing date

Well, back in the day that thing probably saw a diet of 30 weight non-detergent motor oil. But then again you had to pull the head every 100 hours to scrape out the carbon. <br />If it were mine, I would be running a TC-W3 rated (water cooled 2-stroke oil) oil through it at the recommended 24:1 ratio (1 quart to 6 gallons of fuel, or 40ml/l of fuel). These old engines didn't use proper oil seals or roller bearings so you need the extra volume of oil to seal em up and keep the connecting rods intact. I don't know what a packet of opti-2 would be, but I don't think it would enough to seal it up and keep the bearings happy. If it was smoking too much for me, I would try a semi or full synthetic oil, or really any premium oil as these seem to burn with less smoke then the el-cheapos.

 

[alderman]

Re: Old SeaKing date

I have a 1963 5hp SeaKing (gale) and I agree with Paul, stay with a good quality TC-W3 at 24:1 it will smoke some but not bad. Mine runs vary strong for a 5 hp and is vary reliable starts first time every time and runs great. Take care of it and it will give you many years of service.<br />Ray

 

[EHardgrave]

Re: Old SeaKing date

Any idea what the compression should be at for this motor. Also Alderman how is it to work on? Have you been able to find parts at NAPA ok? How long does that little gas tank last you? What brand of oil do you use?

 

[alderman]

Re: Old SeaKing date

WY, So far I have been able to find everything I need at NAPA, water pump parts, electral and so on. However I did go through a local dealer hear for the Carb. Kit which was identified for me by the great people hear on this forum. I wanted to make sure I got the correct float because the old one was cork. Mine uses a remote 6gal tank with the single hose, it's vary good on fuel, I would say I can run 6 to 8 hrs or longer on a full tank.<br />I have never had the need to check compression on mine it just plain runs to good to be concerned with it. I use Valvoline TC-W3, only because I can get from a local business and I always try to support the local guy rather then the big mart marts. There may be better brands, I have read a lot of post about the synthetic oils and understand there benifits, but on this old motor I think the valvoline is as good as any. I decarb mine every fall before winter storage and have never had a problem starting in the spring, it will smoke a lot the first time you run it in the spring but its over fairly fast.<br />Hope this helps, let us know how she runs.<br />Ray

 

[EHardgrave]

Re: Old SeaKing date

OK. I tried to check the compression tonight and it didn’t give any reading really. The little reset button stuck up like it was getting some. Can you not use an auto compression tester on these little motors? Did I do something wrong? Both cylinders did the same thing. The current owner offered to run it in a barrel for me to see that it does run ok. He claims it only needs a card kit.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Old SeaKing date

Hmm, that doesn't sound too good. But some questions:<br />Did you pull it over a few times before checking? <br />What is the minimum reading on the gauge (60psi+ would be good for that engine I think)?<br />Is this the push-in type compression checker or a screw in type?<br /><br />From here it sounds like the compression is awfully low. Could be stuck rings, etc, but likely needs more than a carb kit. Also, there isn't a carb kit available as such for that engine, but there's some other parts that can be modified to fit it.

 

[Suber]

Re: Old SeaKing date

Since the admirals in here know about Gales, I jsut bought a 1948-53 3 horse outboard and it runs perfect after a lot of cleaning and minor repairs. I do not however understand how to lubricate the lower drive housing? Any ideas? Thanks

 

[EHardgrave]

Re: Old SeaKing date

I think 40 is the min. on that tester. It screws in. We didn't pull it before but I did try multiple times. The motor is completely dry as in no gas, therefore no oil. Does that matter? I thought about trying the tester on my mower just make sure it is ok. We used it on my dad's outboard a few months ago and all seemed well.

 

[alderman]

Re: Old SeaKing date

Paul, would the carb. kit for WY 1957 be a lot different then the one for my 1963? I don't have a parts list for mine but someone hear on Iboats was able to give me oem part number for mine, and a local dealer had them.<br />On the compression issue I have never checked mine, when I first got the motor it had been setting for about 7 years outside hanging on the boat. I pulled both plugs and shot some TC-W3 in the cyls. and turned it over slow several times before I fired it up. Once I had it running I decarbed and changed plugs. After that there was a noticible difference in the amount of effort it took to pull the rope. Just a thought might help with Wy's.<br />Let us know how it works out.<br />Ray