OMC 115 Seaswirl/SeaSquirt TurboJet (1194 115JEERA I think..) Rebuild due to one cylinder filling with gas while cranking?

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Jul 17, 2023
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A few pics below but I have a LOT more as I read the manual and took lots of pics and notes to help with reassembly. So if you want to see something I probably have a pic of it! (Hopefully, most of you guys can read all of this on a PC and not a tiny phone screen!

I have experience rebuilding 2-stroke dirtbikes but no multi-cylinder engines. Per below the compression check seemed decent for a cold engine that hasn't seen use in some time. My problem is the lower, starboard cylinder keeps filling with gas as I crank the engine. I rebuilt the carbs so, unfortunately, a simple stuck float was causing the port side bottom cylinder (90% sure that one...) to fill with gas. At first, it started to seem like it was trying to start but as more gas was let in, it started to slow due down due to the lessening cylinder air volume. I would eventually get a hydro-lock but only when turning it by hand so I don't think any damage was done like a bent rod. It actually turns over nice and smooth and the pistons and bores (what's visible of them at this point with the crank still) in look great. So hopefully just needs rings, cleaning, and fixing the gas leak. Even the impeller and housing look great.

But I didn't want to go any farther until I thoroughly read the 5-6 pages of all the things to check when taking the crank/pistons out AND asked what to look for on here as the manual doesn't seem to even address this kind of cylinder fuel leak!

So my basic knowledge of multi-cylinder 2-stokes is that there are crank seals between each cylinder so the fueling/exhaust cycles are kept separate. I guess these are the big thick metal rings ("Seal Ring" - 319244?) that do that. (anything else?) Nothing obvious yet but again the crank/pistons are still in. I did see one very small "dent" on a ring landing that looked like it might cause a small leak. I haven't totally removed/checked the leaf valves to see all surfaces but to me they look like new. What else should I look for? I'd really like to find something bad so I feel pretty confident I fixed it!

So assuming I fix the leaking cylinder problem, I'm going to change the piston rings and I guess hone the so-far, perfect-looking cylinders(?). And maybe replace all of the gaskets and whatever else it says to in this section of the manual.

I'll probably need more but should I start by buying this seal kit on Amazon? - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VX66BM4/

Do I really need a crank screw OMC Alignment Fixture #396749 considering I hope I never have to do this again...? I know they like to sell their "special parts" but $40 for a crank screw socket I got off of Amazon for $7 is ridiculous. What OMC equivalent assembly lubes can I use?

Do I need all of these kits the manual mentions?
Powerhead Gasket Kit
Fuel Pump Repair Kit
Exhaust Filler Block Replacement Kit
Inlet HSG. Seal Kit
Flushing Kit
Impeller HSG. Seal Kit
Exhaust Filler Block Replacement Kit

Well thanks in advance for any help. I hope to be putting the engine back in by the end of the month!

James (Jim) Taylor
Maryland Heights, MO

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(As mentioned, I posted this (link below) last year before the rebuild but while I don't think much relates to the problem, some background may be useful.) (https://forums.iboats.com/threads/i...l-startup-and-troubleshooting-attempt.768708/)
 

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Chris1956

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The fuel pump is powered by crankcase pulses. If the fuel pump diaphragm leaks, the crankcase that powers it often gets raw fuel in it.
 
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Thanks so much for the reply. After writing my post I thought of a few things I should have mentioned. One of which was It seemed that the VRO (and the electric valve) was working. But I'll take it apart later today to check leaks and what not. But would it only affect one cylinder?

Does anyone happen to know what all to check as far as seals or...(?) that keep the cylinder flows separated?
 

Chris1956

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Trace the fuel pump hoses, if any, to the crankcase and see what cylinder's crankcase it affects. Some fuel pumps bolt directly to the crankcase.

The steel sealing rings on the crankshaft seal the crankcases from each other.
 
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Trace the fuel pump hoses, if any, to the crankcase and see what cylinder's crankcase it affects. Some fuel pumps bolt directly to the crankcase.

The steel sealing rings on the crankshaft seal the crankcases from each other.
Well as you can see from the pics, the engine, and therefore all hoses, have been disassembled. So at this point, I guess I'll just buy new steel sealing rings, clean up the small burr I saw on one sealing ring surface (and anything similar I might find after taking out the crank/pistons for inspection), and check all of the hoses on reassembly and hope for the best...

Maybe I didn't need to do a complete rebuild but at least I'll know the status of everything about this unknown engine.

Thanks again,

Jim
 
Joined
Jul 17, 2023
Messages
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Trace the fuel pump hoses, if any, to the crankcase and see what cylinder's crankcase it affects. Some fuel pumps bolt directly to the crankcase.

The steel sealing rings on the crankshaft seal the crankcases from each other.
Chris 1956 - Are you (or anyone on here) directly familiar with this OMC 1194 115JEERA engine? I ask as I know this SeaSwirl Jetboat is pretty rare, but the engine is pretty much the same 115 OMC 4-Cly 2-stroke OMC has been making as an outboard for may years. so I was just hoping you were familiar with this particular engine. Thanks again for the help.
Jim
 

racerone

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The engine is the common OMC crossflow.---With certain features as it comes under Coast Guard rules for ---" inboard mounted " -- engines " -All suffer from broken piston rings over time.----Top ring groove is usually damaged.----Rebuilt many of those engines.----The rod bolts use a 5/16"-12 point socket and available everywhere.
 
Joined
Jul 17, 2023
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The engine is the common OMC crossflow.---With certain features as it comes under Coast Guard rules for ---" inboard mounted " -- engines " -All suffer from broken piston rings over time.----Top ring groove is usually damaged.----Rebuilt many of those engines.----The rod bolts use a 5/16"-12 point socket and available everywhere.
OMC "Crossflow" I'll have to search for more info on that term as I don't recall ever seeing it. I'll definitely be replacing the rings and honing it too I guess(?). Yeah, I found that it was just a 5/16-12 point. Basically, it just can't be too wide to get in there but it was easy to find cheap. I bought a deepwell thinking it wouldn't matter. But the manual does say something about using a short socket. I guess it's easier to keep it straight up and down. Not sure it's worth buying (?) a shorter one let alone the "OMC Alignment Fixture #396749". I've never needed anything more than a socket and torque wrench for rod endcaps...

VRO - As I recall (seeing as it was last summer) the VRO seemed to be pumping gas and oil. But I didn't do any type of pressure/volume testing. I just started to disassemble the VRO to take a quick look at the seals/diaphragm but realized it's a pretty complex assembly so I'm waiting a bit until I have the time to do it per the manual and will post whatever I learn. As I mentioned I rebuilt the carbs which was easy but didn't help the one cylinder flooding issue.
 

racerone

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I consider the VRO as being an overpriced simple device.----Putting new rings on used pistons is a mistake in my opinion.
 
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