Omc 800 series

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Aug 12, 2013
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Ok after replacing my carb. I took the boat on Lake Erie and it would still sputter out and would cough twice. I am pretty sure it's over heating and that I need to replace the impeller and or water pump in the outdrive. My question is what is involved in taking a series 800 stringer off. I have never tried anything like this before and any help would be appreciated
 

Scott Danforth

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do you want to take just the lower off, or take the whole drive off?

what year drive?
 
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From what I see I need to pull off whole drive. According to diagrams I am seeing the water pump is behind the ball gear on the intermediate housing.
 
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southkogs

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Yes, you'll want to take the entire drive off. You'll also want a manual to help you out as you have a very expensive shift cable that's exceptionally tough to replace on there. I can't tell you how to do it as I have one of the old Electric Shift Models.

The impeller is on the bottom of the upper gear housing. You can get to it without taking the drive off, but you still have to remove the lower which involves your shift cable and makes you work upside down. Ball gears shouldn't need to be touched.
 
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okay ,

if its at the bottom of the upper gear case, is there a way to get to impeller with out messing with the expensive cable. can it be pulled up through exhaust housing
 

southkogs

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They say "yes," BUT ... you have to gingerly separate the lower from the upper and support the lower so not to stress the cable (again, I've never done just read about others doing it). Then you're pretty much working on your back starin' up into the drive.

The standard practice "best way" to do it is to yank the drive. I don't mean to scare you too much about the cable, just get a manual and walk through it carefully. You're gonna' want the step by step instructions handy. Otherwise, gettin' a Stringer drive on and off a boat is a cake walk - mine takes about 10 minutes.
 
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I am confused by the video is the whole thing removed from back of the unit? Can any one scan this material from manual and post? Bought the parts now just waiting for manual
 
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So I replaced the water pump. I took the four bolts off the exhaust housing and the lower dropped. I was careful not to stress the shift cable. My problem is getting the drive back up. Are there any tricks or is it just a matter of hitting a sweet spot?
 

southkogs

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Actually ... I dunno'. I've never dropped my lower without taking the whole thing off. :) I generally set the upper back on top of the lower, reassemble and then put it back on the boat. You're probably fighting alignment and gravity at the same time.
 

floattest

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http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...nes-outdrives/331143-omc-impeller-replacement

Not sure if the above link works or not. And I don't know why it's in the mercruiser forum. But anyways. I did it like this. But southkogs is right. It was a pain. But I've also removed my drive before and that was no picnic either. :)

It should raise up into the same position. You are sliding the splines together so you may need to rotate one shaft slightly to get it in place.

I have done this job this way and Southkogs is right its not the best way. But it does work. A couple of points.

1. The bearing and bevel gear carrier in the upper can simply fall out or slip down out of engagement with the gears once the four bolts are out and the swivel housing and pump assembly is removed. This would hinder reassembly. make sure everything goes back as it was, including shims, etc.
2. before you put it back together make sure the oring seals on the shaft is installed and a new key and grease the eff out of the splines. It will preserve your shafts.
3. don't forget the plastic spacer between the swivel housing and the lower unit. I almost lost mine. This shim is designed to help maintain a correct gap in the swiveling trunnion created by the upper cover and the swivel housing. this gap is essential for proper steering function.
​4. The big oring goes around the pump housing above the swivel housing. I've left this out before and the pump does work, but not as good.

Another thing about the OMC water pump. It's a variable pump and works differently at higher rpms. The impeller is huge and is probably not the weak link in the pump. I'm sure they go bad with neglect, but I've learned there are many other weak links in this cooling system besides the impeller. cover them all. get your motor to run cool and you'll be in dreamland and out of your nightmare. (funny handle)
 

floattest

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Just a clarification that "I forgot. I keep calling the part the swivel housing. But I think it''s the swivel bearing. It's that part that is bolted into the upper with 4 bolts and it holds the waterpump housing in place.

The swivel housing is the part on top of the lower that the swivel bearing rotates.

Someone asked earlier. Are you sure this is an overheat problem because you started the thread with a carb issue?

Anyway, hope you got it fixed.
 
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No it did not fix it it was a long shot. Boat is for sale now. I took it out Friday and it did better for longer but still did the same thing it coughed then died but this time the starter wouldn't engage. After disconnecting the main fuses I was able to get engine started but would not go above or below 2500 rpm. If any one had any ideas. So far I replaced the impeller, carburetor ,fuel pump , coil, points and condenser. Spark plug wires,
 
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