OMC electric shift, forward having trouble engaging

[jamesberry88]

Forward works at no wake speed. Lately sometimes when you accelerate the engine will just rev up. After a few tries you can ease into it and get it to go. It feels like the prop is spun, but I marked it and it doesn't appear to have changed.

Could this be broken/worn clutch spring in the lower unit?
NOTE: With boat up on lift, engine off, key on, electric shift engaged and throttle forward, I can get the prop to turn with some effort. In reverse I can not.

1975 Chris Craft 17'Lancer with OMC 307B101 (Chevy 307). Drive on back says what looks like SDX-245.

Thank you

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[kenny nunez]

Be sure that the fluid in the lower is for Electric Shift . If it has anything else it will slip, try that first.

 

[racerone]

Sounds like forward clutch spring and hub need some attention.-----Easy fix I think.

 

[jamesberry88]

This is what I used, it says for Type C. Should I be using something else? Thank you for the replies.

 

[Redrig]

When I broke a forward shift spring (twice) it would not do anything . Not a click , not a quarter turn , no movement at all .

I would check the ohms on the forward magnet

 

[kenny nunez]

The ohm reading is 4.5-6.5 on low scale. It may also be as Racer suggested, The front hub may need to be glass bead blasted or replaced and swap the rear spring for the forward one. Also a good chance that the shift cable should be replaced because most times the cable gets damaged when pulling it through the exhaust housing.
Be sure to get a genuine OMC service manual before trying to take the drive apart or you will cause even more damage.
Did the bottle say for Electric Shift?

 

[jamesberry88]

Interesting the bottle says Type C. On the back it says, including OMC Type "C". But also Certain older electric shift gearcase units require DEXRON-II (or-III) fluid. Isn't that transmission fluid?

1) Would that cause these symptoms? Think it caused damage?
2) Any recommendations on what I should be using?
3) I have a SELOC OMC shop manual. Is that good enough? Its hard to find an OEM manual for a 1975 boat, unless someone knows a good location besides eBay.
4) I measured the foward coil at 6.2 ohms and the rear at 6.3.


Thanks again for all the great knowledge and advice.

 

[Redrig]

I always used a sierra type c specifically for electric shift units . I have seen that type of lube you are using at my oreilly ,Never used it.

I used a seloc to tear into my electric lower to replace a forward spring , it worked ( along with a few iboats threads) to get me through it. Try to locate a real manual , selocs are full of misinformation and very generic info.

The only special tools needed are a big arse set of snap ring pliers and a way to hold the vertical shaft in the lower while you torque the nut to specs. A very nice old timer locally just let me borrow the OEM socket for a few days .

But if I were you , before I tore into that lower I would try a lube that is specifically for electric shift lowers , it could be that lube giving you problems . Try the easy stuff first , cuz your magnets are within specs as Kenny pointed out

 

[racerone]

The fix is to repair the hub and spring.-----Oil is not the problem here.------You may find information in the secret archives on this site ( Johnson / Evinrude ) on what to do !----Easy fix on my work bench.

 

[kenny nunez]

If this is a salt water drive be prepared to break a few bolts, especially the ones that mount the swivel bearing. And of course the ones that mount the exhaust housing to the lower. You will need a torch, 1/4” 20 bottoming tap, 5/16” bottoming tap and 3/8” bottoming tap to clear the threads. Do not try to pull the reverse coil out until the wires under the swivel bearing are dis connected then with a hooked scribe gently pull the reverse coil wire out before removing the large snap ring as Redrig mentioned. That pinion nut torques to 100lbs you will need a tool that will grip the splines. An old water pump shaft and a pipe wrench will do the job.