OMC electric shift question.

[Dsawyer]

I’ve recently completed some repairs on my lower unit, once reinstalled should the prop shaft spin freely while in neutral? Mine does not but that seems normal because when I had it off and I would spin the prop shaft the coupler on top would also spin so once it’s matted to the intermediate housing I would be spinning the whole motor so that why it doesn’t spin freely.

 

[southkogs]

In neutral your prop on an electric shift should spin free. If you can spin the prop and that drive shaft spins, you've engaged a gear and something is wrong.

On a Stringer, your upper gear case is always turning when the engine is on. So that drive shaft is moving. You engage the prop shaft when you shift into a gear (F or R). If neither gear is engaged, the prop shaft spins free.

 

[kenny nunez]

Man you really got me scratching my head. You have to have something wrong for that to happen. You need to take that gear housing apart and go over your work. Those gears have to spin free on the respective hubs. Are you sure that the spacer on the prop shaft did not get left out?

 

[Dsawyer]

https://youtu.be/iGdEh5q1NeY

Pretty sure I put the spacer back in....is there a way to put it in the wrong spot?? Looks like the Newley sealed lower is coming off. ***In the video you can here the coils working but as soon as I crank it over the shaft starts moving. Also sounds a bit rough but I think that could be the magnetic pickups bouncing off the gears...no oil in the lower yet.

 

[jimmbo]

You didn't replace the shift switch in the control box did you?

 

[Scott Danforth]

check the 3-piecs vertical drive shaft.....they fail where they spline together

 

[Dsawyer]

I replaced the entire control binnacle.....the new switch works.

 

[Dsawyer]

https://youtu.be/d4t3HeQCopw

this is with no power applied.

 

[Redrig]

Yup something is messed up . I just went and checked my spare lower and I could twist one and other shaft didn't move.

somehow one of your slinky's is grabbing without power . No clue how that could happen

Is there resistance though ? Cuz my prop will slowly spin when in nuetral , it doesn't move the boat or anything , maybe one revolution every ten seconds . I think that's just from the friction of everything in there spinning .

Is yours actually grabbing ?

 

[Dsawyer]

The reverse gear was completely rusted to the drive shaft where the 40 needle bearings are. Took it all apart, cleaned, resealed and now it works as intended. Man I can’t believe I didn’t notice that when I had the whole thing apart to change the coil. Thanks for the comments!

 

[Dsawyer]

https://youtu.be/iGdEh5q1NeY

So I was watching the video I took at work and I noticed a knocking noise coming from the engine. You can hear it best towards the end of the video. I don’t remember hearing it when I was taking the video but I was so focused on the drive that I probably just wasn’t paying attention. What do you guys think? Kinda sounds like rod knock in the video but I think I would have noticed that noise because it’s pretty distinct. Maybe an exhaust leak?

 

[Bondo]

What do you guys think?

Ayuh,..... Don't know about the knockin', but did notice a couple other things,.....

Runnin' a stringer with the drive Up, tears the 'ell outa the ball gears,.....
'n, with the drain plugs outa the motor, 'n exhaust manifolds doesn't allow the motor to properly fill, 'n circulate,......

The drain is outa the starboard side manifold, as seen in yer video,.....

 

[kenny nunez]

The noise sounds like a loose rocker arm. You may have a rocker arm stud that has pulled on account a partially stuck valve.pull the left valve cover first then look for a loose rocker arm. If you find one get a brass punch and very carefully drive it back down with a suitable hammer. Turn the engine over a few times to see if the stud does not try to pull again. Sometimes the stud boss has to be drilled into the stud to hold it in place with a steel pin.

 

[Dsawyer]

The noise sounds like a loose rocker arm. You may have a rocker arm stud that has pulled on account a partially stuck valve.pull the left valve cover first then look for a loose rocker arm. If you find one get a brass punch and very carefully drive it back down with a suitable hammer. Turn the engine over a few times to see if the stud does not try to pull again. Sometimes the stud boss has to be drilled into the stud to hold it in place with a steel pin.

Wouldn’t that produce an irregular knocking? This seemed to match the engine cycle. Either way it easy enough to check for....thanks for the recommendation.

 

[Dsawyer]

Took the boat out this Saturday and had overheating issues. Engine got hot enough to melt the rubber exhaust couplings and possibly cracked one of the risers not good! Weird thing was the boat would run fine at cruising speed and maintain a temp of about 180 but when idling around the dock is when I ran into issues. Took the lower and upper off and inspected the water pump, it’s fine and looks brand new so I greased it and reinstalled it. Also replaced the thermostat. When I was looking at the manual I noticed the garden hose port has a cover to close it off. I do not have one in mine, could this be the cause of my problems?

 

[jimmbo]

That garden hose port is on the passage for getting water from the outdrive to the engine. if open a lot of, if not all of the water being pumped by the raw water pump will not be going to the engine.

 

[southkogs]

Yup ^^^^^ that's a possibility for sure.

But, the way it's cooling at high speed and not a low speed is still feeling like the impeller. Make sure you've got the key in the impeller shaft, the housing is sealed according to the manual and that your swivel bearing is greased (if the swivel isn't greased, exhaust gases can cause you to overheat).

Does the impeller just look new, or did you actually purchase a new one and replace it?

 

[kenny nunez]

Most likely going on plane fed enough water in spite of the cap not on the flush out nipple.
However the damage is done. B.O.A.T. “Break Out Another Thousand”. Hopefully you did not hurt the engine, and just the manifolds.

 

[Dsawyer]

Fingers crossed I didn't do damage to the motor. I did start it after it cooled off and it sounded ok. I was told by the gentleman I bought the boat from that he changed the impeller, but I did check just to make sure and it is new. Put some new grease on it and reinstalled. The manifolds are fine just the riser elbow had a crack. Found one in ebay for $60 and ordered new rubber couplers from west marine for about $80 so if that’s all that needs replaced I dodged a bullet. Next time out I will pull the hose off the thermostat housing to make sure the impeller is doing it’s job. Additionally, I pulled the manifolds off, cleaned those up best I could and ordered new gaskets. Hopefully this does the trick, can’t believe a $2 part caused all of this!

 

[Dsawyer]

Yup ^^^^^ that's a possibility for sure.

But, the way it's cooling at high speed and not a low speed is still feeling like the impeller. Make sure you've got the key in the impeller shaft, the housing is sealed according to the manual and that your swivel bearing is greased (if the swivel isn't greased, exhaust gases can cause you to overheat).

Does the impeller just look new, or did you actually purchase a new one and replace it?

Swivel bearing?? Is that the same as the swivel housing with the two grease ports on the front? How do I grease the swivel bearing?