studdy05
Petty Officer 3rd Class
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2008
- Messages
- 81
Re: OMC Stringer upper pinion shaft
My number 8 above is highly related to your last question.
You need to be as close to 500 to 550 RPMS as you can for the IDEAL shift to keep the grinding out from what I have experienced. 700 is just too dern high. I will grind at that every time and I cringe.
The cut out switches and nominal neutral adjustments do one big thing and one minor thing. The big thing is keeping it from starting in gear. The other thing is keeping you from trying to shift with too high an RPM. One is safety, the other is protection.
For that, you give up a ton of flexability and get a ton of grief with adjustments just like you mentioned, that are largely due to heat expansion and a design mechanism that is inherintly unstable. Again my opinion.
I am the only operator of my boat and as such took liberties with the design. ( I took all that crap off. It worked only when I didn't want it to and I am not so dumb as to start in gear.)
To that end, I am in the process of finding a different gear shifter and cable apparatus, and totally seperate my throttle from my Forward/Reverse shifting. With better RPM control, and greater shift tolerances, I should eliminate grinding all together and get a longer life from my gears.
I dont make these types of decisions lightly. I learned and studied the design back and forth, did it right a few times, and read a ton on this very site about other peoples experience, then talked to few good Captains who all said seperate throttle and shifting is the only way to go.
Not recommending you doing this, just telling you how I am approaching it. Because I know exactly where you are coming from on that issue.
My number 8 above is highly related to your last question.
You need to be as close to 500 to 550 RPMS as you can for the IDEAL shift to keep the grinding out from what I have experienced. 700 is just too dern high. I will grind at that every time and I cringe.
The cut out switches and nominal neutral adjustments do one big thing and one minor thing. The big thing is keeping it from starting in gear. The other thing is keeping you from trying to shift with too high an RPM. One is safety, the other is protection.
For that, you give up a ton of flexability and get a ton of grief with adjustments just like you mentioned, that are largely due to heat expansion and a design mechanism that is inherintly unstable. Again my opinion.
I am the only operator of my boat and as such took liberties with the design. ( I took all that crap off. It worked only when I didn't want it to and I am not so dumb as to start in gear.)
To that end, I am in the process of finding a different gear shifter and cable apparatus, and totally seperate my throttle from my Forward/Reverse shifting. With better RPM control, and greater shift tolerances, I should eliminate grinding all together and get a longer life from my gears.
I dont make these types of decisions lightly. I learned and studied the design back and forth, did it right a few times, and read a ton on this very site about other peoples experience, then talked to few good Captains who all said seperate throttle and shifting is the only way to go.
Not recommending you doing this, just telling you how I am approaching it. Because I know exactly where you are coming from on that issue.