Re: outboard wiring - no signal from boat
Power for the accessories is usually independent of the engine wiring, except of course for "switched" accessories (only work with the key on), including but not limited to gauges. Horn, lights, bilge pump are probably not switched.
Tilt/trim power might be in the same harness with the motor wiring, or in a separate harness, and probably doesn't run through the boat's fuse box. It'll have a couple relays and most likely a circuit breaker located on the tilt unit.
Spark plugs are completely independent of the starter motor; when you turn the key to "start" it should engage and spin the flywheel regardless.
If nothing happens, not even a "click" from the starter solenoid, try the electric choke - if you don't hear it "click" either, then you aren't getting power through the engine wiring harness. It'll have to be that fuse, or the keyswitch, or a wiring fault.
If the choke solenoid engages but the starter doesn't, then power is getting to the helm and the fault is in the return line to the starter. That circuit includes the neutral safety switch.
Note that if you operate the starter with the spark plug wires disconnected, it's best to ground 'em to the engine block using jumper wires. An alternative way to disable spark is to just pull the emergency lanyard.
Troubleshooting the electrical is really just a process of elimination with a multimeter or voltmeter. If you don't have one, walmart has an autoranging digital multimeter for about $25; it's not the best, but good enough and is a handy gadget to have around the house. A 12V test light will do in a pinch.