Outdrive gasket pushing out

Pruno

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Oct 9, 2019
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I’ve been having an issue with the outdrive gasket pushing out by the shift pocket (Alpha). Both surfaces are nice and clean, and I try real hard to torque everything down nice and even, but it always seems to push out no matter what I do.
Reading through some old threads, someone mentioned that if the lock nuts are old and worn that could lead to over torquing them. I’m wondering if this might be my issue, I can spin the nuts on and off by hand. So, I’m going to replace them. My question is what grade nut I should get? Should I get SS, zinc, does it matter?
Also, I remember someone recommending a non OEM gasket because it was a little thicker. I used that gasket and had good luck, but for the life of me I can’t remember the brand or find the post.
 

Rick Stephens

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I bought a bunch of Tungsten Marine gaskets when I had the issue. Solved it for me. I no longer have the drive that had the issue, and the newer drive never has a problem. This leads me to think something changes on flatness and ability of the gasket to be gripped by the drive casting.
 

Rick Stephens

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Added note, just went to Tungsten Marine site and they appear to be dead ended. Sent an email as well, which bounced. Afraid that door is closed.
 

AShipShow

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The torque on the nuts isn't really gonna be any different whether or not the nylon is worn out so that sounds like bs to me... That being said, I would still replace them just for the fact that they can't vibrate loose and come off.

For the gasket, I always throw a little bit of bellows adhesive on the mating surface in the thin wall areas before I put the gasket on.. I then let it set up for a few minutes and never had any issues.
 

AShipShow

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Also, I'd go with 316 Stainless locknuts like these... Just double check tho, I can't remember if they are coarse or fine thread off the top of my head.. but I know they are 7/16 thread.
316 Stainless Locknuts
 

Bondo

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Also, I'd go with 316 Stainless locknuts like these... Just double check tho, I can't remember if they are coarse or fine thread off the top of my head.. but I know they are 7/16 thread.
316 Stainless Locknuts
Ayuh,..... Fine thread,...... The Oem nuts are chrome plated brass,....
Ssteel galls if not lubed,....
 
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Searay205

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May 27, 2018
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Bondo is right. DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL. You will create a cluster fk headache when they gall. I had same problem used the gaskets with no sealer bead and problem went away. no that you can't buy those anymore I will probably just sand the rock hard ball bearing acting seal ring flat. Other option which works very well is pull out the extruded part and use permetex ultra black and push in the gap. let it dry. Use blue painter tape on the housing if you care about appearance and take off before before it dries.
 

Pruno

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Oct 9, 2019
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Thank you all for the replies. I could see where the locking part of the nut may soak up of few lb ft of torque, but maybe not. Either way it's not going to hurt to change them out.
Just to be clear I should be getting a 7/16 fine brass lock nut.

Rick thanks for going down the rabbit hole looking for those gaskets. I may have bought the last of the stock at the end of last season.

I didn't know what galling was so I had to look that up. Strictly out of curiosity, is it the housing or the threads that gal?
 

Pruno

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I had no idea of this issue, learn something new every day….Glad I asked, Thanks!
Found this on the web for anyone else that might be interested. Obviously, I’m not an expert, so take it for what that’s worth. -

What is Thread Galling?​

Thread galling occurs during installation when pressure and friction cause bolt threads to seize to the threads of a nut or tapped hole. It is also known as "cold welding".
Once a fastener has seized up from galling it is typically impossible to remove without cutting the bolt or splitting the nut.

What Bolts Are Susceptible To Galling?​

Galling is most often seen in stainless steel (especially when using lock nuts), aluminum, and titanium. Fasteners with damaged threads and fine threads are particularly prone to galling. Hardened steel bolts, especially when zinc plated, rarely gall.
Bolt showing light thread galling after the seized nut was removed.

What Can I Do to Prevent Galling?​

Slow Down Installation Speed​

Because heat generated by friction is a contributing factor in galling, slowing down the installation speed can prevent galling. It is recommended that power tools not be used for the installation of stainless steel or other fasteners prone to galling. This is especially important when using nylon insert lock nuts as these nuts significantly increase the chance of galling.

Don't Use Bolts to Pull Joints Together​

Bolts are not designed to pull together a joint or force materials into position. Doing so drastically increases the chance of galling. The materials being bolted should already be in place so the nut can be spun down by hand until the final tightening. If necessary, use clamps to hold the joint together during bolting.

Use a Lubricant​

Special anti-seizing or anti-galling lubricants can be used to dramatically reduce the chance of galling. Examples include MRO Solutions 1000 Antiseize, Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant, Finish Line™ Anti-Seize Assembly Lube and USS Ultra Tef-Gel®.
Even a standard lubricant, such as WD-40®, can help reduce friction and prevent galling. Some nuts are available with a waxed finish to reduce the risk of galling.

Avoid Damaged or Dirty Threads​

Check for damage to the threads of each bolt, especially bolts with fine thread. You should be able to put a standard nut on a bolt by hand. If not, it may indicate dented or damaged threads.
Also note that debris in the threads of a fastener can greatly increase the chances of galling. Always use clean parts.

Use Extra Care With Lock Nuts​

Nylon insert lock nuts and, especially, prevailing torque nuts generate a large amount of friction and heat during installation. If you are experiencing galling problems, slow down installation speed or consider a different locking mechanism.

If a Fastener Begins to Bind: STOP​

If a fastener begins to bind before you are actually tightening it down, stop immediately. Wait a minute or two to allow any heat to dissipate and then back the fastener off. Inspect the threads for damage and try again with a new nut.
An anti-seize lubricant can be very effective in preventing galling.
Do not use fasteners with damaged or dirty threads.
Stainless nylon insert lock nuts are especially prone to galling.

Why Fasteners Gall​

Why Are Stainless Bolts Prone to Galling?​

Stainless, aluminum, and titanium fasteners form thin protective oxide films on their exposed surfaces that prevent corrosion. In addition, this coating reduces friction and prevents direct metal to metal contact during fastening.
The protective oxide film can be rubbed or scraped off under the pressure and movement of the fastener being tightened. When this happens these relatively soft metals come into direct contact. Friction increases and the chance of galling increases significantly.

What Is Actually Happening?​

Thread surfaces have microscopic high points that can rub together during fastening. In most cases this does not present a problem as the points slide over each other without damage.
Under certain conditions however, the surfaces will not slide past each other. The high points will then shear and lock together, greatly increasing friction and heat. As tightening continues the increased pressure results in more material being sheared off the threads. This cycle continues with even more shearing and locking until the threads are destroyed and the fastener will no longer turn in either direction.
 

AShipShow

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Fair enough.. I replaced mine with 316 stainless but I always coat the threads with permatex aviation sealant so I want worried about it.. probably best to stick with plated brass though to be safe
 

Pruno

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I searched high and low and cannot seem to find a brass 7/16-20 locknut. Both from the local hardware store, that usually has everything you could imagine, and searching the internets. Local store has chrome and ss available. Fresh water, but I'd still be concerned with chrome rusting. Should I go with one of those, or keep the brass ones with the wore out nylon?
 

Pruno

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It appears the nuts in that kit are SS. Screenshot_20210814-081509_Chrome.jpg

The nuts in the quicksilver kit are also listed as SS. Maybe one, or both kits are miss labeled?

After learning about galling my first choice would be to source brass. If I'm stuck using SS, is there anything better to lube the threads? I have marine grease, 2-4-C, aviation sealer all on hand, plus all types of oil, something else...?
 

Lou C

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Thanks for posting that article up I’m going to print it out!
On my Cobra I just coat the gasket and the sealing surfaces on the drive & transom mount with Evinrude gasket sealer and also coat the 6 studs with the same. No leaks nor difficulty getting the nuts & drive off even after 6 months in salt water.
 

Pruno

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Just to follow up with the fix for anyone else that may see this.

I put a straight edge on the outdrive mating surface and found there was a small hump by the shift pocket (measured vertically, pic is exaggerated and borrowed from Google if some one here happens to recognize it :p ). I took a flat file and brought it back to flat. No issue with the gasket pushing out.

For the nuts, I used SS as that's the only replacement I could find. I cleaned the threads well and greased them with 2-4-C. Then real slow tighten them down. One full turn, then on to the next, until it started tighten, then down to 1/4 turn until all nuts were torqued. Probably much slower than it needed to be, but that galling looks like it would not be a cheap or easy fix.
 

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AShipShow

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Yea, as long as you lube the threads and are hand tightening them, you will be fine... the only way I've ever gotten stainless parts to gall is with power tools (impact driver) with dry threads...
And as you feared, once it starts, you're done for.. You have to cut the bolt off.
 

flashback

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Yea, as long as you lube the threads and are hand tightening them, you will be fine... the only way I've ever gotten stainless parts to gall is with power tools (impact driver) with dry threads...
And as you feared, once it starts, you're done for.. You have to cut the bolt off.
I can relate to that, I recently replaced the SS wire rope on a boat lift and thought I could re-use the old clips. Wrong! When I tried to loosen them every one locked up. Had to get new clips..I'll know next time..LOL
 

AShipShow

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Not to beat a dead horse, but every supplier I can find that sells both the OEM mercruiser replacement nut and all aftermarket brands are all stainless steel... I did find that the recommended PN from mercruiser supercedes another part number so I wonder if they used to be plated brass and were changed to stainless later???
 
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