Oveheating '78 165 inline 6

tony dz

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 5, 2006
Messages
43
Ok, this has been a chronic issue for the last two season that I can't seem to correct.. engine overheats at low rpms <1500.. above that it's fine.. so far I've replaced the impellor (twice), replaced the v-belt, inpsected the (on the motor) water pump and done a couple tests. test 1) disconected the water hose from the pump (on the engine) and inserted a garden hose.. seems to flow fine from water pump through to the exhaust. Test 2) similar test by inserting a garden hose to the intake line on the outside of the boat with the outdrive off.. flow seemed fine through whole system

Things I'm suspicious of.. maybe they point to somthing.
1) the water coming out of the prop is barely warm, but the water at the "on the engine" pump is hot
2) while running, the larger hose at the pump on the engine doesn't seem to have much pressure in it.. basically I can squeeze it easliy and it doesn't feel like it's full of water, but should it? It's hot, but doesn't feel full.

Even though this pump looked fine I'm thinking about swapping it out since I'm out of ideas. Any thoughts? Any other ideas?

Also, is there an auto equivalent for this water pump?
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,480
Re: Oveheating '78 165 inline 6

thermstat and housing?
copper coupling tube in the drive has a hole in it, water pocket cover damaged and leaking. coupling hose behind gimbal housing collapsed internally.
exaust riser/manifold clogged up a bit.
 

ParallaxBill

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 27, 2006
Messages
341
Re: Oveheating '78 165 inline 6

I'm thinking the engine water pump is the same on this engine as an automotive pump, but I could be wrong. It should be cheap and easy to replace.

I have a 73 version.
 

starsnstripers

Lieutenant
Joined
Nov 30, 2007
Messages
1,330
Re: Oveheating '78 165 inline 6

The marine circulating pump is different from the automotive! It has brass bushings, shims, and impeller. If your running salt water i wouldn't advise it. If your running in fresh an auto pump will last a little longer. Are you running a closed system, half, or all raw water? Is there a heat exchanger on your system?
 

JustJason

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
5,361
Re: Oveheating '78 165 inline 6

put some clear line in place of or inline with the raw water line that comes in from the transom to the tstat housing... check to see if your pumping air
 

tony dz

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 5, 2006
Messages
43
Re: Oveheating '78 165 inline 6

forgot to mention.. replaced the thermostat too..

It's a all raw water system all fresh water.. no salt

Bt Doctur.. any tips for how to check for these? or at least narrow it down. any other mechancs tips I can try to help pinpoint?

copper coupling tube in the drive has a hole in it, water pocket cover damaged and leaking. coupling hose behind gimbal housing collapsed internally.
exaust riser/manifold clogged up a bit.
 

getinmerry

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 17, 2007
Messages
211
Re: Oveheating '78 165 inline 6

I had the same problem some years ago. It turned out that the impellers I got were a bad compound- too soft. Both impellers were Sierra. As soon as I changed it to the OEM impeller, the world was fine. I bought the two original impellers from the same store- probably the same batch.

Even though the parts look the same, they are not always compatable.

I had the exact same symptoms. The impeller vanes would collapse at low speed and not pump. Higher RPM's would make it push a higher volume (probably due to centrifical force pushing on the vanes) and the motor would cool.

Chuck
 

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
Re: Oveheating '78 165 inline 6

The marine circulating pump is different from the automotive! It has brass bushings, shims, and impeller. If your running salt water i wouldn't advise it. If your running in fresh an auto pump will last a little longer. Are you running a closed system, half, or all raw water? Is there a heat exchanger on your system?

True, Plus the rear cover on a marine water pump is usually stainless, that's what helps make it so durable, & expensive! So, if you ever replace a marine pump with an auto pump, save & switch to the stainless back cover. I found this out from the marina mechanic years ago, when replacing water pumps, it was so much cheaper, reusing my old stainless back cover.
 

Haut Medoc

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 29, 2004
Messages
10,645
Re: Oveheating '78 165 inline 6


Don't waste time with an automotive pump, period.........;)
 
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