Oxidation

[BigWeakSauce]

1974 Caravelle CIV 19B, heavy oxidation with a nice red color underneath.
I'm looking to buff her back to her former glory (my neighbors will hate it less in the driveway) but everything I'm finding on materials includes like 10 different potions, multiple polishing attachments, 5 sand papers, and 10 weeks worth of work, etc.
Someone that has done this before on a budget, can you let me know the "Must Have" materials to successfully remove oxidation, and leave out the extra components that are what I'd call "Nice to Have".
Not looking for a perfect professional looking job, just want her to look like she has been used in this decade.

 

[tpenfield]

Given that the boat is 100 years old (well maybe not quite that old . . . ) you want to consider how much gelcoat is left under the oxidized surface. I would start with a small area and maybe go with 400 or 600 grit wet sanding, then maybe switch to rubbing compound then a polishing compound. If that works out well, you can expand to the entire boat.

If you want more quick and dirty . . .

Compound the entire boat . . . then go with the Poli-Glow kit. Apply the prep solution and use a scrub pad to remove more oxidation . . . then 4-5 coats of Poliglow.

It will last a couple of years and then need a re-coat.

Been there, done that.

 

[Scott Danforth]

red boats tend to fade to pink, and by the time you sand thru that to get to red, it doesnt take long to fade back unless you go a bit deeper. many times you may find with older red boats is someone else sanded and buffed a few times already and you see fiberglass coming thru

your boat is almost 50 years old, my 31 year old red...er...pink boat needed a complete re-gel to bring the color back. I had did a sand and buff when I bought the boat in 2011 and again prior to throwing in the towel and re-gelling.

however the process is

wet sand with 320 grit, then 600 grit, then 1000 grit (for heavy oxidation, start with 180 grit)
then buff with a cutting compound. most cutting compounds will require you to wet sand to at least 800 grit.

I use two to 3 steps of cutting compound.

the first two is Aquabuff 1000 and 2000 (if the sanding did well, jump straight to the 2000)

the second or third is 3M finesse-it

 

[BigWeakSauce]

Thanks fellas, Ill start with a wet sand on the lower corner of the transom and see how we look. Boat sat for 20yrs before I got it, repowered the engine and now I need her to shine. I dont see any signs of prior buff work and where the cover protected the sides you can see what it should look like, so I should have some gel to work with but end of the day a new gel coat is the way to go. Just not there yet and want to save the neighbors some headache in the mean time.

 

[chevymaher]

Sandpaper, mequires ultra cut, buffer, Ardex ocean polymer wax. Color stripe took a week a side. White is much easier since it really only yellows a little and just got to be the same color and shine. Lot of work but real cheap.

 

[76SeaRay]

I am in the same boat (no pun intended) except mine is white so it won't end up pink... Any thoughts on using a 5 inch DA sander.???.. Thinking of attacking mine in the same condition with 1000 wet or dry (soapy wet) with the DA, then to 2000 (soapy wet) again with the DA in a localized area to see how it comes out first before going to a coarser grit (400 or 600).. Hoping that I could get it to a nice looking level without going to far down into the gel layer before using a buffing and polishing pass with a 7 inch buffer to finish.

 

[chevymaher]

No DA unless you want to burn through it, I started with 600 on a foam block. Sand it. squeegie untill it dried evenly. Then 1000 then 1500 then 3000 buff done. wax it, It is basic you see the difference and learn quick. It is fiberglass it isnt coming off without a fight. Practice on the bottom when you cant see it. very short learning curve. Once you get it just motor along till it looks new.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I am in the same boat (no pun intended) except mine is white so it won't end up pink... Any thoughts on using a 5 inch DA sander.???.. Thinking of attacking mine in the same condition with 1000 wet or dry (soapy wet) with the DA, then to 2000 (soapy wet) again with the DA in a localized area to see how it comes out first before going to a coarser grit (400 or 600).. Hoping that I could get it to a nice looking level without going to far down into the gel layer before using a buffing and polishing pass with a 7 inch buffer to finish.

I did my entire boat (in the signature) with a 6" DA and my variable speed polisher.

after gel, i hit it with 180, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, then 1000. then I switched to the variable speed polisher

2000 paper gums up too quickly and starts to add scratches back in.

No need to go beyond 1000 grit as the polish I mentioned is aproximately 1000-1200 grit. I received those recommendation from ondariver (the gel coat guru) technically you can start polishing at 800 grit

you still need the polisher, not a random orbital waxer.

 

[76SeaRay]

BigWeakSauce. I picked up a 5 inch Dewalt DA sander at Home Depot and already have a 7 inch Harbor Freight circular variable speed buffer (right angle like a grinder and not the random waxer as Scott pointed out above) for my equipment list. Had to order the 5 inch hook and loop sand paper online since the finer grits didn't seem to be carried around here.. I do remember buffing on an van paint job a few years ago that you have to be careful with the speed and pressure so as to not "heat" and "burn" the finish. I learned the hard way on that one..