Painting - The Cheap Way

[lexkyboater]

Re: Painting - The Cheap Way

Not to highjack this thread, but Tail_Gunner/FishingDan, should I roll and tip the pettit on my aluminum boat, instead of using a brush? Thunderroad, there was another guy giving me advice on using that Dupont Nason but using clearcoat with powdered pearl to restore metal flake that had gone silver where the gel coat was coming off on my other fiberglass boat. Didn't realize it was acrylic enamel and I'm impressed long-lasting adhesion is as good as it is. I would also think Valspar equipment enamel has got to be strong stuff it it's good enough for the much greater abuse it takes than marine. I've got a finish mower I may end up painting with that. Since the OP is wanting a reasonably long lasting paint job for the cheapest price, it does seem this would be best if you guys have verified it works. That's good to know for future reference. Glad to see all the good feedback. --Steve

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Re: Painting - The Cheap Way

Call Interlux and ask them for a paint suited for metal, if it was fiberglass i would say Interlux and stop there, but its metal so maybe tractor paint is the answer...

 

[thunderroad]

Re: Painting - The Cheap Way

Valspar is good stuff. They're one of the biggest paint mfgers in the world. Most of their implement paint is a synthetic enamel, which is fine. If you're gonna spray it, I'd still HIGHLY recommend using some hardener. They make it for synthetic enamels too. It REALLY makes a difference. The local Tractor Supply has it right next to the paint. If yours doesn't, most O'Reilly's sell it. Napa probably does too. It's not like hardener in body puttty or 2 part expoxies. It doesn't set up instantly or anything like that...just gives the curing process a little jump start and leaves a hard finish later. It could set mixed in the gun for 3-4 hours easy. Plenty of time to complete the project.
Good luck....let us know how it turns out. It's always good for future reference to hear what works and what doesn't.

 

[yorab]

Re: Painting - The Cheap Way

I also purchased the Valspar for my top side. I am also wondering the same thing as asianbandit. Is a primer necessary? The mfg. suggests a primer, but TSC only sells metal primer. I'm guessing that this would not be good for fiberglass. Any thoughts?

 

[thunderroad]

Re: Painting - The Cheap Way

If I were gonna use a primer, I'd get the fiberglass surface scuffed to a smooth finish, then go to an automotive paint jobber and get a quart of a no-sand primer/sealer. Most times it comes ready-to-spray. Spray it on, wait however long it says on the can, (usually 15 min or so) then paint.

I've used this stuff for years and have always gotten along great with it

http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/nason/422-23.pdf

It says for "all Nason topcoats" but I've never found any type of enamel that it didn't work well with.
just my .02

 

[asianbandit]

Re: Painting - The Cheap Way

Thanks for the information ThunderRoad..I will be painting as soon as the fiberglass work is done...I will post pics of the job once i am done

I'm assuming you're spraying the paint on...
I'm not as big a fan of primer on fiberglass as some people. Bare metal...yes, but if fiberglass is clean and scuffed up a little for adhesion, I wouldn't worry about it. If you do want to use a primer, I'd use a no-sand primer/sealer. You put it on, wait till it's dry to touch (usually 10-15 min) and paint right over it.
As for putting another coat on, I'd put on a couple light coats to get the surface sticky, then a couple heavier ones to get the depth of color. Then I'd let it dry and see what it looks like. If you like it....STOP. The only paint jobs I've ever screwed up are the ones where I thought.."that looks good, I'll bet one more coat would be killer". WRONG. Now..if it looks thin and you think you need more paint, I use the 2/2 rule. Either put on another coat within 2 hours or wait 2 days. It needs to still be wet or completely dry. If it's in between you stand a chance of a fresh coat "lifting" the finish you just put on. This looks like aligator skin and is VERY hard to sand back to smooth.
This all sounds a lot harder than it really is. Again...I can't emphasize enough about using hardener. It will make your life a whole lot easier. The paint begins to set up quicker and you can put on the necessary coats much quicker. In good drying conditions I usually put on the 2nd coat within 5 minutes of the first, the third within another 5-10 and the others at 10-15 min intervals after that. 4 should be enough. Maybe 5, depending on the color you're using and the color you're covering. The secret to a nice shine is to get plenty of paint on the vehicle and get it all on while it's still wet. If it's still a little wet, each coat blends with the previous one instead of just laying on top of it. Don't confuse wet with heavy. Just put on enough to cover. Move fairly quickly with the gun. It's a lot easier to come back and put on more than it is too sand off a sag.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.