Painting The Motor

[licketdsplit756]

Need A Good Quality Paint To Paint The Entire Motor With ? Any Sugestions

 

[Pony]

Re: Painting The Motor

I used automotive paint on mine. You can also get OEM from Tempo I believe.

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: Painting The Motor

Make sure to use zinc chromate primer or it will peel off the lower part of the engine. Tempo engine paint works well...

 

[jspringator]

Re: Painting The Motor

Where can you get OMC (Johnson) decals?

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: Painting The Motor

As Pony said, auto paint from an auto paint supplier. Acrylic enamel works well and dries fast. nymarine.ca sells supposedly authentic colors, but they're alkyd enamel. It's good paint, but takes forever and a day to dry. I'd stay away from base/clear coat. I understand it doesn't do well under water. If you don't have spray equipment, about your only choice is aerosol cans and I suppose Tempo is as good as any. Aerosol would be my last choice since they do not contain catalyst hardener.

 

[Kowaliga]

Re: Painting The Motor

I have an older mariner I want to make look better. The fiberglass covers are badly sun-damaged. The fiberglass is showing. Do I need to put something on it first before I paint?

 

[hopalong]

Re: Painting The Motor

Here is my 86 Suzuki outboard motor that I cleaned,prep,primed, and painted with single stage urethane. The decals were done for me from an ebayer who specilizes in decals and logo's. I designed the "Flats 115" script. The total cost for the decals was about $12. the p[aint about $40.00.The motor runs as cood as it looks.
PS- cleaning and prepping the surface is key for paint to bond to.

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/plsmswain/photo/294928804437886024/1

 

[Pony]

Re: Painting The Motor

There is a place on the web that specializes in Johnson/Evinrude decals called Cut N UP Vinyl.

http://www.cutnupvinyl.com/

They did my Evinrude decals for me.....very reasonably priced too.

 

[hopalong]

Re: Painting The Motor

I have an older mariner I want to make look better. The fiberglass covers are badly sun-damaged. The fiberglass is showing. Do I need to put something on it first before I paint?

Yes. I would wash the cover and wipe it down with a wax/grease remover. Then hand sand the surface w/ 220 grit. You need to buy a good high build primer surfacer. NAPA (Cross Fire paint) and automotive paint suppliers have many brands on hand. This stuff is not cheap and will need to sprayed on with a good gun. Spraying the surface with several coats of this primer surfacer with give you added primer surface to sand. It will cover the fiberglass. If the fiberglass is real porous or rough you can use a glaze filler (Evercoat makes a good filler www.evercoat.com )to skim over the fiberglass. Its not bondo! Then use the primer surfacer over the filler. Then sand with 400 grit.
Good paint types are acrylic enamel w/ hardener, polyurethane w/ hardener , or single stage urethane w hardener(PPG Omni brand). An small inexpensive spray gun HVLP type can be had at Harbor Frieght for less than $40.00

Now if you don't have all the dollars to do this type of primer paint etc, go to a marine dealer like West Marine, US Boat etc. and get a quart of Intelux Brightside polyurethane paint. You will still need to do the primer application and Interlux has a great filler primer also.
This paint you can spray it on,buuuuut you can "roll it on" with a small sponge roller, following up immediately with a very soft fine brush. The paint will float out like it was sprayed on. I would practice on a smooth surface of sort until you get the hang of it. I know guys who have even painted large boat surfaces with it and had very good results.The brand name of the paint is Interlux "Brightside" polyurethane. It comes in pts,qts., and gallons. For a boat motor cover you would need only a couple of pints. Go to www.yachtpaint.com for info etc.or www.westmarine.com
Good luck
PS Pettit paints are also good paints to roll on

 

[WaterWitch2]

Re: Painting The Motor

I do some occasional body work and use Polyprimer for high build primer. It is a catylized primer and with a good gun fills 80 grit scratches in one to two coats. I buy it from any auto paint supply store.

 

[jheron]

Re: Painting The Motor

Be sure to treat any bare aluminum with a vinegar and water mix (20%) to convert the aluminum so it doesn't oxidize and the paint sticks...

Regards Jon

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Painting The Motor

where can one get this zinc chromate primer stuff, i painted my motor and it peels off lower unit also---used automotive single stage paint over self-etching primer--works great except on lower unit.
thanks, jbjennings

 

[ticondo46]

Re: Painting The Motor

Corrosion issue - Suzuki 6 HP Year 2000

I bought a Suzuki 2-stroke brand new in the year 2000, which I use mostly between seasons when my larger boat (with a 115 HP Mercury) is out of the water. I also use this 6 HP as a tender when the big boat is in the water. Mechanically, this Suzuki motor is a gem, no complaints whatsoever. But I am a little surprised regarding its resistance to corrosion. My big Merc (a 1997 model) doesn't show the slightest sign of corrosion or paint bulging, although it stays all of July/August in salt water, and only gets a complete clean-out once pulled out for storage. On the other hand, the Suzuki, which gets a fresh-water rinse inside and out every day when I trailer it back home, tended to corrode in various parts of the shaft housing, also a bit on the shift lever etc. At first, I thought it was because the anodes were not well grounded. Checked that, but the problem remained. Nothing horrible, but enough for a stickler like me to rush to the shops and buy all the stuff required to restore it to its pristine paint condition.

I asked here and there whether there was a particular reason for this early corrosion, and I got all sorts of answers such as "what do you expect, it's only a Suzuki", to more high-tech explanations such as the following: Around the year 2000, Suzuki, like other brands, switched to water-based paints for all the environmental reasons we know. And these first-generation water-based paints were nowhere as tough as the good old chemically diulted stuff of yesteryear (my previous motor was a 5 HP Evinrude, 1987 vintage, which to this day has kept all its paint in nearly perfect condition, with no corrosion at all).

Anybody have any views on the matter?

 

[MH Hawker]

Re: Painting The Motor

A friend of mine bought a old pontoon boat with a 9.9 Yamaha on it with a very badly corroded LU . We sand blasted the areas and glassed it over and sanded it down and painted it and it held up very well for the next 5 years until he sold the boat it still looked very good.

 

[5150abf]

Re: Painting The Motor

I tdepends, are we spray bombing this or do you have a compressor and a paint gun?

Either si fine and I have done both, also you can repaint it or strip it and paint, just going over the old paint is a clean up and scuff, repainting takes hours andhours of prep, it all depands on what you want to end up with.

I took my engine apart and repainted it, stripping the old paint where it was bad and sanding it where ti was good, probably 15 hours in prep 2 hours to paint and I used a spray bomb to paint but then hit it with automotive clear and it came out really really nice, so it depends how much time you want ot put in it and the difference between spray bomb and real paint is probly $200.