I winterized my 1997 Bayliner Capri last year by removing the four plugs on the block and exhaust manifolds and removing the hoses from the thermostat housing and the lower water pump hose. I was always diligent about placing the hose clamps on the top of the intake manifold so that in the spring I remember to hook all those hoses back up before the first trip. Well...for some reason I left the lower water pump hose clamp on the hose...and subsequently missed hooking that hose back up.
Went to lake and launched the boat. It started up fine. I know I should have watched the engine run since it was first trip...shame on me. Rather than do the smart thing, I sent my 15 year old son out to the middle of the lake while I parked the truck and trailer. All the while it is pumping water into the bilge of the boat since the lower water pump hose was disconnected. My assumption is that the sea pump pumped water into the thermostat housing and water went from there to the lower pump hose and out into the bilge. If this is correct I also assume no water was circulating in the block.
The boat ran for approximately half to 3/4 hour this way before my son realized the back of the boat was full of water. He then returned to the boat dock. Motor was running at that point but the water was up to the alternator...probably close to the valve covers but I did not think to pay close enough attention to confirm that. There was over a foot of water over the floor board.
We shut it down and began pumping water out through the bilge pump (which is not on demand...have to flip a switch). To speed things up I also bailed water and may have spilled some on top of the motor in my haste.
Once water was removed from bilge the engine did not want to start. I stripped all electrical connections and sprayed with WD40 (all I had on board at the time) to include distributor cap, main wiring harness, alternator...everything I could find inside that engine compartment. After letting it bake in the sun for a bit I put all connections back together and crankled it over. It took several cranks but it finally started. I then took the boat for a quick run around the lake to heat it up. It ran great for a while but after about 15 minutes it began to get sluggish and lost a lot of power...could not even get up on a plane. I shut it down and looked inside the engine compartment and found milky oil all over the top of the engine. I then pushed the boat back to shore and loaded it on the trailer.
Mechanic has it now. He found a small crack in the lifter valley. At first he was going to replace the intake manifold gasket and call it good until I told him it ran for several minutes with no water circulating. He then decided to inspect the block and head. Insurance said they would cover this disaster but now the mechanic is concerned that when they find out it has crack in the lifter valley they will say it was a freeze situation due to not winterizing.
What do you think? Is it posible to get crack in the lifter valley from over heating or is it most definitely a freeze situation that would have been a problem even if I had remembered to connect that lower pump hose? Mechanic is p[lannig to put a rebuilt short block in and a new starter...estimate about $7,500. Boat is maybe worth 8 grand when it is running. I'll probably trade it in on a newer boat next year. None of that matters right now. I just want to get back on the water. Would be nice if insurance covers it...sigh...
Thanks for in put...Nate
Went to lake and launched the boat. It started up fine. I know I should have watched the engine run since it was first trip...shame on me. Rather than do the smart thing, I sent my 15 year old son out to the middle of the lake while I parked the truck and trailer. All the while it is pumping water into the bilge of the boat since the lower water pump hose was disconnected. My assumption is that the sea pump pumped water into the thermostat housing and water went from there to the lower pump hose and out into the bilge. If this is correct I also assume no water was circulating in the block.
The boat ran for approximately half to 3/4 hour this way before my son realized the back of the boat was full of water. He then returned to the boat dock. Motor was running at that point but the water was up to the alternator...probably close to the valve covers but I did not think to pay close enough attention to confirm that. There was over a foot of water over the floor board.
We shut it down and began pumping water out through the bilge pump (which is not on demand...have to flip a switch). To speed things up I also bailed water and may have spilled some on top of the motor in my haste.
Once water was removed from bilge the engine did not want to start. I stripped all electrical connections and sprayed with WD40 (all I had on board at the time) to include distributor cap, main wiring harness, alternator...everything I could find inside that engine compartment. After letting it bake in the sun for a bit I put all connections back together and crankled it over. It took several cranks but it finally started. I then took the boat for a quick run around the lake to heat it up. It ran great for a while but after about 15 minutes it began to get sluggish and lost a lot of power...could not even get up on a plane. I shut it down and looked inside the engine compartment and found milky oil all over the top of the engine. I then pushed the boat back to shore and loaded it on the trailer.
Mechanic has it now. He found a small crack in the lifter valley. At first he was going to replace the intake manifold gasket and call it good until I told him it ran for several minutes with no water circulating. He then decided to inspect the block and head. Insurance said they would cover this disaster but now the mechanic is concerned that when they find out it has crack in the lifter valley they will say it was a freeze situation due to not winterizing.
What do you think? Is it posible to get crack in the lifter valley from over heating or is it most definitely a freeze situation that would have been a problem even if I had remembered to connect that lower pump hose? Mechanic is p[lannig to put a rebuilt short block in and a new starter...estimate about $7,500. Boat is maybe worth 8 grand when it is running. I'll probably trade it in on a newer boat next year. None of that matters right now. I just want to get back on the water. Would be nice if insurance covers it...sigh...
Thanks for in put...Nate
